Question about 1995 Nissan Maxima

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''does a new radiator need refrigerant added to it''

My car got a new radiator put in. I added coolant, but no cold air. do i need to add refrigerant to new radiator. is there a step by step procedure.

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  • Anonymous May 14, 2009

    well my car was in an accident and basically put back together in my driveway with body parts from a similar car from the junk yard. Pretty creative, but hey it was an old car with just Texas liability on it. Anyway, the fan in front was damaged with the radiator. The guy who did it is a "street mechanic" actually pretty decent but told me I would have to replace the fan. Well, after studying the whole cooling and heating system of car a/c, apt a/c, etc. here in Houston, a necessity, I now know thanks to you guys, it was my condenser that was damaged. I can physically see the dent in the coils. Now I know the importance of those coils. Anyway, so now I probably will have some new questions. Do I need to fix a leak, or just replace the condenser . I will have to try to find one at a junk yard (theres quite a few here with pretty decent parts) to put in...or order a brand new one....ouch on cost....adult kid returning back to school fulltime and on a strict budget.

  • itslizznow May 14, 2009

    hey that was me that sent the guest problem, I didnt realize I wasn't signed in....u all are great! Now if you teach me about this condenser. That would be awesome! Thank you so much.

  • larry blais
    larry blais May 11, 2010

    When you say radiator do you mean it or are you talking about the condenser? Who did the work, why was it replaced, how many pounds of 134a have you added so far, was the unit working fine before the repair, was the system vacuumed down after repair?

  • gerry bissi May 11, 2010

    cold air comes from the condensor. It sits in front of the radiator. Radiator cools engine coolant and sends coolant to heater core.



    Freon goes through condensor and then to evapoartor.

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You need to replace the condensor, then take it to a shop to have the a/c system evacuated and recharged to purge moisture because the system was opened. That will cost around $150. You do not need to replace the receiver/dryer/suction accumulator even though they will tell you that you do.
go to car-part.com to find prices of condensor from salvage yards. Page with asterisk on it is the lowest priced part.

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The Refrigerant Cycle
During stabilized conditions (air conditioning system shutdown), the refrigerant is in a vaporized state and pressures are equal throughout the system. When the A/C compressor (19703) is in operation it increases pressure on the refrigerant vapor, raising its temperature. The high-pressure and high-temperature vapor is then released into the top of the A/C condenser core (19712).
The A/C condenser core, being close to ambient temperature, causes the refrigerant vapor to condense into a liquid when heat is removed from the refrigerant by ambient air passing over the fins and tubing. The now liquid refrigerant, still at high pressure, exits from the bottom of the A/C condenser core and enters the inlet side of the A/C evaporator core orifice (19D990).
The A/C evaporator core orifice is the restriction in the refrigerant system that creates the high pressure buildup in the A/C evaporator core (19860) and separates the high and low pressure sides of the A/C system. As the liquid refrigerant leaves this restriction, its pressure and boiling point are reduced.
The liquid refrigerant is now at its lowest pressure and temperature. As it passes through the A/C evaporator core, it absorbs heat from the passenger compartment airflow passing over the plate/fin sections of the A/C evaporator core. This addition of heat causes the refrigerant to boil (convert to gas). The now cooler passenger compartment air can no longer support the same humidity level of the warmer air and this excess moisture condenses on the exterior of the evaporator coils and fins and drains outside the vehicle.
The suction accumulator/drier (19C836) is designed to remove moisture from the refrigerant and to prevent any liquid refrigerant that may not have been vaporized in the A/C evaporator core from reaching the A/C compressor. The A/C compressor is designed to pump refrigerant vapor only, as liquid refrigerant will not compress and can damage the A/C compressor.
The refrigerant cycle is now repeated with the A/C compressor again increasing the pressure and temperature of the refrigerant.
The A/C cycling switch (19E561) interrupts compressor operation before the external temperature of the A/C evaporator core gets low enough to cause the condensed water vapor (excess humidity) to turn to ice. It does this by monitoring low side line pressure. It is known that a refrigerant pressure of approximately 210 kPa (30 psi) will yield an operating temperature of 0°C (32°F). The A/C cycling switch controls system operation in an effort to maintain this temperature.
The high side line pressure is also monitored so that A/C compressor operation can be interrupted if system pressure becomes too high.
The A/C compressor pressure relief valve (19D644) will open and vent refrigerant to relieve unusually high system pressure.
Clutch Cycling Orifice Tube Type Refrigerant System ''does a new radiator need refrigerant added to it - 75cc8eb.gif
Item Part Number Description 1 19E762 A/C charge valve port (low side) 2 19E561 A/C cycling switch 3 19C836 Suction accumulator/drier 4 19703 A/C compressor 5 19D644 A/C compressor pressure relief valve 6 19D594 A/C pressure cut-off switch 7 19E762 A/C charge valve port (high side) 8 19712 A/C condenser core 9 19D990 A/C evaporator core orifice 10 19860 A/C evaporator core 11 — Low pressure vapor 12 — High pressure vapor 13 — Low pressure liquid 14 — High pressure liquid

  1. Connect the R-134a A/C Refrigerant Center to the low- and high-pressure service gauge port valves.
  2. Evacuate the system until the low-pressure gauge reads at least 99.4 kPa (29.5 in-Hg) (vacuum) and as close as 101.1 kPa (30 in-Hg) as possible. Continue to operate the vacuum pump for a minimum of 45 minutes.
  3. Turn off the evacuation pump. Observe the low-pressure gauge for five minutes to make sure that the system vacuum is held. If vacuum is not held for five minutes, leak-test the system, service the leaks, and evacuate the system again.
  4. Correctly oil match the system to verify that the correct amount of refrigerant oil is present in the system. For additional information, refer to Refrigerant Oil Adding in this section.
  5. Charge the system with the specified weight of refrigerant and refrigerant oil.
  6. When no more refrigerant is being drawn into the system, start the engine and select MAX A/C operation. Set the blower motor speed to maximum and allow the remaining refrigerant to be drawn into the system. Continue to add refrigerant into the system until the specified weight of R-134a has been added. Close the charging cylinder valve and allow the system to pull any remaining refrigerant from the hose. When the suction pressure drops to approximately 207 kPa (30 psi), close the charging hose valve.

Posted on May 14, 2009

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No you do not need to add refridgerant to ur rad just coolant mixed half and half with water the refrigerant is for ur ac

Posted on May 14, 2009

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''does a new radiator need refrigerant added to it'' Problem


Yes you can add the refriderant now, that should make cold air blow

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