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2008 Chevy Uplander no heat from rear heater. The front heat works great and the rear fan blows cool air. I

I assume there must be a valve of some sort that allows hot water back to the rear heater core. Any idea where this might be and is it vacuum or electric controlled?

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Check to see if there's enough coolant in the radiator.

Posted on Nov 28, 2013

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SOURCE: Heater in 1989 Dodge Dakota won't heat

new thermostat

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

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SOURCE: the rear a/c on my 1996 gmc suburban is blowing

the problem is in the rear expansion valve. this valve is located at the rear evaporator core. i am assuming the freon level has been checked and is ok. this is a common problem with these vehicles. hope this helps!!

Posted on Sep 04, 2009

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SOURCE: rear heater core works great fan works but doesn't

checked vacuum hose works good now

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

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SOURCE: 2008 Chevy Uplander has 21,000 miles. Nno heat

Uplanders with the 3.9 engine are prone to no heat at idle speeds. Probably weeping head gasket. Air bubble trapped. Dealers will remove rad cap and let it sit at about 25 deg. angle for a couple hours. Good for awhile.

Posted on Nov 23, 2010

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SOURCE: Hi I have a 2000 Ford Expedition. I had front and

Is the correct type of heater core that use for rear heater?Check fan fix its correct side,or wiring change or return water line is blocked.

Posted on Jan 31, 2011

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Check that the two hoses of the heater core at the firewall are getting hot. If both are not hot, then the heater core is plugged up. Try to flush in this case to free up sediment. If that doesn't work, maybe a new heater core is required, assuming that the blend door is operating correctly, and diverting hot air to the defrost or front vents.

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2008 Chevy Uplander has 21,000 miles. Nno heat from rear heater at idle. Disconnected hoses and flushed, water flowed good. Reconnected hoses and still no heat. Raised idle to 2000 rpm and got good heat....


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Having a blocked heater core will not make the engine over heat. You will just not get any of the heat from the fluid that would normally be pushed through the heater core because your core or cores are blocked (I think you have two cores if you have a rear heater.). The engine does not need your interior heater cores to keep cool. When you select "heat" on your console, either a valve opens up and allows fluid to move through the lines to your heater cores and or an air duct opens to the cores to blow air across them...


Did your heater work before your work?

Does the gauge stay pegged or does it fluctuate?


If your gauge now fluctuates after your work, it would indicate to me that there is air trapped in the engine or bubbles passing by. The air does not cool the engine block as well so the temp will rise quickly. It will then cool a bit as the coolant splashes by. If your gauge is staying hot and never moves, it could mean: you are missing a lot of coolant, trapped air near the temp sender, or your thermostat is not opening. A closed thermostat would make the gauge go all the way hot and stay hot. The thermostat can be checked with a pan of boiling water on the stove. When boiling, put the thermostat in the water and check to see if it opens. It is also important that the thermostat is installed in the correct direction. The temp sensor much be on the engine side. I am also assuming your pump shaft is not sheared and is still connected to the impeller and it is spinning as well. You can take your belt off and move it by hand to see if you feel any resistance. If you are sure the thermostat is opening and the pump circulating, I would then check and see if you have air in trapped in your system. I looked at my Uplander and noted a lot of hoses and metal pipes at a higher level than the filler neck of the radiator. Perhaps, when you filled your system back up from the radiator, that a lot of air got trapped in the upper part of the engine and the heater lines. I also saw that there were little brass valves near were the hoses connect near the pump and on the driver side. I would suggest running the engine and open and close the little brass check valve on the divers side to see if you have fluid or just air coming out. I wouldn

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