Engine runs good until hot then rpms go up and the engine stalls it starts back but runs very rough and stalls again . vaccum port near throttle plate when you plug this port off partialy the engine will stay running good

The engine and the Trans are in timing with each other from the factory...If the RPMs are revving up but the TRANS isn't keeping up with the Engine The problem sounds to be in the trans...Unless your calipers are sticking and holding you back....!?...A Throttle position Sensor can give you problems because It controls the throttle but normally if it is faulty it should run rough at any level....Same goes for the Idle Air Control valve....A fault in either of these components will produce abnormal RPMs and a rough running engine....Early signs of a clogged fuel filter will stall you while going up a hill also.....Of course the engine will get a temperature increase because it is being overworked....It may not be as hot as you think considering the gauge reading you described...You would have to use a handheld thermometer for a positive engine degree reading....However if it is evidently boiling hot and gauge reads normal it sounds like a faulty sensor in which case is a different problem....Make sure coolant is full to be safe......m..

Should be on or near the fuel injector supply rail.

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. My 1997 Ford Thunderbird ran like that until I found a cracked vacuum hose.

The IAC; idle air control valve, controls idle speed. This may be gummed up or faulty. But first check for vaccum leaks. These can occur at hoses, fittings, oil cap, dip stick, gaskets. buy a can of spray carb cleaner and clean the butterfly valve and bore, IAC, and use the rest of the can to search for vacuum leaks; run the engine and give short squirts of carb cleaner to the items listed above. The engine idle speed will change when you spray on a leak.

likely your throttle position sensor or idle air control valve. Try disconnecting each one when the problem starts if it corrects you have found the culprit.

the idle flare up is when u start it the rpms go above normal idle speed for about 3-5 seconds then comes down to normal idle speed,if this car is stalling in park then all u need to do is remove the air cleaner from the throttle body and clean the the throttle blade and bore with a rag with some throttle plate cleaner on it that u can buy in a spray can at all auto parts stores and also take the idle control solenoid offhte side of the throttle body which is near the oil cap and has 2 t20torx head screws holding it on and clean the cone shaped plunger on the end of it with the same cleaner,after these two things are cleaned,reassemble the air cleaner and take it for a short ride so it can relearn idle,hope this helps

Try revving it to around 4,000 PRM and see if the CEL pops off. If it does I would say it is a vaccum leak & to check your intake boot & the little hose that connects to it right near the throttle body.

My ti would do the same, but if I held a idle myself it would run pretty rough.

fuel regulator?

check your transmission fluid,the motor will stall when fluid is low

it sounds to me that you idle controll valve isnt responding (could be dirty) get a can of carb cleaner and clean the thottle body inside and with the engine running. squirt just a little and the engine will start to stall and the idle air controll will start to open ( you will hear it start sucking) then spray more in sperts try to keep the engine running at idle . this will make the engine RPM's change and open and close the idle controll valve thus cleaning it. when done save some carb spray. put the air cleaner hose back on. and start the engine and with the engine idling spray around the intake and base of throttle body if the rpms change you have a vaccume leak than will need to be repaired.
good luck
tech rating 3