Question about 1998 Mazda Millenia

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98 millenia has a p1345 cam code replaced distributor ecu timing belt and timing marks are correct... ck wiring no open circuit what else can cause this probelm?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

lesabre1972
  • 474 Answers

SOURCE: 4AGE DIZZY TIMING

With the timming marks lined up make sure that cylinder 1 is at top dead center on the compresion stroke, then as you lower the distributer back in make sure that the rotor is pointing to the number 1 plug wire post on the distributor cap,mark the distributor where the #1 post is since you can't install it with the cap on.

Posted on Aug 30, 2008

  • 337 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 mazda poetege> correct timing mark alignment.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528019f906



there are other diagrams on that page if this is not the right one.

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

  • 14036 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 Mazda Millenia, Changed Almost Everything, Still No Spark..

check the pcm .get it scan make sure your pcm is working.also check ignition coils.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

mkv0525
  • 358 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 mazda millenia no spark but removed timing tensioner b4

check crank/cam sensors. could have been damaged when the tens.was broken.

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

  • 5370 Answers

SOURCE: 97 mazda 626 dx 2.0. manual shift, crank but won't

First check the spark plugs.

If your engine cranks normally but will not start because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart because it has no spark, the problem may be due to any of the following:

1) A bad pickup inside the distributor ,a stripped distributor drive gear (common problem with plastic distributor drive gears), broken, loose or corroded wires from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM.

2) A bad crankshaft position (CKP) sensor or broken, loose or corroded wires from the sensor to the PCM.

3) A bad ignition module or A bad ignition coil .

4) A bad rotor or distributor cap (cracks or carbon tracks that are allowing the spark to short to ground)

5) Faulty ignition switch.

------------

You can also do a test to confirm the problem .The procedure to do the test is as follows:---

If your engine has spark plug wires, disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark plug and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. Then insert a small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot), or a small bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem.

OR-----------

If your engine has a coil-on-plug ignition system with no plug wires, In that case remove one of the coils from the spark plug and insert an old spark plug, a spark plug tester or a screwdriver into the end of the coil. Ground the spark plug or plug tester to the engine, then crank the engine and look for a spark. No spark indicates an ignition problem.

Possibilities to be checked in this problem are as follows:--


If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on. If NO voltage, then problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).

But If there is NO voltage at the coil itself, then in that case the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit).

But if the coil has voltage, then problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor.------Getting this all possibilities checked will point towards the exact faulty part which is to be replaced.

But if all this possibilities checked out ok,then yes its the ECU fault.Get the ECU checked and replaced.----------This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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1998 mitsubishi lancer 1.5 lt


The 1.5L was never a power house, but the first checks should be
* check if the ECU is throwing an error code. If so this is a vital clue.
* verify the cam belt alignment. This can slip a few teeth and cause all sorts of problems
* verify the timing (assuming your 98 has a distributor or cam position sensor adjustment)
* Pull the injectors and soak them in injector cleaner.
* clean or replace the air filter.
* Check the coolant temp sensor (on the thermostat housing) does not have damaged wires. This sensor is vital for the ECU to decide what timing and mixture is needed.

Mar 26, 2014 | 1998 Mitsubishi Lancer

1 Answer

Got some code wont start


Code 1345 is for a problem with the sync of the crank and cam sensors. Code 1250 is for a problem with the EVAP system that vents the gas tank. And code 300 is for a random miss.
I would have the crank and cam sensors tested first.
It could be a sensor or a problem with the timing belt.

Feb 06, 2013 | 2002 Mazda Millenia

2 Answers

99 GMC suburban 5.7l P1345 wont start/misfire


The primary intent of this code is to detect slipped camshaft timing. Have you checked the camshaft timing? Your symptoms indicate you are a tooth off.

May 24, 2017 | 1999 GMC Suburban

1 Answer

1998 gmc z71 surges in drive p1345


The P1345 means SGC (Cam Position) sensor circuit malfunction/crankshaft position-camshaft position correlation
P0300 means random/multiple cylinder misfire detected

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Aug 07, 2012 | 1998 GMC Sierra

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I have a 98 chevy z71 5.7 350 vortec, i have a p1345 code that stays on i clear it and as i restart the truck it comes back on, the truck runs great and has a small delay when starrted.. what can/do i need...


1345 is cam and crank sensor correlation its mainly the cam sensor going out, also the delay start that also trigger a camsensor code they call it excessive crank time check the fuel pressure that is capable of setting a cam code (1345) If fuel pressure is good (55-60 psi) expect to replace the camsensor you might as well do the crank sensor heres a nightmare on this code it can set if the distributor is off one tooth and yes these distributor have high failure rate

Jun 08, 2011 | 1998 Chevrolet K1500

2 Answers

I failed the emission test i changed my distributor cap and rotor now my engine is missing, as before it ran good and idle perfect and was strong accelerating the only thing was i had to crank it onr...


check your spark plug placement on cap. cranking more than normal as in my case I changed fuel filter but in the end I had to change my fuel pump. Check pressure..if possible,,

Mar 13, 2011 | 1996 Chevrolet K1500

2 Answers

P0014 and p1345 codes


Hello billscranese,

The P0014 is a cam phasing code. The phasing system is a hydraulic actuated phase shifting system and is vulnerable to dirty oil. If its been sometime since your last oil change I would recommend that you start with that. The control module turns off the MIL after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.

The P1345 could be caused by the P0014. The powertrain control module monitors the correlation between the crank and cam positions and if the deviation between the two exceeds a predetermined amount it will set the code.

Good luck.

Regards,
netvan

Feb 26, 2011 | 2003 GMC Envoy

6 Answers

Trouble code P1345


Let's back up. On top of the distributor with the cap removed there is an "8" and a "6" on the edge. With the harmonic balancer set with its' mark lined up with the timing pointer of the timing chain cover, the tip of the rotor should be lined up with the "6". If not, remove the hold down bolt, raise the distributor until the rotor can be turned, rotate rotor and set down until rotor of tip lines up with "6". See if it cranks normally then. A worn distributor gear (sharp edges) will also set this code and cause starting problems.

Apr 29, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

2 Answers

GMC Sierra 2002 4.3 V6 P1345


intake gasket i had the same problem with my truck

Mar 09, 2009 | 2002 GMC Sierra 1500

5 Answers

Trouble code 1345 crank sensor/camshaft sensor correlation


I had this same P1345 code on my 1998 GMC K1500 5.7 for about 2 years. Each time the code was erased, the "Service Engine Light" came right back on with the same code. I tried replacing the cam sensor, but that didn't solve it. I had the timing adjusted, it was out -13 degrees. After adjustment, the "Service Engine Light" went off, but only for a short time. Adjusting the timing is just a temporary mask on fixing the real problem and eventually you will run out of adjustment. I read about this same problem on another forum and someone recommended changing the distributor gear. So I checked the gear and a the teeth were worn. Replaced the gear ($35 part), readjusted the timing and the light has been off ever since. Apparently the gears in 96-99 are soft and wear enough to throw off the timing. This code is telling you the crank and distributor are out of sync. So before you start buying sensors and other misc. parts, try the distributor gear if you are getting a P1345 code.

Mar 03, 2009 | 1998 GMC Sierra

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