Question about 1983 Toyota Celica

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I removed the number 3 main bearing cap and found that when the engine was rebuilt that the thrust washers were not installed and the crankshaft rubbed against the block and cap. does anyone know if i can install thrust washers and if the motor will continue to run? the motor is going into a mini stock race car. thank you

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  • tpeterson20 May 12, 2009

    yeah thats what i figured... it was worth a shot to ask tho. well, thats two motors down... thank you for your help

  • tpeterson20 May 13, 2009

    thanx. ya no shells just regular bearings. its not worth my time or $ to mess with it

  • Dave  C
    Dave C May 11, 2010

    Unfortunately no! The crankshaft is now scored and will wipe out the the the thrust bearings instantly unless it is machined and polished and over sized thrust bearings are fitted.
    Easier to find another engine now because I doubt you'll find the parts.


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  • 351 Answers

All the cars that I have worked on in the past have the thrust washer as part of the bearing shell which looks like a shell that has had both the sides folded up. not real sure about your motor but.
If it is like I said the shell comes as 2 halves, if you remove the bearing cap you should be able to push on one side of the bearing that does not have a little protruding piece that lock that half of the bearing from turning around.
If the surface of the crank that was rubbing on the block is rough and scored the crank will have to be replaced or machined depending on the damage that it has had done to it.
If you use it damaged you will ruin the bearing very quickly and have to start all over again

Posted on May 12, 2009

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Torque for main bearings on a 2002 3.7 ltr. liberty?


the book is free to read? KJ
chapter 9s
(7) Before installing bolts, lubricate the threads
with clean engine oil, wipe off any excess oil.
(8) Install main bearing bedplate to engine block
bolts 11, 17 and 20 finger tight. Tighten these bolts
down together until the bedplate contacts the cylinder
block.
(9) To ensure correct thrust bearing alignment,
perform the following steps:
² Step 1: Rotate crankshaft until number 4 piston
is at TDC.
² Step 2: Move crankshaft rearward to limits of
travel.
² Step 3: Then, move crankshaft forward to limits
of travel.
² Step 4: Wedge an appropriate tool between the
rear of the cylinder block (NOT BED PLATE) and
the rear crankshaft counterweight. This will hold the
crankshaft in it's furthest forward position.
² Step 5: Install and tighten bolts (1-10) in
sequence shown in (Fig. 49) to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.).
² Step 6: Remove wedge tool used to hold crankshaft.
(10) Tighten bolts (1-10) again to 41 N·m (30 ft.
lbs.) PLUS 1/4 turn in sequence shown in (Fig. 49).
(11) Install main bearing bedplate to engine block
bolts (11-20), and torque each bolt to 28 N·m (20 ft.
lbs.) in sequence shown in (Fig. 49).
(12) After the main bearing bedplate is installed,
check the crankshaft turning torque. The turning
torque should not exceed 5.6 N·m (50 in. lbs.).

why not just read the chapter, here.

http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

Jan 17, 2017 | 2002 Jeep Liberty

2 Answers

How to fix floating crank


what do you mean by "floating crank"
comment on he description

Oct 19, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

NEED DIAGRAM FOR LOCATIONS OF CRANKSHAFT PULLY,OIL SLINGER AND SPRING.FOR 1983 MAZDA 2.2L DIESEL


Here is the procedure:-


  1. Remove setscrew from side of cylinder block.


  2. Remove oil pipe attaching bolts.


  3. Remove oil pump and strainer.
TIMING GEAR COVER



  1. Remove timing gear cover to case attaching bolts.


  2. Remove timing gear cover and gasket.

CAMSHAFT, CRANKSHAFT, IDLER & INJECTION PUMP GEARS



  1. Remove oil slinger and washers from crankshaft snout.
Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove crankshaft timing gear, Fig. 3.


  1. Position a clean rag between camshaft and idler gears, then remove cam gear lock bolt and washers.


  2. Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove cam gear from camshaft, Fig. 3.


  3. Remove idler gear to spindle retaining nuts and washers, then remove idler gear and spindle assemblies.


  4. Remove injection pump drive gear.


  5. Remove timing gear case to cylinder block attaching bolts, then the timing case.



CAMSHAFT




  1. Remove tappets from cylinder block.


  2. Remove camshaft thrust plate to cylinder block retaining bolts and washers, then pull camshaft from block.



PISTON & CONNECTING ROD




  1. Remove connecting rod bearing cap retaining nuts and bolts, then separate bearing cap from connecting rod.


  2. Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.


