Question about 2006 Ford Laser

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Need Valve clearance for '93 kh ford laser

Tappet is rattling and need correct valve clearance to adjust so as to reduce rattling

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  • Richard Scordino May 11, 2010

    Pretty sure you have hydraulic lifters. clearance is zero on them and may not be adjustable..in which case you need to find whatever is worn out of clearance and replace it.

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0.10 - 0.15mm inlet
0.18 - 0.23mm exhaust
but you must be carefull because the top of the valve seat becomes concave from wear, a feeler guage will not give the most accurate reading, hope i have been of some hel

Posted on May 14, 2009

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They are hydrolic lifters and are non adjustable i have two kh laser on the road

Posted on Jan 16, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hey there I need the exhaust and Intake(valve) clearance for a komatsu 300-6 please


note Perform the valve clearance check and adjustment at the engine cold state. 1.Remove all of the ignition coils. 2.Remove the cylinder head cover.
caution Turn the crankshaft always clockwise. 3.Turn the crankshaft clockwise, and align the timing mark on the exhaust camshaft sprocket against the upper face of the cylinder head as shown in Figure. Therefore, No.1 cylinder goes to the compression top dead center. 4.Using a thickness gauge, measure the valve clearance with the arrow shown in Figure. If deviated from the standard value, make note for the valve clearance.
Standard value:

    Intake valve 0.20 ± 0.03 mm (0.008 ± 0.0012 inch)
    Exhaust valve 0.30 ± 0.03 mm (0.012 ± 0.0012 inch)
5.Turn the crankshaft clockwise 360 degrees, and put the timing mark on the exhaust camshaft sprocket in position shown in Figure. Therefore, No. 4 cylinder goes to the compression top dead center. 6.Check the valve clearance with the arrow shown in Figure. In the same procedure as 4.
7.If the valve clearance is deviated from the standard value, remove the camshaft and the valve tappet. For the camshaft removal, refer to Camshaft Removal and Installation . 8.Using a micrometer, measure the thickness of the removed valve tappet. 9.Calculate the thickness of the newly installed valve tappet through the following equation.
A: thickness of newly installed valve tappet
B: thickness of removed valve tappet
C: measured valve clearance
Equation

    Intake valve: A = B + [C - 0.20 mm (0.008 inch)]
    Exhaust valve: A = B + [C - 0.30 mm (0.012 inch)] note The valve tappet ranges 3,000 - 3,690 mm (0.1181 - 0.1453 inch) and has 47 types per 0.015 mm (0.0006 inch). The thickness below a decimal point is stamped on the reverse side of the valve tappet. 10.Install the valve tappet selected through the procedure 9, and put the camshaft in position. For the camshaft installation, refer to Camshaft Removal and Installation .
    11.After installing the timing chain, measure the valve clearance using the procedure 3 to 6. Confirm the clearance is within the standard value.
    caution Completely remove all the old FIPG, which might be remaining among the components. 12.After completely removing the liquid gasket adhering on the timing chain case, cylinder block and cylinder head, degrease them with white gasoline.
    caution The cylinder head cover should be installed within 3 minutes of applying liquid gasket.
13.Apply a 4 mm bead of liquid gasket as illustrated.
Specified sealant:
    THREE BOND 1217G or equivalent
14. Install the cylinder head cover and tighten the tightening bolts using the following procedures.
(1) Temporarily tighten to the following torque in order shown in the illustration.
Tightening torque: 3.0 ± 1.0 N·m (27 ± 8 in-lb)(2) Tighten to the specified torque in order shown in the illustration.
Specified torque: 5.5 ± 0.5 N·m (49 ± 4 in-lb)15.Install the ignition coils.

Jan 23, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to adjust tappet clearaNCE OF FORD RANGER 12 VALVE


Unless the is a modified engine, there is no setting on the valve clearance. It has hydraulic valve lifters and they don't require any setting of the valve tappets.If they are making noise when it is running the you have a bad valve lifter. Unless you can get some kind of lubricant to add to the oil that will clean the lifters, you may have to install new ones.

May 31, 2015 | Ford Ranger Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Kia sorento 2012 produce sound look like power steering problem and it gets louder when ever I acceleration gear, so I took belt out and start the engin with no belt I found that sound was in engin!!


If its a knocking sound:

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 15, 2013 | Kia Sorento Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Makes knocking noise that sound like something is loos banging only when jeep warms up and only in gear


TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE NOISES
A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 07, 2013 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Making knocking sound


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

V6 knocking noise


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Valve Clearances inlet and exhaust


j24b engine D.O.H.C.
U.S.A?
open hood , look up. see white sticker, see clearances.?
off online F.S.M
Valve clearance specification when cold :
59 to 77deg F or 15 to 25deg C (engine temps)
Intake: 0.0063 to 0.0094 inch (0.16 to 0.24mm)
Exhaust: 0.0123to 0.0153 inch (0.31to 0.39mm)
you must remove the bucket,tappet , to change lash.
MIKE IT (that means a micrometer)
then buy shims or new buckets to fit. (generic answer)
the book says buy correct tappet after measuring, yours.
and it's out of range, and doing the math first.

that is it.

May 05, 2013 | 2010 Suzuki Kizashi

1 Answer

Valve clearence settings mazda protege 2003


This is for a non turbo2_24_2012_5_45_49_am.gifNew adjustment shim =Removed shim thickness+ measured valve clearance- STANDARD VALVE CLEARANCE (0.26 mm or 0.010 inch)

Feb 24, 2012 | Mazda Protege Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Wat is valve clearance on ford ranger 2002


If you have a 2.3L engine the tappet to valve clearances are:

Intake = 0.22 - 0.28 mm (0.008 - 0.011 in)
Exhaust = 0.27 - 0.33 mm (0.010 - 0.013 in)

If you have either the 3.0L or 4.0L, there are no adjustments because they use hydraulic lifters.

Nov 12, 2010 | 2002 Ford Ranger Regular Cab

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