Question about 2002 Mazda Protege
I bought a new head but the 2 cams are not at top dead center.
without belt how do i make sure that the cams are at top dead center.
Think you have to put a flat bar across the back of the cam shafts same as the old ZETEC ford motors. Failing that are the vernier pullies marked with eithr O T or do they have a - or a . that line up with a position on the end of the cylinder head.
Posted on May 12, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
First pull the timing belt tensioner then slip the belt off the cam gears. You then need to find TDC (Top dead center). 3 ways to find TDC 1) There are marks on the crank pulley align them for TDC. 2) Remove timing cover and use crank gear mark seen in link below 3) Put the dip stick in cylinder 1 and turn engine until dip stick stops going up. After finding TDC align cam gear marks seen in link below. Now make sure both cam and crank stay in position and slip timing belt back on (you can move the cam gear to get the belt on but make sure the marks are aligned after the belt is on). Last tighten the belt tensioner, I usually use my finger or an extension to get some more tension on the belt. You might have to remove engine mount bracket makes life much easier as the front cover section is TIGHT !!!. Turn engine a few times to make sure you have compression and engine turns without getting stuck. See link below good luck.
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13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.
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