Question about 1997 Honda Accord
I bought the car at an insuance auction. it was in a miner front colision, that i fixed. the car runs fine but when warm it idles around 400 rpm.
Here is what goes wrong with the automatic idle speed control, it gets gummed up and slows the idle, do the procedure I have used for years to fix these kinds of idle problems. Follow his exactly or it will not cure the problem, disconnecting the battery after you do the cleaning is crucial.
Here are some of the causes of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
Posted on May 11, 2009
Here is the most common cause of surges (idle speed goes up and down on it's own) and stalls, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
What to check: I dont know if you checked the main relay (possibly "the component under the dash 100 bucks"), when turning the ignition between the first and second positions (not cranking the engine) you should listen for the main relay under the dash to the left of the steering column clicking on and then off, you should also hear the fuel pump whirr on for a few seconds, as well as your dash lights going on etc. Sounds basic but make sure your battery is good.
Secondly pull the ignitor and get it tested at your local parts store (most do it for free). To do that:
1) unscrew the 3 distributor cap screws
2)if facing the distributor from the passenger side of the engine compartment you should see 2 small screws between the 10 and 12 o'clock postions, and 4 wires, right along the inside edge of the distributor. These screws hold the ignitor in place. Unfasten the 4 wires (remember theirplacement) and unscrew the 2 screws. You should be able to slide the ignitor and its metal harness.
3) take it in and get it tested...hopefully thats the fix
4) when installing the new one (or reinstalling the old if its good) make sure to spread a thin layer of heat sink (you can find it at any parts store or computer place) between the ignitor and the metal harness. It will help prevent too much heat transfer.
Posted on May 11, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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