1986 caddy sedan deville, small coolant fan stays on, large fan wont run, there is power to the plug so put on new motor,no luck. changed relay located on driver side still no luck were r the other 2 relays
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What a pickle. How long did you give it before you disconnected the battery? You know, most fans may continue running for a short time, especially on a car that has been running at normal temperature for awhile. Reason being, the engine will actually get hotter for a bit as the coolant is no longer circulating. The fans shouldn't stay on too long. Most I have seen, less than a minute.
Be that as it may, a temporary solution to the problem, instead of disconnecting the battery to stop the fan-this is not good for the computer circuits who like steady voltage, however small-is to instead pull the fuse for the cooling fan. This is a large (80amp) maxifuse in the Battery Junction Box. The position in the box is F-29.
If it is staying on too long, the bad part appears to be a module or some type of relay-like switching device right at the fan motor itself. There are 3 wires to the fan assembly. One is the power feed from the aforementioned fuse, one is a command signal from the PCM to turn the fan on, and the last is a ground for the motor and assembly. I hope you could detach this device from the fan motor for replacement. Certainly nothing wrong with the fan motor itself. Good luck.
I own a DeVille. Check your large hoses to see if they are warm when the caddi is warmed up. Do you have blowing air from your fan? If not, check the fuses and swap relays under the hood with each other to see if it a relay. You may have a bad blower motor, but check the relays and fuses first. If all those check out good, replace thermostat for warm heating. This will not effect the cold heating. Last and very important. Are you losing antifreeze? If you are, you may have a blown head gasket. 4.1Ltr engines are known for this seeing that most people do not change their antifreeze often enough. Good luck. email me at tvandenhoy@hotmail with your diagnostic results.
if u havent fixed it by now usually it the fan module behind the front left headlight to acess remoce the coolant resivor and the left side turn signl marker their are 2 7mm screw and connectors on each end but u have to remove the sensor input signal wire to se if the fans come on 1st part of the diag do not replace the bcm til u checkl it out 1st usually it is the fan maoule at fault not bcm
Well I'm sure there are kits to wire up electric fans on cars that are not designed for one. You would need a relay and something to turn the relay on. A coolant sensor won't do the trick, the sensor is what tells the computer the engine temp, and the computer decides when to ground the fan relay. You would need a temp switch that is designed to close at say 220 degrees to ground or power the fan relay. The fan motor would have ground and power wires.
99 Deville - have you checked the large fan fuse(s) under and behind the main fuse/relay box ?? (I think this holds for 99 - 2000+ moved the maxi-fuses to the underhood box on the passenger side.)
Also, are your relays on a mount down near the fans ? Some have had trouble with the wiring/sockets there. 2000 or later moved the relays up to the fuse box itself. There are 3 - Fan 1, Fan 2, and a series/parallel (S/P) relay for slow and fast speeds.
Fans run in SLOW at 224 degrees F, FAST at 236 degrees F if there is no air conditioning or DEFROST function set. In the city or heavy traffic the gauge will go to the first tick mark past 12:00 and the fans come on. As the coolant lowers to 213 degrees F the fans turn off and the cycle repeats.
IF you set an air conditioning function, then fans run in SLOW all the time.
If your fans will not run under any conditions, check the large fuses in the underhood fuse/relay box, as well as the small fuses for the fan relays - there are 3 relays: Fan 1, Fan 2, and S/P (series/parallel): the fans are relay set to series operation (voltage drop) for Slow speed, parallel operation (full voltage) for Fast.
REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.MAKE SURE COOLANT NOT LOW.IF ALL IS GOOD CHECK FOR LEAKING WATER PUMP WEEP HOLE IF LEAKING REPLACE WATER PUMP.MAKE SURE COOLING FANS RUNNING.IF ENGINE RUNNING HOT WHILE SITTING LONG TRAFFIC LINE AND COOLANT NOT RUNNING.CHECK COOLANT FAN RELAYS AND FUSE.IF ALL IS GOOD HOT WIRE MAKE SURE COOLING FAN MOTOR GOOD IF COOLING FAN DONT RUN WHEN HOT WIRED FAN MOTOR BAD.IF FAN MOTOR OKAY AND FUSE RELAYS GOOD YOU HAVE FAULTY COOLING FAN WIRING.YOU COULD HAVE BAD ENGINE COOLANT SENSOR OR FAULT IN ECM CODE SCAN TO CHECK THEM BOTH.CHECK ENGINE OIL.LOOK LIKE MILK SHAKE YOU HAVE LEAKING HEAD GASKET.IF OIL LOOKS OKAY.YOUR ENGINE BLOCK, RADIATOR AND HEATER CORE NEED FLUSHING.
Theres a relay (3) and fuses that power up the relays. The computer turns the relays on and if the computer tries and can't it'll turn the cheak engine light on. a technition with a scanner can conmand the fans on. Theres two fans and the motoors can burn out. Some stores sell the whole assembly and others will sell replacement motors. Finding the ground wire and make sure it's a ground and the power wire add power with a jumper wire and see if the motors will run with power added. With the fan relay removed and the key on there should be two pins hot and two pins ground if the fans are comanded on. With the coolant temperture senser unpllugged the fans should be on. Where the relay plugs in one of the wires goes cold with the key off the other stays hot all the time. across from the one that stays on all the time is the wire to the fan, jump power to it and the fans should run. if they do but not good or it draws alot of power from your jumper then the motors are likly bad the one the runns good then just change the bad ole and put in a new fuse. the motrs are left and right as you sit in the drivers seat