Question about 2001 Land Rover Discovery Series II

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2000 Discover TD5 Auto harsh vibration under power at 2000 -2500

At approx 2000 to 2500 RPM in any gear there is a harsh vibration through the car. Lift off and it goes away. Auto shifts smoothly, engine run well plenty of power. No warning lights on oil levels OK. No heating problems or brake problems. Car is otherwise excellant. Vibration is very harsh adn can be heard as well as fel through floor

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  • crablogger May 22, 2009

    i have the same problem with a 1999 Td5 Auto. The harmonic damper on the transfer box was loose. I eventually removed this as it had no bearing on the vibration. As with your TD5 the car goes fine with no other syptoms. I have heard that the noise can be made worse because the transmission brake shoes rattle. I intend to investigate the ehaust baffles as well. Interestingly when running the engine at 2500rpm while gearbox in neutral and running down hill at ~50mph the vibration is absent. So it seems to be dependent on the drivetrain being under load, and not just the engine being at 2500rpm.

  • Karen Gibson May 18, 2015

    I had the same problem. The u-joint on the front propeller shaft was bad and the yoke where there are 2 u-joints had to be repaired also. Vibration went away from 30-60. Still have a deep vibration at 72+mph.



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The "lift off and it goes away" is the clue I feel. This eliminates engine out of balance issues and points squarely to fueling issues. I would say try a compression test (always a good first start before you try much else) but with plenty of power and no vibration except in the range, probably not a compression issue. So, what's left? Fuel or air is the answer. Check air inlet path is from air filter to turbo and (more importantly) from turbo to intake manifold. Check wastegate on turbo is OK - disconnect the wastegate (it's bolted on to the turbo) hose, then **** on the wastegate hose, you should feel resistance. If not wastegate aneroid has perforated. At this point, I suggest taking it to a LR dealer and get them to pull all the engine codes. If all OK, next step is injectors. It's a common rail diesel and removal is a bit tricky, but if you pull them out, you will often be able to see a single injector with all the carbon deposits around it. If all injectors look the same, suggest that at this point you need to take them to a diesel specialist for testing and calibrating. This process usually cures 70% of diesel misfire problems. The other 30% really requires specialist knowledge of your vehicle's engine.

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

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I'm just a novice in these matters, but my td5 auto developed the same sort of symptoms and it was a front wheel bearing. Jack each wheel up individualy and give em a good rattle. If theres any give that might be your problem.

Posted on Jul 27, 2010


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