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Re: ''does a new radiator need refrigerant added to it''
You need to replace the condensor, then take it to a shop to have the a/c system evacuated and recharged to purge moisture because the system was opened. That will cost around $150. You do not need to replace the receiver/dryer/suction accumulator even though they will tell you that you do.
go to car-part.com to find prices of condensor from salvage yards. Page with asterisk on it is the lowest priced part.
-------------------------------------- The Refrigerant Cycle
During stabilized conditions (air conditioning system shutdown), the refrigerant is in a vaporized state and pressures are equal throughout the system. When the A/C compressor (19703) is in operation it increases pressure on the refrigerant vapor, raising its temperature. The high-pressure and high-temperature vapor is then released into the top of the A/C condenser core (19712).
The A/C condenser core, being close to ambient temperature, causes the refrigerant vapor to condense into a liquid when heat is removed from the refrigerant by ambient air passing over the fins and tubing. The now liquid refrigerant, still at high pressure, exits from the bottom of the A/C condenser core and enters the inlet side of the A/C evaporator core orifice (19D990).
The A/C evaporator core orifice is the restriction in the refrigerant system that creates the high pressure buildup in the A/C evaporator core (19860) and separates the high and low pressure sides of the A/C system. As the liquid refrigerant leaves this restriction, its pressure and boiling point are reduced.
The liquid refrigerant is now at its lowest pressure and temperature. As it passes through the A/C evaporator core, it absorbs heat from the passenger compartment airflow passing over the plate/fin sections of the A/C evaporator core. This addition of heat causes the refrigerant to boil (convert to gas). The now cooler passenger compartment air can no longer support the same humidity level of the warmer air and this excess moisture condenses on the exterior of the evaporator coils and fins and drains outside the vehicle.
The suction accumulator/drier (19C836) is designed to remove moisture from the refrigerant and to prevent any liquid refrigerant that may not have been vaporized in the A/C evaporator core from reaching the A/C compressor. The A/C compressor is designed to pump refrigerant vapor only, as liquid refrigerant will not compress and can damage the A/C compressor.
The refrigerant cycle is now repeated with the A/C compressor again increasing the pressure and temperature of the refrigerant.
The A/C cycling switch (19E561) interrupts compressor operation before the external temperature of the A/C evaporator core gets low enough to cause the condensed water vapor (excess humidity) to turn to ice. It does this by monitoring low side line pressure. It is known that a refrigerant pressure of approximately 210 kPa (30 psi) will yield an operating temperature of 0°C (32°F). The A/C cycling switch controls system operation in an effort to maintain this temperature.
The high side line pressure is also monitored so that A/C compressor operation can be interrupted if system pressure becomes too high.
The A/C compressor pressure relief valve (19D644) will open and vent refrigerant to relieve unusually high system pressure.
Clutch Cycling Orifice Tube Type Refrigerant System
A/C charge valve port (low side)
A/C cycling switch
A/C compressor pressure relief valve
A/C pressure cut-off switch
A/C charge valve port (high side)
A/C condenser core
A/C evaporator core orifice
A/C evaporator core
Low pressure vapor
High pressure vapor
Low pressure liquid
High pressure liquid
Connect the R-134a A/C Refrigerant Center to the low- and high-pressure service gauge port valves.
Evacuate the system until the low-pressure gauge reads at least 99.4 kPa (29.5 in-Hg) (vacuum) and as close as 101.1 kPa (30 in-Hg) as possible. Continue to operate the vacuum pump for a minimum of 45 minutes.
Turn off the evacuation pump. Observe the low-pressure gauge for five minutes to make sure that the system vacuum is held. If vacuum is not held for five minutes, leak-test the system, service the leaks, and evacuate the system again.
Correctly oil match the system to verify that the correct amount of refrigerant oil is present in the system. For additional information, refer to Refrigerant Oil Adding in this section.
Charge the system with the specified weight of refrigerant and refrigerant oil.
When no more refrigerant is being drawn into the system, start the engine and select MAX A/C operation. Set the blower motor speed to maximum and allow the remaining refrigerant to be drawn into the system. Continue to add refrigerant into the system until the specified weight of R-134a has been added. Close the charging cylinder valve and allow the system to pull any remaining refrigerant from the hose. When the suction pressure drops to approximately 207 kPa (30 psi), close the charging hose valve.