  3. To separate piston from connecting rod, remove piston pin retaining clips, then press pin from piston using a suitable driver.



CRANKSHAFT




  1. Remove rear oil seal cap retaining bolts, then the cap and seal.


  2. Remove main bearing cap to cylinder block retaining bolts, then the main bearing caps and thrust washers.


  3. Lift crankshaft from cylinder block.

Mar 26, 2015 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Tercel 1992 main bearings torque


The Main Bearing Cap TorqueTo install:
  1. When reassembling, clean the bearing caps and journals in the block thoroughly. Coat the bearings with a liberal application of clean motor oil.



0900c15280051ec0.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Always torque the bearing caps to specification


0900c15280051ec1.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 4: Main bearing cap bolt tightening sequence on 3E and 3E-E engines

  1. Fit the upper bearings halves into the block and position the lower bearing halves in the bearing caps.
  2. Place the crankshaft into the engine block, making sure it fits exactly into its mounts.
  3. Install the upper thrust washers on the center main bearing with the oil grooves facing outward.
  4. Install the main bearing caps and the lower thrust washers in the proper sequence. Make sure the arrows on the caps point towards the front (pulley end) of the motor.
  5. Tighten the cap bolts to specification in three passes. On 3E and 3E-E engines, use the correct sequence.
  6. Double check the end-play of the crankshaft by repeating the procedure described earlier.
  7. Turn the crankshaft through one or two full clockwise rotations, making sure that it turns smoothly and evenly with no binding.
  8. Attach the piston rods, following procedures given earlier in this section. Remember that the rod caps must be reinstalled in their original positions.
  9. Install a new rear main oil seal into the retainer and install the retainer onto the block. Tighten the bolts to specification.
  10. Install the rear end plate on the engine.
  11. Install either the driveplate (automatic) or the flywheel (manual), observing the matchmarks made during removal.
  12. If equipped with a manual transaxle, reinstall the clutch disc and pressure plate.
  13. Install the oil pump.
  14. Install the oil strainer and oil pan, using new gaskets.
  15. Rotate the engine into its upright position and continue reassembly of the timing belt, idler pulley and covers.
  16. Reinstall the engine in the car, following procedures outlined earlier in this section.
42 Foot pounds (Final torque)

Dec 15, 2012 | 1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT

1 Answer

Replacing crankshaft pulley/balancer assy procedure. 1994 Merc Topaz 2.3 4cyl.


Crankshaft and Main Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION NOTE: When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. CAUTION
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your and and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used. 2.3L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the cooling system and engine crankcase.
  3. Remove the engine from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the crankshaft front pulley, front cover, timing chain and sprockets, cylinder head, oil pan, oil pump and intermediate driveshaft.
  5. Remove the rear oil seal cover bolts and remove the cover.
  6. Remove the piston assemblies. NOTE: Mark the connecting rods and bearing caps so they can be installed in the proper cylinders.
  7. Remove the main bearing caps and bearing.
  8. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase, so No. 3 thrust bearing surfaces are not damaged.
  9. Remove the main bearing inserts from the engine block and bearing caps. NOTE: For cleaning purposes, the oil gallery and coolant drain plugs can be removed. To install:
  10. Wash the cylinder block thoroughly to remove all foreign material and dry before assembling other components. Check to ensure all oil holes are fully open and clean. Check to ensure the bearing inserts and bearing bores are clean. Clean the mating surfaces of the crankcase and each main bearing cap.
  11. Install the main bearings in the cylinder block. Note that the center front bearing is a thrust bearing and the front upper bearing has a small "V'' notch on the parting line face.
  12. Lubricate the bearings with clean engine oil.
  13. Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage the bearing surfaces.
  14. Check the clearance of each main bearing as outlined in this section.
  15. After the bearing has been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings. Install the bearing cap in their original locations . (refer to numbers on caps). The caps must be installed with the arrows pointing to ward the front of the engine. Oil the bolts and tighten to specifications. Repeat the procedure for the remaining bearings. NOTE: Turn the crankshaft to check for turning torque. The turning torque should not exceed 4.5 ft. lbs. (6 Nm).
  16. Install the pistons and connecting rod caps. Check clearance of each bearing, as out lined in this section.
  17. After the connecting rod bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings.
  18. Turn the crankshaft throw to the bottom of its stroke. Pull the piston all the way down until the rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. NOTE: Guide the rod to prevent crankshaft journal and oil cooling jet damage.
  19. Install the connecting rod cap. Align the marks on the rods with the marks on the cap, and tighten the nut.
  20. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the side clearance between the connecting rods on each connecting rod crankshaft journal.
  21. Install the rear crankshaft seal and cover. Tighten the bolts to 5–7 ft. lbs. (7–10 Nm).
  22. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal.

