1990 Nissan Pulsar Logo
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barry wilson Posted on Nov 28, 2013
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1990 nisan n13 motor 1.6, has no spark to coil i drove car to train station, when i got back the car would not start, replaced coil, distributor, ecu box, all fuesible links, plugs & plug leads, fuel pump is working properly, checked timing belt, set timing properly, have sprayed all joiners from ecu unit to dissy to coil , still has no spark at plugs, hoping you can help. cheers barry.car has no key imobilisor unit, i am not sure if it has a crank sensor as i cant find one, or the cam sensor.

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montehammons

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  • Nissan Master 5,531 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 28, 2013
montehammons
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I can give you a little general help on this. With key on, the coil primary positive wire should have voltage. I think that may be a black/white wire? This is directly from the ignition switch on the run wire. If you have power there, then everything else is in the distributor and controlled by the ecu. I see you have changed the coil, the distributor, and the ecu...check the main relay, it's a power source for the ecu. The power feed to the main relay is a 25amp fuse link (see you changed fuse links, too). Is the ecu on? Key on, all warning lights, and check engine light on?

I cannot find a test procedure for diagnosis. But as I said, everything is inside the distributor. Yes, there is a crank angle sensor, more commonly known as a Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. Essentially the same thing, the CMP sensor sends a signal to the ecu of both engine speed and piston position reference-TDC. The ecu then determines ignition timing-sending a spark signal to the ignition module inside the distributor-then the coil sends spark. The sensor has a rotor plate with 360 slits for 1 degree signal (angle signal) and 4 slits for rpm signal. Has a light emitting diode and a photo diode to catch the signals...it's all sent to the computer. Maybe you got a bad distributor?

mrmalmo82

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  • Posted on Nov 28, 2013
mrmalmo82
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Your car has both a crank and cam position sensor. First start with your crankshaft position sensor. It is located by the harmonic balancer on the front of the motor.

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3 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 157 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 02, 2010

SOURCE: hi my nissan pulsar n13 misses at about 1500 to

Try taking your air cleaner cover off, and rev the engine to about 3000rpm, put a clean lint free cloth or your hand over the mouth of the carburettor and the engine will die. Try to keep it going for about 10 seconds at about 1500 rpm and take the cloth away until it runs smoothly again at 3000 rpm. Air cleaner back on and see if that makes a difference. It is an effective way of clearing jets that are not too badly blocked.

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Anonymous

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 13, 2010

SOURCE: Not starting. No spark. Crank angle sensor?

you my also have a selenoid problem,may sit on passenger side fenderwall.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 27, 2011

SOURCE: Engine cranks over but no

regarding the fan speed for heather motor replace the relay under the glove compartment remove the cover and replace it easy to do.

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91 Ford F150 XLT Lariat 4.9l - no start and no fuel pump start

Tried starting it again and noticed that the fuel pump was not turning on..
this is not true done wrong,
and spark is first never ever fuel first, fuel does not burn lacking spark (gas)
if spark is bad on all spark plugs then fix spark. (all plugs dead)
you really really need to end that fixaction on fuel, spark is bad
the pump only pumps cranked and running not key on
most do a 1second prime most noobs never see or know how to find that out (a fuel pressure gauge is that tool) (a 2 man job)
one at key, 1 at gauge, or voltmeter at pump wires rear. 2man not 1 or learn to crank and see fuel pressure good
and learn this fact, too, the ECU on all cars made cuts fuel if the ECU brain detects spark loss to end crash and burn as seen on TV>
this is done 1 or 2ways or both cuts injectors and cuts the pump dead , on newer cars crash switches cut fuel too, so 3ways
end fuel , deals back to SPARK