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Open the container of antifreeze. Using a separate EMPTY gallon-size container, pour out HALF of the contents into the empty container, making sure not to spill any. Now, FILL the newly filled container with tap water. Fill the rest of the antifreeze with water, also. Now, you are ready to add antifreeze to your vehicle! Simply locate the radiator cap, (Don't touch it if it's hot!!) and unscrew it. Pour the desired amount of your mixed antifreeze into the radiator. Remember not to do this without proper knowledge!
Turn the heat control to max and remove radiator cap - add coolant as much as possible. Make sure overflow container is filled to correct level - then Start car and run - after the thermostat opens water level may go down some - keep adding coolant till it is totally full. Turn engine off and put radiator cap back on tight.
Depends on how much you want to add to the anti freeze already in the radiator. If you just want to add a glass full you can add it to the radiator overflow bottle (a small plastic bottle next to the radiator.)
If you're adding a lot you can add it to the radiator through the radiator cap. Do NOT do this while the radiator is hot. Wait a while for it to cool down.
Or are you going to drain all the coolant from the radiator and replace it with a new coolant? That's a little more complicated because you have to bleed the air out of the lines after you fill the radiator.
Hope this helps
What is this cap on?? Radiator or windshield washer reservoir? Something else?
If the radiator, most newer cars have a plastic bottle or tank that has a "cold" and "hot" level indicated. You should be able to see the coolant level thru the tank. You should NOT need to open the radiator cap if your car has this tank. Add a 50/50 mixture of water and coolant (of a type your car requires) up to the "cold" mark and start the car. Let it run with the heater set to HOT and fan set to HIGH. Continue adding the 50/50 mixture to maintain the coolant level to the HOT level mark on the tank as needed with the engine running. Stop when there is HOT air blowing out of the heater.
If your car does NOT have this tank, you may only open the radiator directly when the engine is COLD. Wait several hours for the engine to cool after shutting off before attempting to remove the cap.
When cold, press DOWN on the cap WHILE turning. Most caps will come off after a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn. Start the engine and set heater HOT and fan to HIGH. Continue to add a 50/50 mixture of coolant to the radiator until the heater blows HOT air. The coolant level in the radiator should be just under (1" or less) from the bottom of the radiator opening.
if you dont see radiator cap on radiator.you pour coolant in the coolant reservoir jug until coolant level stay on full cold mark.when adding coolant to coolant reservoir jug when coolant level stop dropping stay at full cold mark.you have correct amount antifreeze in radiator.
you need to replace thermostat and radiator cap.look under hood around engine compartment.look for a radiator cap near radiator,add 50/50 antifreeze and water to coolant system to bring up boiling point.pure water will cause engine run hotter because water evaporate away,remove radiator pour coolant in the radiator until coolant stop dropping in the radiator now some vechicle pour coolant in the coolant overflow jug,pour coolant until coolant level stop dropping and the coolant level stay at cold full mark.start engie let idle few minutes, watch coolant level in radiator if coolant start dropping add more coolant, when coolant level stop dropping put radiator cap back on let engine idle until both top radaitor hose and bottom coolant hose get warm turn off engine wait until it get cool then take a large rag slightly open radiator just a litle at a time to keep from getting scaled.once radiator remove add more coolant if low,put radiator cap back on start the engine let it idle watch the temp gauge if temperature gauge going hot zone stop engine wait until cool then add more coolant,keep doing this until engine stop overheating going into hot zone and coolant level stop dropping,make the coolant overflow jug coolant level stay at full cold mark, dont let jug run empty if so air will get in the coolant system causing engine to overheat.
If you don't have a radiator cap or a cap in the upper radiator hose, you have to add through the Overflow. Cavaliers are this way. It takes forever to burp the air out of them. Be careful that you don't stop before all of the air is out. An aid pocket in the cyl head will damage your engine.
4 cyl Accords have a low pressure, self purging cooling system, so no purging is needed. Add coolant (cold engine) to the normal level. Then, with the coolant tank cap closed, open the radiator cap and fill the radiator completely, close the radiator cap and run the engine for a couple of minutes. Replenish the coolant to the proper level, since it will go down after the air bubbles have been extracted at the coolant tank.