Jul 26, 2010 | 1994 Mercury Topaz

3 Answers

I would like to know where the crankshaft gasket is? I have a 1994 dodge spirit, a 6 cyl. How hard is it for me to replace the gasket?


3.3L and 3.8L Engines
  1. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
  2. Remove the right front wheel and inner splash shield.
  3. Remove the accessory drive belt from the engine.
  4. Remove the center bolt of the crankshaft pulley.
  5. Using a claw-type gear puller, remove the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft. When using the puller, make certain that the claws are situated on the inner section of the pulley. If the claws are used on the outer section of the pulley, the pulley will be damaged.
  6. Use tool C-4991 or the equivalent to remove the oil seal from the timing chain cover. Make certain not to damage the crankshaft seal surface of the cover. Fig. 10: Use a claw-type gear puller to remove the crankshaft pulley/damper — 3.3L and 3.8L engines 86723231.gif
    Fig. 11: Use the seal remover tool C-4991 to remove the crankshaft oil seal — 3.3L and 3.8L engines 86723230.gif
    To install:
  7. Install the new seal by using tool C-4992 or the equivalent. Place the seal into the opening with the seal spring towards the inside of the engine. Install the seal until flush with the cover.
  8. To install the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft a 5.9 in. (150mm) long bolt, a thrust bearing and washer, and plate L-4524 or equivalent.
    1. Tap the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft with a rubber or plastic mallet making sure to hit the pulley on the center portion.
    2. Once the pulley is started onto the crankshaft, install a nut the thrust bearing and washer, and the plate L-4524 onto the bolt.
    3. Thread the bolt into the end of the crankshaft and screw it in at least 2 or 3 complete turns.
    4. Tighten down on the nut on the bolt to slowly press the pulley onto the crankshaft until completely seated.
    5. Remove the bolt, nut, washer and thrust bearing, and plate L-4524 from the crankshaft. Fig. 12: Installing the crankshaft pulley — 3.3L and 3.8L engines 86723229.gif

  9. Install the center crankshaft pulley bolt and tighten it to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  10. Install the accessory drive belt and tighten by following the instructions in Section 1.
  11. Install the splash shield and front wheel.
  12. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

Jul 16, 2010 | 1994 Dodge Spirit

1 Answer

I need to remove the harmonic pully on a 1996 avenger so i can replace the timing belt.


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the right side wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Remove the right inner splash shield.
  4. Remove the accessory drive belts.
  5. Break the crankshaft damper bolt loose, but do not remove it.
  6. Remove the crankshaft damper. If necessary, attach a suitable 3-jawed puller to the crankshaft damper, then tighten the center bolt and remove the damper bolt and damper.



0900c152800896d6.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 1: Remove the right side inner fender splash shield


0900c152800896d7.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 2: From below the vehicle, remove the accessory drive belts


0900c152800896d8.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 3: If necessary, use a prying tool to wedge between the engine block and damper spoke hole, then loosen the center bolt


0900c152800896d9.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 4: Remove the crankshaft damper center bolt and washer


0900c152800896da.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 5: Pull off the crankshaft damper, or remove using a 3-jawed puller tool
To install:
  1. Install the crankshaft damper. It may be necessary to install the crankshaft damper using an M12-1.75 x 150mm bolt, washer, thrust bearing and nut from the crankshaft damper installation tool kit 6792 or equivalent.
  2. Install the crankshaft damper bolt and tighten to the following specifications:

    2.0L SOHC and DOHC engines-105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm). 2.4L engine-100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm) 2.5L engine-134 ft. lbs. (182 Nm)
  3. Install the accessory drive belts.
  4. Install the right inner splash shield. Install the right side wheel and tire assembly.
  5. Carefully lower the vehicle, then connect the negative battery cable.

