My car only shifts at 6000 rpms or at redline. the enigne light is on and the o/d light is flashing. the nuts that hold my flywheel to my toruqe converter are missing but the flywheel is still connected t is by the bolt studs on the toruqe converter and it still drives. i sheckd the speed sensor and its clean and the transmission silinoids were replaced 3 years ago but it hasnt moved sience then.
If it wont let you shift make sure you have transmission fluid, i am guess its going to be your TPS which is your throttle positioning sensor it should be located near the back of the engine, Unplug it and plug it back in,
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Well with no other info,your transmission might not be shifting. Please check fluid level and reply. Also is the check,engine light on? You may be on limp mode if it is on. Worst case you need a new transmission best case low fluid level.
Not driving a corvette? Just kidding. More details are important. How slow is your acceleration? Is it 0-60 in 8 seconds, or 20 seconds? What is redline on your car? If redline is 5K then 4000 is a good responsible shift point. If redline is 8K then shifting at 4000 is probably robbing your engine of it's torque and horsepower band. I believe the GTS model has an 8K RPM redline, the GT may be lower, but in that case, shifting at 4K is too soon for strong acceleration. Your Tachometer should have redline clearly marked. For responsible use, stay below that, maybe 10-20%. For economy stay further still, but for power you need to let the engine use it's RPMS, especially smaller and fewer cylinder engines usually don't make their power until they are half way through the RPM range and above.
The vacume hose on the vacume modulater on the trans mission is nt hooked to full engine vacume or the engine isn't making vacume.The governer will make the trans shift to second anyway at redline but it's preety hard on an old car to redline it just to find out/ It's possible that youv'e got the shift detent cable that hooks to the carb set too tight or it's stuck as if it's floored. with the cable disconnected it should shift out al the way real early as long as thirs vacume on the modulater. Gas mileage freaks that drive around slowly unhook th shift cale so the trans shifts into high gear real early. Not much for passing and acceleration but they get a little bit better gas mileage.
Transmission will never hold the engine back if it is going through the gears properly.If it gets into high gear, eventually the engine will reach "redline" if you stay into it long enough. ("redline" for any engine is the point at which it cannot run any faster without harming itself.) DO NOT confuse that with proper shift points which should happen just before you reach max torque which happens way before you reach "redline" at which point you are way past the torque peak of the engine, and making no usable torque or horsepower. An example of this is a race engine with a max rpm limit of 10,000rpm.("redline") Depending upon the torque curve (determined by compression, stroke and type of cam grind) you would likely be shifting gears at about 7500 to 8500RPM not at 10,000. Therefore, your shift points are like climbing a ladder. you get just so high and though there are more steps, you will fall off if you go there. Each time you shift, you are putting the rpms back into the usable power band, till you reach the next step, then start over again. If your trans shifts early the engine will lug and labor. shifting too late and it will quickly reach "redline" and self destruct or go "flat". In a conversion, you need to make sure that the electronics that control shift points are working within the usable torque range. OR install a manual valve body and shifter and control it like a stick shift car, using your brain as the computer and a tach to tell you where you are.
When you first start driving it usually takes atleast 4 miles to warm the transmission to operating temperature. The temp of the motor may say it is warmed up, But, the trans fluid and differential fluid only begins to warm as you drive and the parts are actually working. THe computer has sensors that keep the trans from shifting to OD until the temp is up as not to add stress to the motor until warmed properly. Hope this helps and have a good day.
With normal acceleration the 1st to second shift point should be around 2500-3000 rpm. Most of your shifts under moderate acceleration will take place at this same point or when there a light load on the transmission. Under hard acceleration the RPMs will climp higher due to increased power needs and the computer will shift when less power is needed or the RPMs climb to an unsafe speed say5000-6000rpms (depending on where yours redlines). Also going up a steep hill will raise the RPMs higher and goind down a hill will cause a faster shift at lower RPMs. These can always be altered by an individual owner by adjusting shift points, using performance parts and if you have problems (low tranny fluid/trans issues). Your trans RPMS are fine and will vary depening on how your foot accelerates. The shift pattern should be the same every time you drive slow/medium/fast/, look for changes in those patterns you will also catch a problem early.