Question about Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

Cant get rachet in to loosen bolt holding the bushing in place

I'm changing the bushings in the motor mounts on a 98 stratus 2.4l 4cyl. front mount is done,now im not able to loosten the bolt that goes through the center of bushing on rear mount(cant even get a click on ratchet,no room), any suggestions?

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  • 3 more comments 
  •  E.J.M.
    E.J.M. May 13, 2009

    yes tried 3 different extensions, swivel, and combos of all. havent tried box wrench, but dont think itll help.

  •  E.J.M.
    E.J.M. May 13, 2009

    hadn't thought of that , that's a pretty damn good idea. Now I know what the 3ft extension my gear-head buddy has is for!!lol. I'll have to borrow it and give that a go if its not raining in the morning. thx.

  •  E.J.M.
    E.J.M. May 25, 2009

    Thank you thundergod, the
    extension worked like a
    charm.


  • Richard Scordino May 11, 2010

    Tried a REALLY long extension? I've used three foot or better extensions to get to places no one could ever reach otherwise (even when you have to thread it through places and put the swivel on when it gets there.

  • Richard Scordino May 11, 2010

    Have you tried a long extension and swivel socket, or, trapping a box wrench on the side you cant do and going in from the other side? or, a combination of all these?

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  • Dodge Master
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Part of repair work involves being creative...Never say can't...that is the lazy way out...Glad you finally got it!!!

Posted on May 25, 2009

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1 Answer

How do I get a motor mount bushing to fit in motor mount


If you are sure the mount is not reversed, the difference could be in how the part was molded. As in being reversed, there may be a left or right side mount and you have the wrong side.

Your block casting has an angle, and the inner side of the mount goes to the engine and the outer side goes to the frame. One side may be higher than the other and you may have the mount bolted to the high side so it pushes 1/8 inch deeper than it should. Now if this is a rear wheel drive, sometimes you can tear the transmission mounts if you do not loosen the transmission frame mounts when you unseat the motor mounts. And actually the trans mounts are holding you back from aligning the motor.

Please rate my info.

Dec 01, 2012 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do i change my rubber bushings on the front suspention of my 1997 dodge ram 1500


opper Control Arm Bushings
  • To access the upper control arm, remove the shock absorber and the strut bar. Also, disconnect the sway bar from the lower control arm, if your particular Ram model is equipped with it. After that, you can hold the coil spring in place with a spring compressor.
    Secure the wheel hub assembly to the chassis using a wire before you disconnect the upper ball joint. This will prevent damage to the brake hose. When ready, release the ball joint using a ball-stud loosening tool (see Resources).
    The upper control arm mounts to the chassis with a cam bolt assembly. Once removed, you can place the control arm on a vise and remove the bushings using a bushing service tool (see Resources). When installing the new bushings, do not use any lubricant but make sure the flange on the bushing end seats properly on the arm bore. Then re-install the upper control arm. When finished, take your Dodge vehicle to a good shop to align the front suspension.
Lower Control Arm Bushings
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Oct 20, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Is fixing the ultinator yourself an easy job


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the drive belt.
  3. If necessary, remove any splash shielding for easier access to the alternator.
91072p19.gif

For easiest access to the alternator assembly, first remove the splash shield mounting fasteners ...
Click to Enlarge 91072p18.gif

... then swing it out of the way for access to the alternator assembly
Click to Enlarge 91072p17.gif

View of the alternator electrical connections-(A) battery positive, (B) field terminals, (C) wire harness hold down, (D) ground terminal

  1. Tag and disengage the alternator wiring.

It may be necessary to remove the alternator and mounting bracket from the vehicle as an assembly.

  1. If equipped, remove the front alternator assembly mounting plate.
91072p09.gif

Remove the six nuts and bolts that secure the front mounting plate to the alternator assembly
Click to Enlarge 91072p10.gif

Remove the front alternator assembly mounting plate from below the vehicle
Click to Enlarge

  1. Unfasten the alternator mounting and pivot bolts and remove the alternator.
  2. If installing the original alternator assembly, push out the pivot bushing as illustrated.
91072p11.gif

After removing the alternator assembly front mounting plate, remove the front engine-to-alternator bracket mounting stud
Click to Enlarge 91072p08.gif

Remove the two alternator bracket-to-engine mounting bolts
91072p12.gif

Remove the alternator and mounting bracket assembly from the vehicle
Click to Enlarge 91072p14.gif

If re-installing, the alternator has a pivot bushing on the pivot arm that should be pushed out before installation
91072p15.gif

Mount a C-clamp and 18mm socket on the alternator pivot bushing ...
91072p13.gif

... then compress the C-clamp until it pushes the alternator pivot bushing out

To install:

