Im have a 40 watt fuse that blows when i start my truck occasiona
It doesnt happen every time but on occasion when i turn the key to start my truck i blow a 40 watt fuse. today it has happen more than usual. its under the hood in the fuse relay box. i have all power otherwise,radio, gauges,windows,lights,inside and out,etc...its just the ignition
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: im have a 40 watt fuse that blows when i start my...
It could be either the ignition switch,clutch safety switch(if applicacle)or the starter solenoid,I'm including the circuit diagram for you,one of the 2 or three if it's manual trans has short,if the fuse is blowing as soon as you turn the key on(not engaging the starter)it will be in the switch itself or the clutch safety switch.If it happens when you go to engage the starter it's most likely the solenoid.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Pull ALL THE OTHER FUSES before installing another 40 amp and turn on the key,then install one at a time until you hit the circuit that is shorted and blowing the fuse.Now you can trace that circuit for problems.
Any applicable trouble codes? Several systems get voltage off that same fuse. oxygen sensors-- canister purge solenoid--ac compressor relay--imrc, intake manifold runner control, has to do with induction-- breathing. And tranny control.
If it blows as soon as the key is turned on, maybe you can narrow it down by unplugging each system one at a time? That may not be conclusive, any system you unplug, there will be less amp draw on the fuse. Just a thought.
What fuse's ? Ignition , PCM , ? Won't start how ? explain - when you turn key to the start position does any happen ? if nothing happens this is referred to as a no crank - no start , now if the engine turns over but doesn't start , this is referred to as a crank - no start condition. So which does your vehicle have ?
It will help if you can identify the 40 Amp fuse that is being toasted when the key is turned.
I looked briefly at a fusebox diagram and found 3 circuits protected by a 40 Amp fuse. The Lamp circuit protects several circuits which have smaller rated fuses on each separate wire. The 40 Amp protection seems to be a safeguard if all the smaller circuits are active in total. Turning off the automatic headlights, should reduce power drain.
The next circuit is the Rear window defroster. Can easily pull 40 Amps, but once the 40 Amp fuse breaks, it should have no effect on the engine.
The last circuit, on the cars with Trailer Tow or Police package has a
40 Amp fuse on the Battery charge Relay. This is a remote possibility. But the engine should be able to run without an Alternator for several minutes using Battery power.
Have them check the fuel pressure. The Inertia switch could have tripped while the car was being repaired. It does not explain the wiring short, but can explain the no start condition.
Again, if the same 40 Amp circuit is overloading, identify the circuit with the fuse box diagram.
This means you have a dead short, you will need to look around engine area for bad wiring or component, you will need to start disconnecting components under the hood in the engine like injectors o2 sensors alternator , my first test would be to disconnect the small wire to the starter and leave the big one one for now and see if the fuse dtill blows, i have found this to happen when the starter is shorting out inside, if you turn the key and the fuse doesnt blow then replace the starter, remember the small wire on the starter. good day.
your fan receives a certain amount of power that is usually dumbed down by a resistor( a coil inside of ceramic), in most cases that resistor blows, and on some occasions "hi" setting will still work but not in all cases. im pretty sure last time i had one replaced it was about $80 at the garage but im not sure if that included labor or not
Fuses only blow if-Old,Overheated or you have a Short circuit.
That should be any easy fix,to the extent that there aren't many 40 Amp Fuses and you will need a wiring diagram to follow the problem from the fuse to the cause. If you know what fuse it is, you can guess,but I wouldn't recommend that,it will be time consuming and maybe costly ,if you don't have a test procedure to follow and throw parts at it.
Don't replace the fuse.Their expensive and will keep blowing.