Question about 1989 Honda Civic

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Alternator wiring New internal-regulated alternator being used to replace one with an external regulator. Old alternator had a two-pin small-wire plug, one labled ''F'', no note on the other. New altlernator has four pins, (C) computer, (FR) field monitor, (IG) Ignition, (L) Lamp. Plus, of course, the main large power lead. How am I to hook up the new alternator? Want to be certain that I am hooking things up right. The new alternator is designed for a 1989 Honda Civic. This is for my experimental airplane, a Christen Eagle II.

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  • tdpilot May 09, 2009

    Please reread my statement. I am changing from an externally regulated alternator, to one with an internal regulator. They do not have the same wiring, or the same plug.

    I need to know how to hook up the old wiring to the new alternator's plug. E.G. which wire goes to which terminal on the new alternator's plug attach points.

  • tdpilot May 09, 2009

    Please re-read my problem description. I am changing from an externally-regulated alternator, to a new one that is internally regulated. They do not have the same plugs on the back of the alternator. The old alternator had two wires, one labled "F", the other unlabled.
    WHERE DO THESE WIRES GO TO ON THE NEW ALTERNATOR? Which has "C", "FR", "IG", and "L" connection pins.

  • tdpilot May 09, 2009

    THANK YOU! This is rather a time-critical question, as I am supposed to be giving some charity rides in the plane this morning.
    One final question. The wire to the original regulator which was marked "F", which I assume was a regulator wire to the Field on the alternator, shouldn't be necessary now, correct? It is the other, unmarked wire that would go to "IG" on the new regulator?
    And I do have an alternator lamp wire which did go to the regulator on the old alternator. I will have to run it up to the "L" lead on the new alternator.

    Thanks again. I am a licensed aircraft mechanic, but am always a little unsure when working with electrics. And in this case, I was making a change that is rather substantial.

    Lee Taylor
    Diamondhead, MS

  • tdpilot May 09, 2009


    Sorry, but my question STILL hasn't been answered. I appreciate the schematics, but they don't apply exactly to the alternator that I am installing, and THAT is exactly what I am trying to determine.

    Again, the old external regulator has been removed. The wiring from it to the OLD ALTERNATOR was labled, AT THE ALTERNATOR, "F", and no mark on the second wire. These wires go to a terminal block, and THEN to the old regulator. The NEW ALTERNATOR, for a 1989 Honda Civic, has a four-pin connector, labled "C" (computer), "FR" (field monitor), "IG" (ignition), and "L" (lamp).

    As I understand it, but am uncertain on, the OLD ALTERNATOR "F" lead is no longer needed. That went to field, and is no longer needed, as field is controlled by the internal regulator on the new alternator.

    The SECOND old alternator lead, the second unmarked wire on the ALTERNATOR plug, SHOULD GO TO IGNITION, the "IG" pin on the new alternator.

    And then I will need to run another dedicated wire to the "L" (lamp" connection on the NEW ALTERNATOR to the indicator lamp connected thru the ignition switch, as per your second schematic.

  • tdpilot May 10, 2009

    I HOPE i have it figured out, with your help. I just wasn't certain about it, and wasn't about to start the engine without some definite information. Like you said, it is simple, BUT-------

    Thanks for the help. If you would like a picture of the plane, send me an email at, with your address.

    Lee Taylor



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It sounds like you already have it figured out. That is exactly the same way we installed new style alternators on transport buses. The new ones had their own regulating pack mounted on the side. We had to do several campaigns and we didn't have the lamp wire but the rest is the same. You got it. Good luck.

Posted on May 10, 2009

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IG: Ignition; turns regulator on.
L: Lamp control.
C: Computer. Under certain conditions this terminal is grounded by the computer to reduce torque load on the engine. The system voltage will drop to about 12.8-13V.
FR: Field rate; an output to the computer indicating the Duty cycle (how hard the alternator is working).
The only connectors that need to be connected are the IG and the L as well as the main B+ (Large power lead). The L goes to the lamp in the dash if you have one (If you don't get one! I wouldn't want to fly in a airplane with a faulty alternator!!!). The IG goes to a 12V source while the iginition is on, this turns on the regulator. Hope this solves your problems.

Posted on May 09, 2009

  • Dudeman321 May 09, 2009

    Here is a diagram of your existing setup:

    Here is what it has to be:

    So as you can see none of the wires that come from the old reg. will be any help. You'll have to run new ones to the alternator. You could take off the old external reg and join the Bat wire to one of the other wires as a temp measure until you can do proper wiring. Make sure its soldered or secured well though because i dont want to see you fall out of the sky.

  • Dudeman321 May 09, 2009


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Hi..It's very simple,take off the negative battery connector
1st,2nd,disconnect all wires to altenator.3rd,remove alternator.
Installation is reverse of removal.
try it out..
thank u..
kindly rate my response..

Posted on May 09, 2009

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See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4

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Fig. Fig. 1: Disengage all wiring harness connections from the alternator

0996b43f8022502e.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Once it is unbolted, maneuver the alternator from the engine compartment

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Fig. Fig. 3: Side terminal alternator

0996b43f8020d83f.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 4: Rear terminal alternator

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