  1. Mount the alternator to the brackets with the nuts and bolts. Tighten the two mounting bolts and nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  2. If the alternator and mounting bracket were removed as an assembly, install the assembly into the vehicle.
  3. If removed, install the front mounting plate.
  4. Engage the alternator electrical connections.
  5. If removed, install the splash shield.
  6. install the drive belt and attach the negative battery cable.
  7. shinehutt_58.gifshinehutt_57.gifshinehutt_56.gifshinehutt_55.gifshinehutt_54.gifshinehutt_53.gifshinehutt_52.gifshinehutt_51.gif
the job is akward ive incl as much info you need to repair yourself

plz comment reply if need more info

Jan 20, 2011 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

HOW DO I REMOVE A ALTERNATOR ON A 1987 CHEVY BLAZER


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable from the battery.
  2. Disconnect and tag all wiring to the alternator. Fig. 1: Some of the alternator wiring is at a ring terminal located under a protective rubber boot on the rear of the alternator 85773154.jpg
    Fig. 2: A small box or open-end wrench may be used to loosen the wiring retaining nut 85773155.jpg
    Fig. 3: Squeeze the locktab and disengage the connector from the side of the alternator housing 85773156.jpg

  3. If necessary for removal clearance, disconnect the ground strap from the alternator bracket.
  4. If equipped, remove the alternator brace bolt.
  5. If the truck is equipped with power steering, it may be necessary to loosen the pump brace and mount nuts.
  6. Remove the lower mounting bolt, then support the alternator and remove the upper mounting/adjusting bolt.
  7. Slip the alternator belt from the pulley and remove the alternator from the truck. Fig. 4: Loosen the lower mounting bolt 85773159.jpg
    Fig. 5: The alternator uses a very long lower mounting bolt which passes through the alternator housing and a bushing before threading into the engine block 85773160.jpg
    Fig. 6: Support the alternator by hand and unthread the upper mounting/adjustment bolt 85773161.jpg

  8. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure that the bushing is in place when the lower mounting bolt is installed. Should the bolt be torqued without the bushing in position, alternator housing damage would likely occur.
  9. Adjust the belt(s) to have 1?4 - 1?2 inch depression under thumb pressure on its longest run. Fig. 7: Once the alternator is free, it may be lowered slightly so the belt may be removed from its pulley 85773162.jpg
    Fig. 8: Remove the alternator housing from the vehicle by lifting upward 85773163.jpg
    Fig. 9: During installation, carefully pry outward on the alternator in order to adjust the belt tension 85773164.jpg
    Fig. 10: Alternator mounting, in-line 6 and gasoline V8 engines 85773007.gif
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Sep 24, 2010 | 1987 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Will I need a caliper reset tool kit to change the brakes on my 2007 toyota sienna or will a standard c-clamp do the job? And since it is an ABS system, I assume that brakes must be bled, correct?


Brake Pads Removal & Installation Front To Remove:
  1. Remove the front wheels. Front brake caliper (exploded view) toyota-09-00-5838.gif

  2. Loosen the caliper bleeder.
  3. Hold the slide pin; remove the 2 mounting bolts and remove the brake caliper from the support.
  4. Support the caliper.
  5. Open the brake bleeder. Press the caliper piston into the bore.
  6. Close the bleeder after the piston has reached the bottom of the caliper bore.
  7. Remove the brake pads, support plates, wear indicators and anti squeal shims.
  8. Remove the slide pins and bushings from the caliper support.
To Install:
  1. Lubricate the slide pins and bushings with brake grease.
  2. Install the bushing on the slide pin.
  3. Install the slide pin on the caliper support.
  4. Install the brake pad support plates on the caliper supports.
  5. Lubricate the anti squeal shims with brake grease.
  6. Install the anti squeal shims on the brake pads.
  7. Install the pad wear indicator facing upward and install the pads on the caliper support.
  8. Install the caliper on the support.
  9. Install the 2 mounting bolts, hold the slide pins and tighten 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
  10. Fill the reservoir and bleed the brakes.
  11. Install the front wheels.
Rear To Remove:
  1. Remove the rear wheels.
  2. Loosen the caliper bleeder. Rear brake caliper (exploded view) toyota-09-00-5842.gif

  3. Hold the slide pin; remove the 2 mounting bolts and rear brake caliper assembly from the support.
  4. Support the caliper.
  5. Open the brake bleeder. Press the caliper piston into the bore.
  6. Close the bleeder after the piston has reached the bottom of the caliper bore.
  7. Remove the brake pads, support plates, and anti squeal shims.
  8. Remove the slide pins from the caliper support.
To Install:
  1. Lubricate the slide pins with brake grease.
  2. Install the slide pin on the caliper support.
  3. Install the brake pad support plates on the caliper supports.
  4. Lubricate the anti squeal shims with brake grease.
  5. Install the anti squeal shims on the brake pads.
  6. Install the rear pads on the caliper support.
  7. Install the rear caliper on the support.
  8. Install the 2 mounting bolts, hold the slide pins and tighten 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
  9. Fill the reservoir and bleed the brakes.
  10. Install the front wheels.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 2007 Toyota Sienna

1 Answer

Im trying to replace the rack in pinion mount bushings, r they pressed in and does the whole unit have to be removed


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1 Answer

Front end bushings what are they how are they


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1 Answer

How do you remove alternator from 1995 Maxima


Hope this helps!



