Question about 2001 Honda Civic

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2001 Civic SI (EX american) remote lock problem

Ok so My alarm and locks were working perfectly. But now my drivers side won't lock or unlock with the remote. The passenger side is fine. I took the door panel and all that off to take a look to see if something came loose or a wire got cut and shorted out but everything seems fine. I found the two "plug ins" (not sure what to actually call them) that control the locks and they're both plugged in and all wires are fine. Any help appreciated :)

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  • kylemauchner May 14, 2009

    Battery - No I haven't but I have two remotes and it's the exact same result

    Door Switch - No it will not. But when I put my hand on the top connector I can feel it twitch when I try and use the remote. So it's like its trying but somethings not letting it move. I've tried to look for anything "off" but theres like next to no room. I have to shove my head IN the door to even see a little bit of the whole device.

  • kylemauchner May 14, 2009

    not second guessing your judgement by any means here.

    But the switch works on the passengerside door, so would that not mean it works? as in delivers the intended 12 V?

  • kylemauchner May 14, 2009

    Do you have any idea of where I could find the "brain" of the alarm?

    and you said they're on a 20 pin above the drivers kick... might sound like an idiot here but could you clarify "kick"

  • kylemauchner May 14, 2009

    If the doorlock switch on the master switch works

    Thats where you lost me. Try and think as dumb as possible here haha. If your reffering to the master switch being the switch thats by the door handle, then yes, it works the P/S just fine and WANTS to work the D/S but theres something stoping it. Like I can even feel it trying to work. And where exactly is the solenoid? I'll get you a reading tommorow.

  • kylemauchner May 15, 2009

    So I'm looking to replace the whole switch?

  • kylemauchner May 15, 2009

    ah I see. Ok so I just took a look, any tips as to how the hell to get in there? like I cant see anything and I cant work in that small place.

  • kylemauchner May 15, 2009

    Awesome. but im kinda skeptical. It says this:

    Second, if the fuses are fine, after you have the door panel removed, make sure all the rods are connected. If they are, the last thing you can do is put your ear up to the corner of the door, not the corner with the speaker, the other corner and flip the lock/unlock button and see if you can here your actuator. Usually it should buzz and if it doesnt, then your actuator is dead.

    Now I hear a noise, not so much a buzz but a click. It's definatly from the area hes talking about. Should it be a distinct buzz?

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 11, 2010

    i think i may have misread an earlier post of yours - I asked if the passenger door lock works with the master switch.

    You said the switch works on the passenger door.

    If the doorlock switch on the master switch works - there is 12V being delivered to the actuator solenoid on the D/S.

    If you verify 12V at the solenoid (or the wires going to the solenoid - the solenoid has failed.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 11, 2010

    kick panel.

    you should find the brain for the alarm zip-tied or dangling near the steering column.

    Remove the plastic panel above the pedals to access the area.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 11, 2010

    yes - if the switch on the P/S works - the actuator is seeing 12V

    you will need to locate the brain of the alarm and check the wires for the door lock.

    many installers use quick taps that actually end up severing the wire.

    Your door switch wires are wht/blue with silver dots and white/green with silver dots.

    These are On a 20-pin gray connector above driver's kick

    Proper installation - however should put the locks on a relay because these wires require up to 750 milliamps to activate. Some products do not have strong enough doorlock outputs for this. You have to install relays to provide a stronger ground.

    Look for wires from the brain to these wires and check the connection isnt loose or disconnected.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 11, 2010

    check for 12VDC at the door switch and let me know your findings.

    there should be 12V all the time... and 12V on either direction when the button is presssed.

  • Randy Hough
    Randy Hough May 11, 2010

    Have you replace the batteries in the remote?

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 11, 2010

    will the lock operate with the door switch??



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OK - the master switch is the switch panel on the drivers door that controls every lock and window of the car.
If you are pressing LOCK and all the doors LOCK except the driver's door - the Locking Actuator's Solonoid has failed.
You cannot replace just the solenoid - the entire thing is replaced as a unit.
It looks similar to THIS....
2001 Civic SI (EX american) remote lock problem - 78d9067.jpg 6343dcf.jpg
Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on May 14, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 15, 2009

    No - the locking Solenoid/actuator assembly is in the door...

    sorry - fixya wasnt accepting pics earlier...

    here they are again...

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 15, 2009

    you have the door panel off - so the hard work is done :D

    SEE THIS GUIDE for step by steps.

    Thanks for using FixYa!!

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 16, 2009

    no - the buzz is barely audible. sounds like electric current going over a solenoid LOL.

    The pulsing you are describing is the solenoid no longer being strong enough to push the lever.

    Can you move it by hand? The rod.

    if you want to test the solonoid for proper operation - use a cordless drill battery and cut the wires to the solenoid. Put 1 on + and one on - and it will go in one direction... and swap the wires to go back.

    This is a direct line to the solenoid - if it doesnt work - you know the solenoid has failed.



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