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Jul 10, 2009 | 1996 Dodge Avenger

1 Answer

Thank you for the input as far as your beliefs about it not being the torque converter as I was about to purchase one and have it installed. My question is what could cause this to be happening then?...


Your comment of "mainly on take offs on inclines" indicates excessive thrust on the crankshaft. If thrust is excessive it will travel longitudinally under load. This is verified by your other statements of "the crank could be pushed and pulled back and forth" and "the crank main bearing brackets were worn right off". These are not "brackets". One of the main bearings has a large outer flange type surface that acts against a machined surface on the crank to limit "thrust" or longitudinal travel. If the crank is improperly ground then it will quickly wear this bearing surface and present the problem you are describing.

Having been an engine and primarily transmission rebuilder for a number of years I can tell you that their claim of the torque converter "blowing up" and causing this problem is a load of bull.

Have your man carefully examine the crank for machine errors - all journals, but especially at the trust bearing, taking careful measurements and report any evidence of faulty crank to the machine shop responsible.

Every new (rebuilt) crank should always be carefully examined prior to install, bearing journals measured, bearings plasti-gauged, and thrust within limits.

Jun 23, 2009 | 1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

I'm looking for the 2000 isuzu rodeo 3.2L v6 connecting rod bearings torque specs.


1. Check the connecting rod alignment If either the bend or the twist exceeds the specified limit,the connecting rod must be replaced. Bend per 100 mm (3.937 inch) Limit: 0.15 (0.0059) Twist per 100 mm (3.937 inch) Limit: 0.20 (0.0078)

2. Measure the connecting rod thrust clearance. Use a feeler gauge to measure the thrust clearance at the large end of the connecting rod If the clearance exceeds the specified limit, the connecting rod must be replaced. Standard: 0.16 mm - 0.35 mm (0.0063 inch - 0.0138 inch) Limit: 0.40 mm (0.0157 inch)

3. Measure the oil clearance between the connecting rod and the crankshaft.

    1. Remove the connecting rod cap nuts and the rod caps (12). Arrange the removed rod caps in the cylinder number order.
    2. Clean the rod bearings and the crankshaft pins.
      1. Carefully check the rod bearings. If even one bearing is found to be damaged or badly worn, the entire bearing assembly must be replaced as a set. Reinstall the bearings in their original positions. Apply plastigage to the crank pin.
      2. Reinstall the rod caps (12) to their original positions. Tighten the rod cap nuts. Torque: 54 Nm (40 ft. lbs.) Note: Do not allow the crankshaft to rotate.
      3. Remove the rod caps.
        1. Measure the width of the plastigage and determine the oil clearance. If the oil clearance exceeds the limit, replace the rod bearing as a set. Standard: 0.019 mm - 0.043 mm (0.0007 inch - 0.0017 inch) Limit: 0.08 mm (0.003 inch)
        2. Clean the plastigage from the bearings and the crankshaft pins.

May 21, 2009 | 2000 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Crank shaft movement


did you check the pulley on the crank shaft ??
is it warped ?? ( bent )
because i do not think that the truck will run with the crankshaft moving.....back and forth.
so in any case you have a lot of work to do.
here is how to remove the crank shaft.
REMOVAL
  1. Remove the oil pan.
  2. Remove the oil pump from the rear main bearing cap.
  3. Remove the vibration damper.
  4. Remove the timing chain cover.
  5. Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove bearing caps and bearings one at a time.
  6. Lift the crankshaft out of the block.
  7. Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seals.
  8. Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil seal.
INSTALLATION
  1. Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine oil.
  2. Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
  3. Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
  4. Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine oil.
  5. Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
    1. Apply 5 mm (0.20 inch) drop of Loctite 518, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT over apply sealant or allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assemble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after sealant application.
    2. lb align the bearing cap, use cap slot, alignment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap more than 2 times for proper engagement.
    3. Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately tighten to 115 Nm (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
    4. Install oil pump.
    5. Install the timing chain cover.
    6. Install the vibration damper.
      1. Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing. Apply enough sealant until a small amount is squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess sealant off the oil pan seal groove.
      2. Install new front crankshaft oil seal.
      3. Immediately install the oil Dan.
if you have an email address i can send some images

Jun 07, 2008 | 1998 Dodge Dakota

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