Question about 2000 Ford Windstar

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Ran over center divider.tie rod end of boot bent then broke. took out tie rod end,removed both clamps,removed rubber piece.what next?

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Install new tie rod end

Posted on May 12, 2009

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1 Answer

Inter tie rode


You will need to remove the rubber accordion dust boot from the end of the rack of the rack&pinion. With the outer tie rod unhooked and removed and the rubber boot out of the way you should be looking at a nut that has a think flat washer bent up around the edges. You will need to get a small chisel and bend the washer back as flat as possible, this will allow you to get on the nut and remove the inner tie rod. Install the new one and make sure you bend up the washer around the new nut, this ensures it will not back out. install new boot and re-install outer tie rod and then it sill need to go to the alignment shop to have the toe set.

Apr 21, 2013 | 2003 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Have anyone out there ever change inner tie rods on a1995 honda odyssey?,if so simply explain,THANKS


Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.

To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedure.

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

Sep 10, 2012 | 1995 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

I need to rplace the inner tie rods.


Inner tie rods rarely if ever need to be replaced in my experience: outer tie rod ends are far more common. Its not impossible so here's how.

1. remove the tie rod ends from the knuckle.
2. remove the clamp for the rubber bellows on the rack ends, and slide the bellows down the rod.
3. Turn the rack to fullleft or right as needed to get access to the inner rod end that screws into the rack.
4. There's a lock tab that has to be bent flat. This locks the rod end into the rack.
5. You'll need a (probably) 32mm wrench to undo the rod end from the rack.
6. Note how the lock tab is fitted to the rack/rod end.

7. Put in the new tie rods.

If your garage mechanic told you the inner tie rods are worn out, I'd ask why they think so. At step 4. above, try rotating the rod. This should be quite difficult. There should be NO evidence of slop or wear in the inner joint. What more commonly wears is the bushes on the end of the rack. These bushes are easily replacable with the rack in the car.The tie rods have to be removed to do this. So, when the rods are off, inspect the rack bushes for wear.

SD

Jun 25, 2011 | 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander

1 Answer

How to replace an inner tie rod end on a 2001 s600 mercedes benz


I will enclose some pictures to also help you, First remove the wheel on the side of the bad inner tierod,make sure a jack stand is used under the frame for safety. With the wheel off you will next loosen the nut at the rear of the outter tie rod, just a few turns is good, theres a nut that holds the outter rod to the spindle you will need to remove the cotter pin first is it has a locking nut then there will be no cotter pin, remove the nut and seperate the tierod from spindle, this is done with a fork or hitting the side of spindle with a hammer, with that off you will untwist the outter rod, count the turn so it will be close until you have an alignment. with end off next remove the nut that you loosened that locked the outter rod. Remove the clip clamp on the boot and also remove the inner clamp and slide boot off, turn wheel so the inner rod on the side you are working on comes out all the way, next is to remove the inner rod by unscrewing it, if you look you will see a washer that bends over the end to lock it, use a chisel or screw driver to bend ends out of the way then use a wrench to remove the inner tie rod, the new one is ready to install, use locktight on the thread off the new inner tie rod to lock it and also bend washer ends back over to also help lock it, then reverse directions to finish the job. then you will need an ailgnment, hope this is helpful.johnjohn2_66.jpgjohnjohn2_67.jpgjohnjohn2_68.jpg

Feb 22, 2011 | 2001 Mercedes-Benz S-Class

2 Answers

Steering rod that the tie rod end is threaded onto is bent. Can that rod be replaced by its self?


yes! It is called an inner tie rod end and may require a special tool to install. Alignment is required after parts are replaced. Failing to do aligment may cause tire to be worn exessively

Jan 10, 2011 | 2000 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

1999 ford falcon futura change steering rack boot


To replace the boot first you have to remove the outer tie rod end form the spindle asembly. You will need a pair of wire cutters to grab the cotter pin that holds the nut in place. After the nut is removed whack the spindle where the tie rod goes into it with a ball peen hammer and the tie rod end will pop right out. Do not hit the tie rod end on the threads or you will have to buy a new one. Now you have to seperate the outer and inner tie rod ends. There is a nut holding the two tightly in place and a notch in the inner tie rod end to put a wrench on so the inner will not spin when you spin off the outer tie rod end. Mark the threads before removal so you can put it back where it was adjusted before. Loosen the nut and spin off the tie rod end. Now for the boot. There are two clamps on the boot you need to remove a small clamp and a large clamp. With the wire cutters grab these clamps and wrok them off. The new boot will come with new clamps. Always replace the clamps. Now just slide the boot off. You will need to remove the lock nut to change the boot so make sure you mark the threads on the inside so you do not wipe the mark off when you remove the nut. Now just reverse the process to reassemble. Be sure to put it back where it was adjusted before. Make sure to use a new cotter pin. When you reinstall the nut back on the outer tie rod end it is important to tighten it about one turn past snug and line up the cotter pin hole by tightening the nut do not back off the nut to align the cotter pin or it will come loose and ruin the spindle. Not that was not so hard was it. Thanks for visiting the site.

Nov 19, 2010 | Ford Futura Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Fit steering rack boots on a 93 honda accord


Simply jack the vehicle up / remove the wheel on that side / removed the split pin and castellated nut on the tie rod end / using a soft hammer or ball joint splitter hit the end of the ball joint arm till the tie rod falls out / loosen the tie rod lock nut then unscrew the tie rod. Remove the boot clips / clamps and remove the torn rack boot. Replacement is the reverse of the above.
NB = A wheel alignment is required to correct the adjustment of the tie rod end ASAP.

Oct 19, 2010 | 1993 Honda Accord

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

How to replace to inner tie rod


remove tire un bolt outter tie rod end from spindle where it connects loosen the jam nut remove tie rod end count how many turns it takes to get off or your alignment will be way off remove clamps off of the rubber boot one small one large there is a special tool to remove the inner tie rod but you might be able to get a pair of pliers on it turn it out when you replace the end make sure to fold the washer over the flat spots on the tie rod to ensure it wont work loose not to hard of a job

Feb 25, 2010 | 1998 Mercury Sable

2 Answers

Replacing a bent tie rod on my 2006 Subaru Legacy.


it depends if it is inner or outer tierod if it is inner i would get the bushings for it too

Jan 26, 2010 | 2006 Subaru Legacy

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