Question about 1988 Ford Mustang

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How do you get the external linkage arm off an aod transmission. The tranny I am replacing tthe arm sticks up. The one I am putting back in the control arm sticks down below the pan. Do I have to take the valve body off and do it inside the tranny. Thanks

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Just guessing that you have a 5.0 but if not, please let me know....this is for an AOD Tranny removal for an 88 Mustang 5.0L:

Automatic Overdrive (AOD) Transmission

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally, remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With the fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  3. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
  4. Remove the converter–to–flywheel attaching nuts. place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  5. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolts, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  6. Disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  7. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor. Disconnect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.
  8. Remove the rear mount–to–crossmember attaching bolts and the two crossmember–to–frame attaching bolts.
  9. Remove the two engine rear support–to–extension housing attaching bolts.
  10. Disconnect the TV linkage rod from the transmission TV lever. Disconnect the manual rod from the transmission manual lever at the transmission.
  11. Remove the two bolts securing the bellcrank bracket to the converter housing.
  12. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack to provide clearance to remove the crossmember. Remove the rear mount from the crossmember and remove the crossmember from the side supports.
  13. Lower the transmission to gain access to the oil cooler lines.
  14. Disconnect each oil line from the fittings on the transmission.
  15. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  16. Remove the bolt that secures the transmission fluid filler tube to the cylinder block. Lift the filler tube and the dipstick from the transmission.
  17. Secure the transmission to the jack with the chain.
  18. Remove the converter housing–to–cylinder block attaching bolts.
  19. Carefully move the transmission and converter assembly away from the engine and, at the same time, lower the jack to clear the underside of the vehicle.
  20. Remove the converter and mount the transmission in a holding fixture. To install:
  21. Tighten the converter drain plug to 20–28 ft. lbs. (27–38 Nm).
  22. Position the converter on the transmission, making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear by rotating the converter.
  23. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission to the jack with a chain.
  24. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with the holes in the flywheel. NOTE: Be sure to lubricate the pilot bushing.
  25. Align the yellow balancing marks on converter and flywheel on models with the 8–302 engine.
  26. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  27. Install and tighten the converter housing–to–engine attaching bolts to 40–50 ft. lbs. (54–67 Nm). Make sure that the vacuum tube retaining clips are properly positioned.
  28. Remove the safety chain from around the transmission.
  29. Install a new O–ring on the lower end of the transmission filler tube. Insert the tube in the transmission case and secure the tube to the engine with the attaching bolts.
  30. Connect the speedometer cable to the extension housing.
  31. Connect the oil cooler lines to the right side of the transmission case.
  32. Position the crossmember on the side supports. Position the rear mount on the crossmember and install the attaching bolt and nut.
  33. Secure the engine rear support to the extension housing and tighten the bolts to 35–40 ft. lbs. (47–54 Nm).
  34. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
  35. Secure the crossmember to the side supports with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 35–40 ft. lbs. (47–54 Nm).
  36. Position the bellcrank to the converter housing and install the two attaching bolts.
  37. Connect the TV linkage rod to the transmission TV lever. Connect the manual linkage rod to the manual lever at the transmission.
  38. Secure the converter–to–flywheel attaching nuts and tighten them to 20–30 ft. lbs. (27–40 Nm).
  39. Install the converter housing access cover and secure it with the attaching bolts.
  40. Secure the starter motor in place with the attaching bolts. Connect the cable to the terminal on the starter. Connect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.
  41. Connect the driveshaft to the rear axle.
  42. Adjust the shift linkage as required.
  43. Adjust throttle linkage.
  44. Lower the vehicle.
  45. Fill the transmission to the correct level with Dexron® II or Mercon® fluid. Start the engine and shift the transmission to all ranges, then recheck the fluid level.

Posted on May 14, 2009

  • Greg Bernett
    Greg Bernett May 14, 2009

    Please let me know if this helps and if so please leave a rating.

    If this doesn't help, please let me know if it is for an 88 Mustang...and what size motor so I can post the correct procedures for you.


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Im working on the same problem myself I know you have to drop the pan and pull a small roll pin out of the case with a pair of side cutters. I have also read that the valve body has to be removed. I can see a large nut on the saft on the inside of the case that probably will need to be removed also. On the upside I am 95 percent sure it can be done without purchasing aftermarket/ other parts. Though I would suggest replacing the shaft seal while you have everything apart. As a general rule the old one can not be reused and new ones are cheap.

Posted on Mar 17, 2012


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: How do you get the external linkage arm off an aod

Yes you will have to remove the valve body and do it on the inside,there is a nut and a spring on the inside of the shaft.

Posted on May 14, 2009

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