its bad wiring for spark and using a voltmeter to the correct spot when spark fails is the only test to do.
91'F150 Pickup, not econoline 4.9L gas.
it has a distributor or TFI-I or TFI-iv system
the ICM must be thermal pasted new install or fails hot.
the SM book shows it has TFI spark. in the real 4.9 schematic.
lets focus ******* TFI 4.9L
AS YOU CAN SEE , ANY OF ALL THIS CAN FAIL AND DO THIS OLD.
BEST IS NEW FULLY LOADED DISTRIBUTOR THIS OLD !
Tests:
1: the red wire must be hot keyon, at spark lost or BINGO1
2:the ecu detectS spark loss at pin 4. input. and cuts fuel faST.
3:The TFI IS the ignitor acts like old points did it charges up the coil then fires it.
4: spark is lost we always check for spark directly at the COIN.
if dead there we know coil bad or all part to the left and below bad.
5:the red/light green wire must also be 12vdc hot keyon,
6: the noise cap not missing ,dead or bad or noise can make the TFI module misfire or act up at random, noise is not good here.
7: that is for power loss etc. the problem seems like wiring bad./loose., if spark is good at coil say so. as it might be and only the ignition suppressor is bad and this cuts fuel dead if bad.
the supressor name is not good, better is spark detection read back filter. if bad ECU CAN NOT SEE SPARK HAPPEN
heck it can even lost or its pins rust after 31 year on the road.


FULL SIZED HERE

https://imgur.com/a/5wCgHKp

FIXYA MESS BELOW.
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1990 nisan pulsar no power to both sides of the coil

Need pdf of Techlink Bulletin TL1218-0702 Can anyone help with this please?
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1991 n13 nissan pulsar 1.6 liter motor I have just replaced the distributer and coil but I am still gettin no spark what do I do

Did you even bother to check and see if the distributor and coil had any battery power to work with before you blamed them for the problem and sent them to their grave? I'm So-o-o-o-o glad I'm not an auto part....No such thing as a fair trial where facts must be presented and proven before you can be locked (thrown) away......

It could be anything in the ignition circuit, including the ignition switch itself or a break in any of the many wires involved....Proper diagnosis required.
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I have a 1991 honda accord I started it like I always do to let it warm up. It started right up like it always does. I went inside to let it warm up. I came outside and it wasn't runnung. I tried to start...

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6223989-ignition_coil_doesn_t_spark . These are generic instructions--specific instructions are pasted below from Autozone.com. If you get stuck, please get back to me.

Use a test light to check for power to the coil on the black wire with a yellow stripe--see procedure below and other tests you can run. You will need a volt-ohm meter to run most of these tests.

The system used on 1990-95 Accords and 1989-95 fuel injected Preludes uses the distributor components to signal the engine computer. The ECU triggers the spark through the igniter unit and coil. This spark timing is controlled by the computer as an integrated function of the fuel management system. The distributor contains a crankshaft angle sensor and a No. 1 Cylinder Top Dead Center (TDC) sensor. Using these and other electrical inputs, the computer controls spark timing electrically.

1990-91 ACCORD
See Figure 6

  1. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and shield.
  2. Label and disconnect the 4 wires from the igniter unit.
  3. Switch the ignition ON . Use a voltmeter to check for voltage between the black/yellow wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present. If the voltage is not present, check the black/yellow wire between the igniter and the ignition switch.
  4. Check for voltage between the white/blue wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON . If voltage is not present, check the white/blue wire from the igniter to the coil and test the ignition coil.
  5. Turn the ignition OFF . Check for continuity in the yellow/green wire between the igniter and the ECU.

jturcotte_639.gif


Fig. Fig. 6: Terminal identification on 1990-91 Accords

  1. Check the blue wire for continuity between the tachometer and the igniter.
  2. Check the resistance between the terminals which connect to the blue and white/yellow wires. It should be between 1,100-3,300 ohms. If not, the igniter must be replaced.
Coil test:
1990-91 ACCORD

See Figure 16
  1. The ignition coil is contained within the distributor. With the ignition OFF , remove the distributor cap.
  2. Remove the screws securing the black/yellow wire and white/blue wires from the terminals. The black/yellow wire is connected to the primary positive terminal and the white/blue wire is connected to the primary negative terminal.
  3. Measure resistance between the terminals. Resistance should be between 0.6-0.8 ohms.
  4. Measure the resistance between the primary positive terminal and the secondary terminal. Resistance should be 12,800-19,200 ohms.
jturcotte_640.gif

Fig. Fig. 16: Coil terminal designation on 1990-91 Accords

  1. All test conditions must be met. If any test condition is not satisfied, the coil must be replaced.

jturcotte_641.gif
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taken from autozone .com

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the highlighted components might cause a code 15 fault
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Common problem - Ignition unit in distributor has failed - Replace distributor.
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Common Problem - Stuck ECU relay - indicated by no pulsing of injectors and no spark - replace relay.
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HI MATE SOUNDS LIKE CRANK SENSOR HAD THE SAME PROBS WITH A SKYLINE
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