Question about 1981 Ford F 100

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Ignition system troubleshooting for a Ford F100 1981 pickup. I've replaced the electronic ignition module, cap, rotor, reluctor, induction stator, plugs and wires. Some of these things desperately needed changing. (Don't think they had been changed since bought or at least 15 years.) I have spark to the distributor, none to the plugs. It had been running.

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  • ronnsuz May 12, 2009

    I haven't cranked it with the cap off, but the rotor has been in different positions with I took the cap off at different times.

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    is the rotor turning?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: ford f100

0.81 - 0.91 millimetre

Posted on Jun 08, 2008

freetek
  • 5568 Answers

SOURCE: Problems with Dura Spark ignition system on a 2.8L V6 engine, '76 - '78 Mustang/Capri

Very small help:
> ,(& what is a “ballast” resistor? Is it different from a regular resistor?).

Ballast resistors are special; they have what is known as a 'positive temperature coefficient' meaning that they increase in resistance with temperature.
This provides a very hot spark to start, then a reduction in current as the resistor warms up.
This prevented points and coils from frying from unnecessarily high current.
Early electronic ignition systems still used them, I don't think any modern car has them now.

If you have a larger public library, it might be worth a look on line (if available) or a visit to search for a manual; have found some classics there.
If you find it there - copy it, then RETURN IT! :-)

Posted on Jun 11, 2008

  • 422 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 chevrolet k1500 pickup 305 a misfire in # 2 cylinder

hi there, if you can feel the misfire at an idle but not at a higher rpm than the fuel pressure regulator is bad im working on one right now that has mifire code and random misfire codes coming up

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

midnightcowb
  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: weak spark + 1988 ford bronco

i have an 89 ford bronco if i drive it to work get home shut it off try to start it again it wont start sounds like the battery is dead but have replaced the battery what could it be

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • 82 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1981 K20 chevrolet 4x4 Pickup with a 350

have the ignition module checked. It it in the distributor under the rotor, if it is hei, it held on by 2 small screws

Posted on May 05, 2009

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1 Answer

How to change cam shaft sensor on 1997 5.7 1500 chev truck


Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement (5.0L, 5.7L)

Removal Procedure


    Caution: Refer to

    Caution: Unless directed otherwise, the ignition and start switch must be in the OFF or LOCK position, and all electrical loads must be OFF before servicing any electrical component. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent an electrical spark should a tool or equipment come in contact with an exposed electrical terminal. Failure to follow these precautions may result in personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.

    For Vehicles equipped with OnStar® (UE1) with Back Up Battery:

    The Back Up Battery is a redundant power supply to allow limited OnStar® functionality in the event of a main vehicle battery power disruption to the VCIM (OnStar®module). Do not disconnect the main vehicle battery or remove the OnStar® fuse with the ignition key in any position other than OFF. Retained accessory power (RAP) should be allowed to time out or be disabled (simply opening the driver door should disable RAP) before disconnecting power. Disconnecting power to the OnStar® module in any way while the ignition is On or with RAP activated may cause activation of the OnStar® Back-Up Battery (BUB) system and will discharge and permanently damage the back-up battery. Once the Back-Up Battery is activated it will stay on until it has completely discharged. The BUB is not rechargeable and once activated the BUB must be replaced.


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


  2. Disconnect the spark plug wires and ignition coil wire from the distributor.

  3. Disconnect the CMP sensor harness connector from the distributor.


  4. Remove the distributor cap screws.


  5. Remove the distributor cap.


  6. Remove the rotor screws.


  7. Remove the rotor.

  8. Remove the CMP sensor screws.


  9. Align the square slot in the reluctor wheel with the CMP sensor.


  10. Remove the CMP sensor.

Installation Procedure

Important: Do not use the old cap screws, CMP sensor screws, or rotor screws. Use replacement screws that have been coated with a thread locking compound. Precoated replacement cap and CMP sensor screws can be acquired using P/N 10475922 (pkg of 10 screws). Precoated replacement rotor screws can be acquired using P/N 10475924 (pkg of 10 screws).



  1. Align the square slot in the reluctor wheel with the CMP sensor.


  2. Insert the CMP sensor through the reluctor wheel slot.

  3. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.



  4. Install new CMP sensor mounting screws.

    Tighten:

    Tighten the fasteners to 1.6-2.8 [n-m] (14-25 lb in).

  5. Important: The locating tabs on the rotor are necessary for correct alignment of the rotor. If the tabs are missing or damaged, replace the rotor.


  6. Install the rotor onto the reluctor wheel.


  7. Install new rotor fasteners.

    Tighten:

    Tighten the screws to 1.5-2.4 [n-m] (13-22 lb in)

  8. Install the distributor cap.


  9. Install new distributor cap screws.

    Tighten:

    Tighten the screws to 1.8-3.0 [n-m] (16-26 lb in)

  10. Connect the CMP sensor harness connector.

  11. Connect the spark plug wires and ignition coil wire.


  12. Connect the negative battery cable.

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