My car is a 1995 Dodge Intrepid with a (inner hub left side) that i cannot remove from the transmission driveshaft. Using a chisel and inserting into one of the three slots on the backside of the hub - i've been able to move it a few mm. The process is slow. I need tool/technique combinations to finsh this task as I need the car to get me to and from work!
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Re: sorry for the confusion!
If you've removed the 3 bolts holding hub to spindle on the back,and nut holding shaft to hub in center then prying with 2 bars, side to side should do it, but it sounds like your not having much success. Have you tried tapping side to side, top & bottom, to keep it as straight as you can when coming out?
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There is a special tool to remove inner tie rod. You usually can rent this from a Autozone parts store. When you return the tool, they give you back 100% your money as long as you don't damage the tool.
It consists of a long pipe with a open end wrench at the end.
Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.
Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle
CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake CaliperDo not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching NutNut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering KnuckleNote: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut.NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from TransaxleWhen removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
raise you vehicle on jackstands. remove front wheel and tire.remove front caliper from steering knuckle assembly, remove rotor from hub by pulling it staright off. remove speed sensor bracket from strut assembly. remove hub and bearing to stub axle retaining nut. dislodge inner CV stub shaft retaining ringon transaxle assembly. insert small pry bar between transaxle case and inner CV joint by prying on it.remove strut assembly to steering knuckle bolts remove top of steering knuckle from strut assembly, then rotate CV assembly out of vehicle. Remove inner shaft from transaxle stub shaft grasp inner CV joint and interconnecting shaft and pull both pieces out at the same time. good luck!
take off the wheel.
remove the nut at the end of the axle.36mm socket or so.
on the lower control arm there is a castle nut with a cotter pin.take out the pin and remove the castle nut.
then with a pry bar,put pressure on the lower control arm so the ball joint is free out of the lower control arm. pull on and swing away the hub assembly until it clears the spline from the outer axle.swing the hub out of the way so the axle can be pulled out of the transmission.
tie it out of the way with a tie down cord.
using a prybar,separate the inner axle knuckle from the transmission.
there is a spring on the end of the inner spline,some are quite tight on there.
remove the axle.
installation is reverse of the above.
first the shaft is put into the transmission, then you will have to hammer it in until it "sets". use a soft material like wood on the end of the axle .do not hit the spline directly with a hammer,it will damage the splines!
make sure not to damage the transmission seal where the drive shaft goes into.you will lose a little transmission fluid and will have to top it up.once the shaft is installed,turn it and make sure it meshes proper inside the transmission. then move the hub into place over the driveshaft.tighten the axle shaft to vw torque spec.
install the lower ball joint into the control arm and tighten the castle nut to vw torque spec.and install a new cotter pin.
install the wheel nuts and torque to spec.
alot of heroes out there use a straight impact gun and that can bend rims,rotors and cause other problems.TORQUE them.they are 80lb ft for a reason, not 300 lb/ft like an air gun.a torque extension bar is perfect and an 80 lb stick is about 20 dollars.
it takes a special stick to measure the vw tranny fluid if it is an automatic.a dealer will be able to check it unless you want the vw special tool for that.
tools needed will be an impact gun,axle nut socket,torque wrench,socket set with 1/2 inch drive,36"pry bar,jack stands,and a trouble light .
it takes about half an hour to do if you do alot of them.
go slow do it right and it may take a couple hours,but you will feel good about it.
Naturally you need to remove the tire then the brake caliper. After the brake caliper is removed then you need to remove the 34mm axle nut that is inside the hub. After that is removed then you can remove the hub. Becareful not to damage the hub seal on the back or you will have to buy a new hub (100 or more). Then you need to remove the strut knuckle assembly. Once the knuckle assembly is removed then you can pull the CV axle. Take care the inner CV housing is held in place by an inner snap ring. You will probably have to pry off the inner housing. Once the axle is off then install the new axle (if you buy complete axle). Make sure if you are doing both that you take care which side you are installing. I made that mistake and double the work. Slide the new axle on the spline and make sure it is seated completely. Then put back together the reverse of removal.