0900c152800760af.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 1: The large positive lead connection is protected by a rubber boot


0900c152800760b0.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 2: Make sure the alternator ground wire is also removed



0900c152800760b1.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the lower adjustment bolt ...


0900c152800760b2.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 4: ... followed by the upper pivot bolt. Make sure you support the alternator


0900c152800760b3.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 5: Using a C-clamp to push in the pivot bushing will make installation easier

1995-98 Models
  1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  2. Remove the splash guard on the right side of the vehicle.
  3. Loosen the alternator belt idler pulley.
  4. Slip the drive belt off the alternator pulley.
  5. Remove the four air conditioning compressor mounting bolts.
  6. Remove the radiator fan and fan shroud.
  7. Move the air conditioning compressor forward.
  8. Disconnect the alternator harness connector.
  9. Remove the alternator mounting bolts, and lower the alternator from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Hold the alternator in place and install the mounting bolts.
  2. Plug in the alternator harness connector.
  3. Move the air conditioning compressor back into location.
  4. Install the radiator cooling fan and shroud.
  5. Install the air conditioning compressor mounting bolts.
  6. Place the drive belt on the alternator pulley.
  7. Tighten the drive belt to the proper tension with the idler pulley.
  8. Install the splash guard.
  9. Connect the negative battery terminal.

Apr 08, 2009 | 1995 Nissan Maxima

2 Answers

Lower Control Arm Bushing replacement


Hi,
I just did this job on my 98 regal, and I own the service manuals also. The lower control arm bushing that usually goes, is the front one. The rear one doesn't usually go, it is horizontally mounted. The front one for some reason is vertical. The control arm must be removed, and put in a vise. The front bushings outer metal sleeve, must be driven out with a chisel. It comes out easily. The new bushing can be tapped in with a hammer. Hope this helps!
JOEVETTE

Feb 10, 2009 | 1998 Buick Century

1 Answer

How to replace brakes


  1. Remove the cover on the master cylinder and siphon enough fluid out of the reservoirs to bring the level to 2/3 full. This step prevents spilling fluid when the piston is pushed back.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the front wheels and tires.
  3. Push the brake piston back into its bore using a C-clamp to pull the caliper outward.
  4. Unfasten the brake hose fitting from the caliper using a flare nut wrench, cap the fitting to prevent foreign material from entering the or the hose.
  5. Remove the two bolts which hold the caliper and then lift the caliper off the disc.
  1. Remove the inboard and outboard shoe.
If the pads are to be reinstalled, mark them inside and outside.
  1. Remove the pad support spring from the piston.
  2. Remove the two sleeves from the inside ears of the caliper and the 4 rubber bushings from the grooves in the caliper ears.
  3. Remove the caliper.
  4. Check the inside of the caliper for fluid leakage; if so, the caliper should be overhauled.
To install:
  1. Lubricate the sleeves, rubber bushings, bushing grooves, and the end of the mounting bolts using silicone lubricant.
  2. Install new bushing in the caliper ears along with new sleeves. The sleeve should be replaced so that the end toward the shoe is flush with the machined surface of the ear.
  3. Install the brake pads.
  4. With the two pads in position, place the caliper over the brake disc and align the holes in the caliper with those of the mounting bracket.
  1. Fill the cavity between the bolt bushings with silicone grease. Install the mounting bracket bolts through the sleeves in the inboard caliper ears and through the mounting bracket, making sure that the ends of the bolts pass under the retaining ears on the inboard pad.
For best results, always use new bushings, sleeves and bolt boots.
  1. Tighten the mounting bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) for R/V Series; 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm) for 1988-92 C/K Series and 38 ft. lbs. (51 Nm) for 1993-98 C/K Series.
  2. Connect the brake hose to the caliper and tighten the fitting until the are snug.
  3. Pump the brake pedal to seat the pad against the rotor. Don't do this unless both calipers are in place. Use a pair of channel lock pliers to bend over the upper ears of the outer pad so it isn't loose.
After tightening the mounting bolts, there must be clearance between the caliper and knuckle at both the upper and lower edge. On R/V Series, the clearance must be 0.010-0.024 in. (0.26-0.60mm); on C/K Series, it must be 0.005-0.012 in. (0.13-0.30mm) for 1988-91, and 0.010-0.028 in. (0.26-0.71mm) on 1992-98 models. If not, loosen the bolts and reposition the caliper.
  1. Install the front wheel and lower the truck.
  2. Add fluid to the master cylinder reservoirs so that they are 1/4 in. (6mm) from the top.
  3. Bleed the brake system.
  4. Check the fluid level again and add fluid as necessary. Do not move the vehicle until a hard pedal is obtained.

Jul 04, 2008 | 1995 GMC Yukon

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