At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
The car will start and will idle a bit Lumpy after a few seconds it clears but then you can hold the accelerator pedal to the floor but the revs stay at 800
Consider the complexity of your car before beginning and take your car to a trusted repair shop. Modern cars (mid-nineties or later) are extremely computer controlled, and it will be difficult for you to make any adjustments. You will want to take it into the shop to address this problem.
The stall is likely caused by either a problem in the electrical system or in the fuel system. Your engine stops running because it is not igniting gas in the cylinders, this occurs either because there isn't gas to ignite, or because it lacks the electrical charge to ignite it.
Drive the car up and down steep hills. Does this change the performance of the engine, or cause it to stall? This might indicate a clogged fuel filter. Replacing the fuel filter is relatively cheap and easy once you find out where it's located.
Does the car idle roughly and stall when at idle? If your car has a distributor, you may need to adjust the timing. With the right tools and know how, this is an easy and free task. If your vehicle has fuel injection, you can check the injector by using a screw driver or mechanics scope. The injectors will make a clicking/snapping sound if working. No sound would indicate a bad injector available at most DIY auto parts stores. Also check the ICM, idle control motor that controls the air mixture.
If your car has a distributor, you might consider changing the cap, rotor, wires and plugs. This is effectively a tune up. This can usually be done even by a relative novice to car repair, and take a couple of hours with the right tools. It seems counterintuitive, but even the wires and distributor decay over time, and transmit less electricity. This tune up may solve your stalling problem -- even if not, your car should run better and get better mileage.
If your car diesels when you turn off the ignition, it often signals the need to replace the spark plugs. Dieseling describes the situation where you turn off the key, yet the car continues to run for a few seconds or longer, eventually sputtering to a stop.
In rare cases, your car may stall due to what is commonly called a "vapor lock". It is actually a vacuum in the fuel line that causes fuel to eventually stop reaching the engine. Try opening your gas cap. If you hear a "whooshing" sound, like when you open a can of coffee, it's vapor lock. Now try starting the car. It should work after a couple tries. This is usually found only in older cars. If you have it, this will probably happen again, so your fuel line should be checked for blockage. A cheap fix is to drill a small hole in your gas cap to allow air in and prevent the vacuum from forming, but it should not be left this way.
check everything you can under the hood your air intake system all of it especially make sure all clamps are tight .. and make sure all vacuum hoses are good and not cracking or broken or just loose . you might run a little fuel cleaner through a tank of gas too cleaning the engine fuel system up some. just a few ideas.. Jerry
this could be one of many problems or even a combination, most common are: clogged air filter, clogged catalytic converter, malfunctioning ECM, faulty mass airflow sensor, plugs/wires. take the vehicle in to have it diagnosed professionally. hope this helps.
Testimonial: "I will certainly take the car in for a diagnostic check up to see if they can identify the problem, it seems no straight answer to this problem."
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Keep pumping the hand bleed pump on top of the fuel filter to remove all the air. when started and still a bit lumpy keep pumping and it should clear itself
Here is the OBD2 emission system drive cycle test procedure.
Engine coolant temp must be below 70c (158f) before starting the engine for either the first or second trip The fuel level should be less than 1/2 full First trip: Start engine, idle for at least 1.5 minutes Drive 3 minutes, hold b/f schdl: 1.5-2.0 msec, selector lever "3rd" eng rpm 1,800-2,000 A/C switch:ON Hold the recommended b/f schdl range. Allow road speed to vary as necessary. Drive at 55-65 mph for 1.5 min b/f schdl 2.0-3.2 msec, selector lever "5th" Engine rpm 2,200-3,000 IGN "off" for at least 10 seconds (not more than 5 min) Dive at 50-60 mph for 3 minutes Selector lever "4th" keep engine speed above 3,000 rpm Allow speed to vary if necessary. Do not decelerate for more than 3 consecutive seconds. A/C switch ON. Drive at a steady state cruise of 53-58mhp b/f schdl more than 1.8 msec selector lever "5th" eng rpm 2,400-2,600 Downshift to "4th" and decel more than 5 seconds without breaking, then idle for 1 minute. Drive two minutes b/f schdl less than 2.0 msec Accelerate to 41 mph, decelerate to 34 mph, accelerate to 41mph. Do not completely release the accelerator. A/C switch off. Idle 1 minute in park or neutral Drive two minutes Steady state cruise at 31-44 mph. Selector lever "4th" A/C switch OFF. Hold the accelerator pedal as steady as possible. Allow speed to change if necessary. End of first trip. Turn the key off the begin the second trip. Second trip: Start engine, idle for at least 1.5 minutes Drive 3 minutes, hold b/f schdl: 1.5-2.0 msec, selector lever "3rd" eng rpm 1,800-2,000 A/C switch:ON Hold the recommended b/f schdl range. Allow road speed to vary as necessary. Drive at 55-65 mph for 1.5 min b/f schdl 2.0-3.2 msec, selector lever "5th" Engine rpm 2,200-3,000 IGN "off" add four gallons of fuel Dive at 50-60 mph for 3 minutes Selector lever "4th" keep engine speed above 3,000 rpm Allow speed to vary if necessary. Do not decelerate for more than 3 consecutive seconds. A/C switch ON. Drive at a steady state cruise of 53-58mhp b/f schdl more than 1.8 msec selector lever "5th" eng rpm 2,400-2,600 Downshift to "4th" and decel more than 5 seconds without breaking, then idle for 1 minute. Drive two minutes b/f schdl less than 2.0 msec Accelerate to 41 mph, decelerate to 34 mph, accelerate to 41mph. Do not completely release the accelerator. A/C switch off. Idle 1 minute in park or neutral Drive two minutes Steady state cruise at 31-44 mph. Selector lever "4th" A/C switch OFF. Hold the accelerator pedal as steady as possible. Allow speed to change if necessary.
I especially like the part where they want you to add four gallons of fuel. Not three gallons, not five gallons, four gallons. Gotta love those Nissan engineers. ...and of course they state that if the trace is not followed exactly (i.e. you botch the acceleration/deceleration) you have to start all over again from scratch
Have you run the test to get the trouble codes out of Powertrain control modules menory, that is a good place to start. post the code(s) back here on this thread and I will help you.
×