First you need to find where the fluid has gorn .
check for leaks at wheel cylinders and master cylinder i may be leaking inside the car under the carpet thats where it will show up some times or it could be leaking into the booster .
if no leaks are found hold your foot on the brake and if it fades away the master cyl needs replacing.
to bleed the brakes start from the furthest cyl far away and work towards the fron of car will need two people to do properly dont forget to bleed the new cylinder first
good luck lindz
I would say your brakes are getting worn out because if the m.c. is low the only reason its low is because your brakes are worn down the fluid doesnt just disappear unless you have a leak just take look and see if anything is wet underneath.
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So, I presume that you had brake pressure before the MC change, ....? What you need to do first is "bench bleed" the MC. There is a inexpensive kit sold for this purpose, get it at auto parts store, the kit has little hoses that hook up to the brake line outputs and route back into MC reservoir.
Bleed until you get no more bubbles. Then hook up brakes lines and bleed the rest of the system.
DO NOT let fluid level go down in MC, or start all over again.
you may never get the system to bleed if you do not pre bleed the mc.
Not likely that the booster is an issue. The booster would not be able to overcome the brake fluid compression.
First open and inspect all brakes for leaks, adjustment, etc. Check all brake lines.
So if no leaks, did the fluid go low in the MC? If so, pad consumption would eat more than a MC reservoir of fluid, and not require MC replacement, but rebleeding and top up of fluid. If the pads are worn, and you replace them, often this will expel air back through the MC.
If you determine the MC is faulty, bench bleed the new one before install, or you will have lots of problems getting air out....
Well, in essence you disconnect the brake lines, unbolt the MC and bolt the new one on, but you knew that.
What you need to know is you really must bench bleed the replacement unit, or you may never get it to go. What you need is a little bleed kit from aftermarket parts stores. This has hoses that screw in to the brake line fittings and route back into the reservoir, under the fluid level. Actuate the MC until no more bubbles....bolt the unit on the vehicle, (DO NOT let MC fluid run low, or start all over again), remove one of the bleeder hoses at a time and screw in the brake line.
Usually, you would bleed all of the brakes, next. You need all clean fluid at each wheel. and again: DO NOT let MC fluid run low, or start all over again.
usually an indicator of either a loss of pressure due to low fluid and/or air in the system (brake fluid leak) or extremely worn rear brakes (if drum brakes in rear). possible causes include master cylinder (internal fluid pressure leak), external fluid leaks (calipers, lines, wheel cylinders), rear drum brakes extremely worn down or severely out of adjustment. normally worn disc brakes may reduce pedal height SOME, but seldom "to floor". but the "mushy" quote combined with the "floor" quote suggests a hydrolic fluid pressure problem.
Mushy / squishy brakes are usually caused by the brake master cylinder seals failing. You can buy a rebuild kit or a re-built replacement master cylinder. I would recommend the rebuilt master cylinder as all the detail work has already been accomplished and it is not a huge expense. The key is to make sure that your use a bleeder kit to "Pre-bleed" the master kit before installation. Your making sure that the master cylinder is free of air before installation. If you instal it with air in the system it wil take you the better part of a quart of brake fluid to bleed the whole brake system via the wheel cylinders. What will happen is after you install the master cylinder the brakes would still be mushy and until you got the residual air out of all of the lines it would appear and act just like it did before you changed the master cylinder.
check all cylinders, the MC is only one of the components that operates with brake fluid, you have brake calipers that can leak and also wheel cylinders on the rear of cars equipped with rear drum brakes.. check all of these for brake fluid seepage.. reapir as needed... also check for air in the system if the system has been opened recently or any recenmt service...
if you can not find a leak then try to bleed your brakes somtimes thell loose pressure but if your fluid goes low then you most likey have a leak the smallest hole anywhere in the brake system will cause this
Does sound like you need a new master cylinder. On a 2000 you wont need to back bleed. You will just need to follow the instruction and bleed the master and all four points. you will probably need to bleed the ABS block and proportioning valve but only if they have bleeders on them.