Hard to get off rotors

Is your hand brakes cable hold the rear brakes? If it does then the cable is rusted inside the cable housing causing the caliper to be holding the other side.. Replace hand brake cables. Or try to release the cable.

Spray a little lube around the inner part of the rotor helps. Then bang away till it comes off.

If the brake fluid has NOT been changed on any vehicle
every 2 years since it was new, you can be assured that after
10 years ,the inside of the calipers are all rust

Replace the calipers & the rubber flex hoses, as they collapse
inside also.

You MUST remove ALL Rust from any surface the pads or calipers slide on & use anti-seize on those surfaces

You must remove all rust from wheel hub face,both side of the rotor & mounting face of the wheels & lube them also

You have to remove & clean the caliper slide pins/bolts & use
the synthetic caliper lube inside there

Need a helper to bleed the brakes & have to start at the back
& do all 4 corners

Look on the face of the rotor. Not the part the pads contact. Between the lug nuts. Many rotors have 2 phillips head screws holding them in place. If there are no screws then it is probably rusted in place and will need to be smacked with a hammer until it pops off. If you are replacing the rotor then don't be shy beat the hell out of it. It is not uncommon at all to have to shatter the rotor to get it to come off if it is really rusted in there good. I have seen it take a professional mechanic with a 3lb. sledge hammer near an hour or more to get 1 rotor off when the rust is really bad.

depending if you have the tools to do the job and pb blaster lock tite and white and dark grease for a beginer it has a rating of 7-8. if you work on cars and know what your doing, then its easy.. first thing is to remove the calapers then remove the calaper mounting bracket spray around the studs and bolts with pb blaster also around the hub and tap around the whole area around rotor dont hit the studs (with hammer) to break the rust buildup this should break rotor free then you may want to clean the rust off so that the rotors seat properly remove and clean new rotors with brake cleaner to get off the film off them (shipping rust retardent) and wipe. spray bolt holes to clear any rust left while removing old rotor and braket and dry. place a small ring of lock tite on bolts holding caliper brackets and let stand till harden or almost hard. replace new rotors install bracket/s and bolts (torq to ? 80foot lb) while replacing rotors replace brake pads, replacing just rotors will over heat new rotors in spots and warp rotors!!! make sure you pull the pins that retain the calipers to the bracket and add light coat of white grease to pins so calipers slides easy and evenly

I'm guessing they're rusted on? After removing the calipers, try taking a hammer to the outer edges of the rotor. Give it a good hard wack on each side (top, bottom, left, right) but for safety sake, put a nut back on to hold the rotor if it does decide to come flying off.

If the calipers are off the rotors should be cleared for take off. haha a little airplane humor. I have had issues like this because of brake dust and rust. Sometime it takes several rotations of the rotor where your hitting it to keep loosening the ****.

Some times the rotors are hard to remove.(rust) Just soak it with wd40 and use a big hammer or prybar. Try smacking it around the studs, But don't hit them. If you smack the part of the rotor that the regular service brake rides on you will warp the rotor. Just keep trying, you'll get it. Also if you mess up the rotor they really aren't that expensive to replace. Plus your old one is likely wore out anyways.

The only reason a caliper would need to be replaced is if it was leaking fluid or about to leak fluid. Calipers are expensive. Even if they need to be replaced in the future you can still use the same rotors and pads - i don't see how it would be wasting money

STUCK SMACK EM WITH A HAMMER