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That may be tough to fix. My first thought is the control panel, but it could be the hvac programmer or even the body computer. Do you have controls on the steering wheel, and can you change temp from there ? Its probably going to take a shop that deals with electronics and a shop manual to get all of the diagrams. You could switch out the control on the dash with a used part as a test.
Hello, If you are confident that the Freon level is accurate and not just indicating Air pressure, then you need to look at the Low pressure cutoff switch or the dash knob for the temperature control. Or high speed on the Radiator fan is not kicking in. Here is an explanation of what I am saying.
1. The pressure readings indicate the pressure of any type of gas in the system. Freon is both a liquid and a gas and that is how it moves heat from one place to another. If you have air in the system, your Freon is diluted by a contaminant. This (contaminant) is Environmental air which can be compressed in the Freon lines. This works like an air compressor. When making an A/C repair, the Freon is drawn out of the system and then a Vacuum is made in the Freon hoses by a reverse pump with removes all air and moisture. Autozone, Oreillys, and Advance usually have tool loaner programs for you when you leave a deposit. I had A/C problems on Vacation, left a $250 deposit on an A/C pump, and fixed my air on the spot. I was immediately refunded my deposit when I returned the unit.
2. The low pressure cutoff switch is the usually the first switch from the oblong A/C tank. This is the connector you usually disconnect and jump to start filling the system. The switch can be unscrewed and exchanged with a new one. Sometimes the spring inside gets weak.
3. On a manual A/C control ONLY, the knob can break around the shaft. When you dial a temperature, the shaft does not move behind the knob. Remove the knob and gently turn the shaft with a covered pair of pliers to the cold position.
4. The cooling fan for the Radiator has 2 speeds. It is suppose to kick up the speeds to cool down the Radiator better. If a high speed relay burned out, you will not get maximum cooling.
I hope my Solution has covered every possibility for your problem.
Sounds like your heater core could be blocked up or a blockage in the pipes. Most car heaters run off a heater core that cycles hot water from the engine's water jacket, or a heat exchanger around the exhaust manifold, through the core, with a fan then blowing this hot air through the vents to you. If the pipes from the water jacket to the heater core are blocked then no hot water will get through. Alternatively, the heater core or pipes may be damaged and leaking. Check to ensure you're not losing any coolant. If it's the heater core, there's really nothing for it but to replace it. I'm not 100% sure where it would be on your car, on my old car it was up behind the centre console, under the dash.
Hope that helps.
The 1992 was prior to Buick putting cabin air filters in so there is not a possibility it is clogged. So more than likely your blower motor is going bad or your fan control switch is bad. Does this problem occur with heating as well as AC? Does it change if you switch between blowing on floor, face, window(defrost) If it doesnt change based on location of blow and type of air temp then I would start by turning fan on high and placing head (ear ) against dash in center of console area. Have someone turn fan knob from low to high with engine OFF...After goign from low to high and back a few times you can see if the blower motor is responding to signal from switch. Listen for a whine, squeal, rattle, or humm. A whine or Humm would indicate a bad blower motor... Squeal or rattle a bad squirrel cage/fan blower blades. If you hear no noise and no perceivable change in blower speed/noise then its possible your switch is bad. Unfortunately the only way to definitely diagnose either is to pull the switch from dash and use multimeter to test for voltage change and for blower motor to pull dash. There is a digital control unit for your car as well. Although rare sometimes the wires on this can loosen or it can go bad. But since you didnt state teh fan wasnt working at all and you are getting cool air, that woudl be teh last thing to check
Usually when the blower fan only operates on hi speed, its because of a failed blower motor resistor. You still have hi speed because on hi, the power going to the blower motor goes directly to it, as opposed to the lower speeds, when the power is routed through the resistor, thus lowering the voltage, which in turn lowers the speed of the fan. The resistor is usually located near the blower motor itself, under the hood back near the firewall.
Try a auto recycling yard and ask for the rack, power steering lines, pump, and accessory bracket. Some yards also install which can save you from looking for extra parts. The recycler should have a parts interchange manual to know what years and models interchange.
This is a typical symptom of a failed blower resistor. These have multiple taps for the different speeds but the highest speed just bypasses the resistor completely; that is why it still runs full-tilt.
That resistor may or may not be inside the passenger compartment and could be accessible from under the hood, probably mounted on the firewall or under plastic hoods covering part of the heater/AC exchangers.
I'd recommend buying a Haynes or Chilton manual for your car that should cover the location of that part and perhaps give you information on how to best access it.
The books are $17-$30 US and available on line or at any auto parts store and will earn their keep pretty quickly.