Question about Cars & Trucks
It should have a drain plug and a fill plug on the differential case. Drain plug will be at the bottom. Look for a fill plug on the front about halfway up or just below. It will probably take a 1/2 inch drive ratchet end, or maybe a larger hex drive. You can tell when you see it.
To get the oil out of the bottle and into the case, you may want to buy a little hand pump that will fit over the oil bottle and pump it in till it starts coming out the fill plug. Otherwise, you will be doing contortions trying to keep the bottle upended and going into the case, even with a small hose attached to the bottle-it gets real messy fast.
Posted on Nov 28, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: hummer h2 transfer case
Only way for this to happen on an H2 (AWD) is for something to break rearward of the lockup hub. Take a look at the splines between the intermediate shaft and centerdifferential or even the teeth on the forward sun gear and/or stepped pinion on the center diff.
As long as you have the t-case torn down for repair be sure to upgrade to the new aluminum mode fork (production upgrade to old plastic forks thru end of 2007 or so). You should also upgrade the rear half of the housing to the 2008 version which has a pressed-in rear prop bushing (better bushing and is also replaceable.
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
At that mileage it could be, and most likely is given your description of the noise. I assume it reduces in volume as you slow down. If you can find a quite piece of road drive up to where the noise is apparent and lightly swerve from left to right. (Don't roll the car!! ) If the noise reduces as you swerve left then its the left bearing. If its when you swerve right that the noise reduces its the right bearing. If its both the only way is to jack the rear up and spin the wheels as fast as you can and listen. If there's a hint of a rumble from it, its that bearing or both. It should be completely quite apart from the slight hiss as the shoes rub on the drum.
35K may not seem much but if you don't know the history of the car it could have hit a bad pot hole or even had a knock on a kerb.
I have replaced bearing with a lot less miles than yours.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
remove cover.take off back wheels and calipers (or drums).turn differential to where you see small bolt/pin (5/16) horizontally (same direction as axles)on right side of differential.remove bolt/pin.A large pin (about 5"long 3/4"diameter) should slide out differential with ease ( you may have to tap one side of the large pin).turn differential to completely remove large pin.turn differential so you can see in the view window.push each axles in (they'll go in about 1 1/2"each) You may hear one of the axle C-clips fall.If not use a small telescoping magnet to remove the C-clips from the axles through the differential window.pull each axle out about 10"so they are out of the diff.Now remove the cap bolts(4-5/8"bolts) and remove the caps(mark the caps so they go in excactly the way they came out.be careful the diff might fall out.If not you may have to use a long bar or 2x4 to wedge and pry the differential out. Have a basket/crate w/rags in it to catch the diff.TIP:If you are removing the ring gear from the diff, the bolts are left handed bolts meaning you have to turn them clockwise to loosen and counter clockwise to tighten ; )
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
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Removal & Installation
2-Wheel Drive - 2.2L Engine
Negative battery cable Front exhaust pipe, if necessary for access Starter heat shield, if equipped Brace rod from the front of the engine and the bell housing Drivers side wheel to access the starter motor wires and the starter motor attaching bracket-to-engine bolt through the opening in the wheel well Wires from the starter solenoid Attaching bracket-to-engine mount bolt Starter-to-engine block bolts. When removing the last bolt, be sure to support the starter to keep it from falling and possibly injuring you. Starter and shims (if equipped) from the vehicle Bracket from the starter assembly, if equipped
Fig. Starter motor and related components - 2.2L engine
Bracket to the starter, if removed. Tighten the bracket nuts to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm). Starter and shims (if equipped) into position in the vehicle and thread one of the retaining bolts to hold it in position. Bracket-to-engine mount bolt (loosely), if equipped Starter mounting bolt, then tighten all mounting fasteners to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm) Wiring to the solenoid Brace rod and tighten the retainers Front exhaust pipe and tighten the fasteners, if removed Starter heat shield, if equipped Driver-s side wheel, if removed Negative battery cable
Hope helped with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.
Posted on Nov 18, 2009
You will need to remove the rear diff cover. There is a small bolt that secures the pin that the spider gears ride on. remove this bolt, and then remove the pin(you might call it a shaft). Remove the caliper and rotor from the side you are replacing, and push the axle in. Inside the differential, you will see what we call a c-clip on the end of the axle shaft you just pushed in. Sometimes this clip if it is in the right position, will fall out on it's own. If not, slide it off, and go pull the axle out. Now you can pry out the seal and replace it. There will be a pipe plug with a square recess on the front side of the differential. You can put a 3/8 drive ratchet in the recess and unscrew it. This is the fill plug. You fill the rear end untill it runs back out of this hole. It will be located about half-way up from the bottom of the differential housing.
Posted on Aug 19, 2011
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