Question about 2006 Toyota Sienna

2 Answers

Driver's Side sliding door on my 2006 Toyota sienna won't open past the 6" safety stop for the fuel door/gas cap. Even with the gas cap back on, and the fuel door closed and latched, the door will still NOT open, it's as if the fuel door is still open. I can hear a mechanical "Click" stopping the door roller at the bottom of the door, but I can't access it. How can I fix this?

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  • Joe0139 May 12, 2009

    Thanks for your reply so far, but this is NOT a power door; this is the manual/sliding door on the driver's side. (Power door is over on the passenger side).


    The problem is the Gas Cap/Fuel Door safety interlock. This engages when the fuel door is open, stopping the door from sliding. (It keeps the sliding door from hitting the gas pump when you're fueling).


    Now, the thing is acting as if the fuel door is still open. (Which it is NOT.) I can hear a cable or pulley working inside when I close the fuel door, but so far; NADA.



    It does not release the door-stopper from opening more than 6".



    Thanks,

  • Joe0139 May 13, 2009

    Thanks for the update on my problem. I agree it's a latch or button that's stopping the slider, but the real trick seems to be FINDING this ******. (Is there any kind of picture available of what to look for?)



    There's nothing visible on the sliding door itself; it's all sealed on the bottom and the sides. Ditto for the bottom of the vehicle, underneath it all around the side door entranceway. (Do I need to take something apart to access this lever you mentioned?)



    I suspect this "Button" or stopper is somewhere in the track of the body of the vehicle, under the running board area, but not in the door itself. It's all but impossible to access this, esp with the door only opening 6".



    What I CAN see is a lever that attaches to the door at the bottom/underside, and goes inside the body of the van, under the runningboard. Attached to this is a roller assembly that glides along the track. There appear to be two cables going to/from the door from this assembly, and a plastic cover on top of the assembly going inside the body of the vehicle.



    This whole assembly seems to be what is knocking or hitting the "safety" interlock, but again, it's all but impossible to see anything. (Note: I can hear the cable assembly move when I push in the button from the fuel door - this is the "Click" sound I was describing.) Checked the child safety feature as well; doesn't seem to make any difference.


    Can I send you a picture to show you what I'm talking about? Thanks again for your help.



  • Joe0139 May 13, 2009

    Minor clarification: I called it a "lever" at the bottom of the door; more accurately, it's probably a "Bracket". It's solid metal, attaches to the bottom of the door (on the bottom LH side), and has the roller assembly (not visible) attached to it at the other end, inside of the body of the vehicle.



    Thanks again.

  • Joe0139 May 14, 2009

    Thanks; this seems to make a lot of sense. I'm going to pursue warranty repair from my dealer. I've got a 100k mile bumper to bumper warranty; I hope they cover this, as well.

  • Joe0139 May 27, 2009

    Well, the fix was a little simpler than all that, thankfully. It was all mechanical, nothing electronic at all.



    I parked the van in a slightly different angle, and with some better light, was able lay on the floor underneath it and swing around in reverse and get my hand up inside the track and find the problem, then push down on the metal stopper/lever that was stuck in the upright position. (I don't recommend this for saftey reasons - your hand COULD get stuck in the narrow space while you're laying there at an odd angle.)



    BUT, once this little lever is back down, the door moves freely.



    There is an old-fashioned constant-pressure spring that returns the lever to "down" position when the fuel door is closed, and the above mentioned switches and interlocks do their thing. If this spring is knocked off (as was in my case), the lever comes up and STAYS up.



    I had some debris and sticks, etc. a while back get stuck in the door, and perhaps this was part of the issue. If I can take some pictures of the lever, I'll post them. I'd hate to hear of anyone going through this nonsense again.

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Please be sure the Child Lock is fully ON or OFF - sometimes it will be in the middle and cause this problem.

Otherwise -

This is the procedure for 'recalibrating' the system...

1. The power sliding door on/off switch should be just in front of the
drivers left knee.
When in the 'on' position, you can see red around the button.
Turn the system off by pushing in the button so no red is visible.

2. Now you can close the power sliding door manually if it is open.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable for one minute.
4. Connect the battery cable
5. Go inside the van, and turn the system on (so the red portion of the button is visible).
6. Wait 60 seconds.
7. Open the sliding door with the button under the radio.
6. After five seconds, close it.

Repeat twice


Additionally - this sequence may also work for you...

Turn the power door control button to the off position (where you can't see
the red on the button).
Disconnect the - battery cable for a minute.
Reconnect, and then turn the system back on with the same button.
Open the door and see if it worked.

This is a soft reset.


If neither resets work - your problem lies in the Door Transmission Module (inside the door) or in the limit sensor inside the track - not serviceable.... track must be replaced.


If you require additional help - please use the "Continue with this expert" option so we are connected in the future.

Thanks for using FixYa!!

Posted on May 12, 2009

  • 4 more comments 
  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 12, 2009

    So sorry - I just assumed it was electric because you stated there was a clicking sound.





    There is a latch that prevents the door from opening while the gas cap door is open.



    The latch is in the bottom of the door and needs to be pushed forward and down so that the door can open.



    Use a screw driver to push the lever down into place, and the door will open fully.



    Spray with some WD-40 or graphite powder to lubricate the pin.



    Thanks!!

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 12, 2009

    you may try manually pushing on the black release button inside the gascap to get it to free up - but it will still need lubrication.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 13, 2009

    You are correct - the 2004 has the exposed lever.

    Late 2005, there was a design change (worse for the consumer)

    The door must come off the track, and safety solenoid replaced.

    There is no picture available that i could find.

    That safety is electonic - not a manual lever.

    Many times the dealer will replace under silent recall... or pick up 1/2 the labor.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 13, 2009

    its called an interlock full-open stopper.



    However this allows the door to open 1/2 way before hitting the stopper.



    Maybe your problem lies elsewhere - like the window open safety, or child lock - since it only opens 6".

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 27, 2009

    I have consulted with a colleague - and here is his opinion of the problem you are experiencing...



    "I would suspect the slide door "half open stopper switch" (the fuel lid switch) is the culprit.


    Using an ohmeter, inspect the resistance between terminals 1 and 2 of the connector. In the "ON" condition (fuel lid closed), the resistance should be BELOW 1 ohm.



    In the "OFF" condition (fuel lid open), the resistance should be 10 K ohms or HIGHER.



    If the result is not as specified as above, replace the control sub-assembly.

    The child locks have nothing to do with your issue."



    Thought i would pass it along. Sorry it is a bit dated... he has been off for a while - however it may be helpful to you.



    Thanks again for using FixYa!!

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 27, 2009

    ok - good to know. I'll have it for future reference (although i did reference the lever earlier in the session ) :D



    Thanks again!!

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I am having the same problem with the lever not returning to the down position. Can you post a picture of what it should look like so I can try to fix mine? Thank you soooooo much!

Posted on Jul 31, 2013

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