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Re: Break down Jag 2005 2.5 manuel
Well it could be as simple as a weak battery, I would first check the charge in the battery. if the battery is weak on this car, you may be able to crank it etc but there is not enough juice to allow you to perform a diagnostic.
the battery with the ignition off should be 12-12.5 volts.
If the AA guy cannot connect it may be his scanner as there may not be any codes logged into the system. No codes and the car cranks but won't start could be the fuel pump.
Sorry, kinda of a difficult one without knowing more info.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Error 55 is Diesel Particulate Filters (DPF)
Reducing diesel soot emissions by 80%
If you're buying a new car and plan to use it mainly for town-based, stop/start driving it would be wise to avoid a diesel car fitted with a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) because of the possible hassle of incomplete 'DPF regeneration'.
The exhaust emissions standards for new cars have effectively required fitment of a DPF in the exhaust of diesel cars since 2009 when the 'Euro 5' standard came into force. In fact, many cars registered before 2009 will have had one fitted too in anticipation of the change in standards.
Standards aim to deliver an 80% reduction in diesel particulate (soot) emissions but the technology's not without problems - AA patrols are regularly called to cars with the particulate filter warning light on indicating a partial blockage of the filter.
Even if your driving isn't mainly urban/stop-start, changes to driving style may be required to get maximum benefit from these systems.
How do they work?
Diesel Particulate filters (DPF) or 'traps' do just that, they catch bits of soot in the exhaust.
As with any filter (think of the bag in your vacuum cleaner) they have to be emptied regularly to maintain performance. For a DPF this process is called 'regeneration' - the collected soot is burnt off at high temperature to leave only a tiny ash residue.
Regeneration may be either passive or active.
Passive regeneration takes place automatically on motorway-type runs when the exhaust temperature is high. Because many cars don't get this sort of use car manufacturers have to design-in 'active' regeneration where the engine management computer (ECU) takes control of the process.
When the soot loading in the filter reaches a set limit (about 45%) the ECU can make small adjustments to the fuel injection timing to increase the exhaust temperature and initiate regeneration. If the journey is a bit stop/start the regeneration may not complete and the warning light will come on to show that the filter is partially blocked.
It should be possible to start a complete regeneration and clear the warning light by driving for 10 minutes or so at speeds greater than 40mph.
If you ignore the warning light and keep driving in a relatively slow, stop/start pattern soot loading will continue to build up until around 75% when you can expect to see other dashboard warning lights come on too. At this point driving at speed alone will not be enough and you will have to take the car to a dealer for regeneration.
If you continue to ignore warnings and soot loading keeps increasing then the most likely outcome will be that you will have to get a new DPF costing around £1000.
The most commonly fitted type of DPF has an integrated oxidising catalytic converter and is located very close to the engine where exhaust gases will still be hot. This heat means that passive regeneration is possible.
There's not always space close to the engine though so some manufacturers use a different type of DPF which uses a fuel additive to lower the ignition temperature of the soot particles so that the DPF can be located further from the engine.
The additive is stored in a separate tank and is automatically mixed with the fuel whenever you fill up. Only very small quantities are used though so a litre of additive should treat around 2800 litres of fuel - enough to cover 25,000 miles at 40mpg.
You will have to pay to get the additive tank refilled at some time in the car's life, and we've heard reports of dealers charging up to £200 to re-fill a half empty tank.
We're seeing some evidence of DPF systems failing to regenerate even on cars used mainly on motorways.
On cars with a very high sixth gear the engine revs may be too low to generate sufficient exhaust temperature for regeneration. Occasional harder driving in lower gears should be sufficient to burn off the soot in such cases.
With this type of DPF regeneration will be initiated by the ECU every 300 miles or so depending on vehicle use and will take 5 to 10 minutes to complete. You shouldn't notice anything other than perhaps a puff of white smoke from the exhaust when the process is completed.
There's no evidence in AA breakdown data that the problem's going away - newer car models seem just as likely to sufffer DPF problems if not driven 'correctly' as those built when DPF's were introduced.
Check the handbook
If you buy a car with a DPF fitted it's important to read the relevant section of the vehicle handbook so that you understand exactly what actions to take if the warning light illuminates and how, if at all, your driving style may need to be adjusted to ensure maximum DPF efficiency and life.
possible but as the cat converter is a mass honeycomb of openings around 1/2 mm one small spot of carbon would not cause the fault
when a new engine is fitted, the oxygen sensor will take time to read the operation of the cat converter and if the cat is failing as they said then at some point the readings may be outside the set parameters for the sensor
That in turn will cause the heated oxygen sensor to go out of parameters and possibly put the light on
they are partially correct to say not to worry about the cat converter until it starts to break down then it will block the exhaust or you get an inspection and a test ordered
At this point in time , drive it and put some saving aside for a new cat converter and have it changed when you can afford it
I have a 2007 Volvo 670. The check vehicle ecu comes on. The fault code is MID 144 PID 191 FMI 5. THe truck won't go pass 1400 rpm, the speedometer doesn't work, the cruise doesn't work, the engine break doesn't work. I have to turn the truck off going down the road at highway speed for about 10 seconds and it'll go back to normal. Can anybody help?
For this car, check engine light mainly means sensor failure. Chech the Car's onboard computer or the ECU. One or more sensors have failed.
Please contact a Mechanic for the Passlock issue. This is a failure of the Anti-Theft System.
Thank you Sir, Have a nice day.
You mean ECU, Electronic Control Unit, the computer brain of your car. You can get it analysed (and replaced) at your Volvo dealer.
The ECU itself is not likely to be the cause itself, it's probably something else causing the ECU to stop working, like bad wiring, a failing sensor, a broken part, etc. Hopefully the ECU just shut your car down to prevent any (more) damage caused by something else. As stated the dealer can diagnose and hopefully fix this.
Check under the driver side fuse box which below left of the steering wheel if there is any dampness then it s screwing the ecu,this could be due to a seal leak in the window or holes near the axle.ALso the transmission needs fluid to be change as most jag trans fluid need replacing before 75k, clearing the codes will clear the engine light which also improve the cars shifting.
depends on your model and engine. mine does on empty motorway max. 150 km/h and on hill/slop upwards 120km/h. If you let reprogram your ecu for performance may be you'll gain more speed (google it for ecu reprogramming and you'll find more infos).