Question about 1996 Saab 900

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How do I replace the clutch in a 1996 Saab 900 SE?

My saab doesn't want to shift at all, not until I come to a complete stop and turn the car off! I'm pretty sure its the clutch that has gone out but how do I fix this issue? Do I have to drop the engine and the Trans axel?

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Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder What you describe is that you cannot disengage the clutch when you step on the pedal. This occurs if you are low on fluid or the clutch release bearing has collapsed. If the bearing is bad, it should have made noises before this. Let me know. I will check back. Moe

Posted on May 14, 2009

  • Matt Williams
    Matt Williams Feb 01, 2014

    @Moe: LOL! 1996's arn't hydraulic, they're cable. @jesse_hillia: What you NEED to do, if you haven't already, is replace the stock "self adjusting" clutch cable with a manually adjusting cable. The auto adjust type has a extensive history of failure and should be replaced before going any further with troubleshooting. What also causes very similar problems is the shift linkage, it was also a poor design that was updated in 1998, the new linkage is Saab part number: 4626321 You also need a ball stud that part of it mounts to 4626677. Had same exact problem as you, now shifts better than new.

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Just bought it to dat,2004 saab sedan,on the way home suddenly was dificult to shift then even to shift in to 1st or 2nd gear, cant fin were to check transmition fluid to see if low ?????


The manual transmission doesn't have one - just drain and fill plugs.The disptick is accessiable from underneath on the automatic. It is on the front of the box and only small and green, held in place with a 12mm bolt. Hope this helps, James Booth. It sounds to me like your clutch is going out.

May 17, 2011 | 2004 Saab 9-3

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HOW TO SHIFT TO 4 WHEEL DRIVE


Hi - Here is instruction how to do.

From N to 4H

Stop the vehicle completely, place the

transmission in "N" (Neutral) and depress

the brake pedal and the clutch pedal fully

(if equipped), then push in and turn the

switch to shift into "4H".

From 4H to 4H LOCK

You can operate the transfer switch either

when the vehicle is stopped or while the

vehicle is moving.

Position the front wheels straight ahead

and turn the switch to shift into "4H LOCK".

If the vehicle is moving, we recommend

that the speed be less than 100 km/h (60

mph) during this operation.

NOTE:

• When shifting between the transfer

switch position and the transfer gear

position is unmatched, all 4WD indicators

will blink and the buzzer will sound.

• If it is difficult to shift between "4H" and

"4H LOCK" while the vehicle is moving,

try accelerating and decelerating your

vehicle several times after turning the

transfer switch. Be sure to wait until traffic

conditions allow you to accelerate and

decelerate safety before using this procedure.

From 4H LOCK to 4L LOCK

Stop the vehicle completely, place the

transmission in "N" (Neutral) and depress

the brake pedal and the clutch pedal fully

(if equipped), then push in and turn the

switch to shift into "4L LOCK".

From 4L LOCK to 4H LOCK

Stop the vehicle completely, place the

transmission in "N" (Neutral) and depress

the brake pedal and the clutch pedal fully

(if equipped), then push in and turn the

switch to shift into "4H LOCK".

From 4H LOCK to 4H

You can operate the transfer switch either

when the vehicle is stopped or while the

vehicle is moving.

Position the front wheels straight ahead

and turn the switch to shift into "4H". If the

vehicle is moving, we recommend that the

speed be less than 100 km/h (60 mph) during

this operation.

NOTE:

• When shifting between the transfer

switch position and the transfer gear

position is unmatched, all 4WD indicators

will blink and the buzzer will sound.

• If it is difficult to shift between "4H" and

"4H LOCK" while the vehicle is moving,

try accelerating and decelerating your

vehicle several times after turning the

transfer switch. Be sure to wait until traffic

conditions allow you to accelerate and

decelerate safety before using this procedure.

From 4H to N

64J209

Stop the vehicle completely, place the

transmission in "N" (Neutral) and depress

the brake pedal and the clutch pedal fully

(if equipped), then push in and turn the

switch to the mark (1) at the left of the "N"
position, and hold the switch in this posi-

tion for 5 seconds until the "N" indicator

blinks, then turn the switch to the "N" position.

When you turn the transfer switch to the

"N" position, "N" indicator will come on with

the buzzer sound.

CAUTION

• Be sure to stop the vehicle completely

before operating the transfer

switch to shift between "N" and

"4H", or between "4H LOCK" and

"4L LOCK".

• Do not shift between "4H" and "4H

LOCK" unless the front wheels are

in the straight-ahead position and

we recommend that the vehicle

speed be less than 100 km/h (60

mph).

Do not operate the transfer switch

while tires are racing.

• Do not operate your vehicle in "4H

LOCK" or "4L LOCK" on dry, hard

surfaces.

(Continued)

CAUTION

(Continued)

• Do not operate the vehicle while a

4WD mode indicator is blinking

except when shifting between "4H"

and "4L LOCK".

If you operate the vehicle while a

4WD mode indicator is blinking, a

buzzer will sound and the transfer

will shift to "N" (Neutral) to prevent

transfer case damage.

In this case, use the following procedure.

1) Depress the clutch pedal fully (if

equipped) or shift the automatic

transmission gearshift lever to the

"N" position.

2) Turn the transfer switch to the

position previously selected.
3) Operate the transfer switch again.

Feb 01, 2011 | 2007 Suzuki Grand Vitara 4WD

1 Answer

Hard time shifting. replaced clutch slave cylinder. still shifts hard. plenty of clutch fluid.


Sometimes the slave cylinder takes a little extra bleeding to remove the air in it & until it's all gone, the clutch won't open completely, causing the problem you are describing.

If the shifting can be done between all of the gears while the engine isn't running on level ground then the forks should be ok & not bent inside the transmission and you should be able to get the car to shift properly.

I've done several of these and found that if you start by making sure the Clutch Master cylinder is full, and remember when you add fluid, try to add without aerating the fluid. Pouring down the side of a funnel is better than pouring straight into the container as fluid picks up air during the splash. Hopefully doing it this way will prevent small new air bubbles from getting back into the lines when bleeding.

Next, after having one person pump the clutch pedal quickly 3 or 4 times & continuing to hold the pedal to the floor until you've completed this phase, instead of just releasing the pressure through the bleeder valve, also push on the clutch fork/rod to go ahead & force the fluid completely out of the slave cylinder, tighten the bleeder and have the assistant slowly pump the pedal to bring the slave cylinder back into contact to where it was before you pushed it to drain it. Refill & bleed as usual a couple of times. If you don't have a good clutch pedal now with good release, you need to check the Clutch Master Cyliinder since once the bleeding is done, this is a completely automatically adjusting system. good luck

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1 Answer

Reverse not working in my 1995 saab a week after the clutch was


Standard tranny's are pretty simple. Sounds like some of the linkage came unconnected. Take it back to whoever replaced the clutch and have them repair the problem. They apparently didn't put it back together right. You have to disconnect the linkage to pull the transmission to replace the clutch.

Dec 09, 2009 | 1995 Saab 900

1 Answer

1990 saab does not shift.


try putting it into second gear WITHOUT engine running with clutch in and handbrake on then let clutch out slow still with handbrake on if you can let clutch out fully and car is not trying to move its your clutch remember keep handbrake on at all times, if it trys to move its possable your gearbox

Dec 29, 2008 | 1990 Honda Accord

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