Question about 2006 Dodge Sprinter

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Engine 2.7L mercedes turbo diesel with replaced injectors when I bought it.

30kmiles, detonated #1 cylinder..aluminum throughout the engine..oil sump etc..rebuildable??and are sleeves ok to install if we have to bore oversize on #1, Cheers K

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  • 818 Answers

Put a used motor in-if you want to rebuild one-do the used one- cheers Denny

Posted on Nov 28, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I am replacing the serpentine belt on my 2006 1

look on the radiator support or the underside of the hood ,, there should be a diagram in one of these places

Posted on Apr 04, 2010

bad_dog1
  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: OIL COMING OUT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

If oil is coming out of your exhaust manifold you probably have bad piston rings. you can buy a compression tester at auto parts to verify the problem.

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: Cylinder #1 is misfiring. Code indicates open

SUSPECT ECU FAULT

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

  • 37 Answers

SOURCE: number one injector bank on 2006 dodge cummins

you'll notice on your valve cover gasket there is two connectors.. the one up front is your 1-3 the one in the rear is your 4-6... you can remove your valve cover and check the connections from the injector connectors to the
connectors on the valve cover.. check for an open.. however you could also have a fault internally in 1 of your injectors in that bank as well.. hope this info helped..

Posted on Feb 03, 2010

  • 110 Answers

SOURCE: Valve Cover Gasket

the oil was the cause of the misfire, the oil swells the rubber on the plug boots and interferes with the electrical connection from the wire to the plug. when you replace the gasket, remover the plug wires, marking which one went where, and use a spray electrical cleaner to remove the oil. make sure the rubber on the new wires isn't already swelled. before removing the plugs or valve cover, spray brake cleaner down in the holes and use compressed air or shop rags to get the hole shiny clean before removing plugs. remove plugs and clean them too. then reinstall plugs and remove valve cover. when replacing any gasket, use a razor blade on to clean the surfaces well. you can even spray a shop rag with brake clean and wipe it to make sure its clean. clean is important. reinstall cover with new gasket in place and torque bolts... be careful not to overdo it, they are small bolts and overtightening can flatten out gasket and cause more leaks. then just reinstall plug wires and off you go

Posted on Feb 20, 2010

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2 Answers

Why is my newly rebuilt 5.7 350 chev. Engine burning so much oil. It's not leaking, and not smokeing out tail pipe?


what was entailed in the rebuild?
cylinders bored and hone , new pistons , rings
crank grind and new bearings
or was it just a ring refresh and sand paper on the cylinders
I'm thinking the latter ( cheap and nasty)
The oil will be coming past the rings and being burnt in the exhaust ( cat converter if you still have one )
That oil passing the rings comes from , glazed bores , rings being installed upside down, ring gaps not being set 120 degrees apart but almost lining up
worn ring lands in the pistons
Sump oil either leaks out -- Gaskets , seals filters or is passed by the rings and burnt in the combustion process

Dec 30, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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I have no compression on my 1998 corolla what could be the problem ?


This phenomenon is called blow by. This usually happens when the engine compression escapes through the worn out piston rings due to the severely scratched cylinder wall. It also happens after the engine becomes severely overheated due to the loss of coolant or the car is driven with ruptured element air cleaner for longer period of time or due to the aging factor.
In this case the engine requires complete overhaul. It includes the replacement of the following parts to help enable the engine to perform satisfactorily as long as for many years without any problem.
The dire requirement here is to maintain the oil clearances of various parts during the machining process to ensure the reliability and dependability of the engine.
Engine parts to be replaced with original:
- Engine valves.
- Valve guides,
- Piston set (oversize).
- Ring set (oversize).
- Main and big end bearing shell set (Oversize).
- Crankshaft thrust (oversize).
- Timing belt and bearing set.
- Gasket set complete kit.
- Oil filter.
- Element air cleaner.
- Engine oil.
- Silicone RTV Grey.
- Radiator coolant.
Machining:
- New valves and guides fitting and valve seat redressing.
- Valve clearance adjustment.
- Cylinder re-boring and honing.
- Crankshaft grinding, main and big end bearings fitting, and main line checking/ correction.
- Connecting rod alignment.
- Radiator cleaning and cooling system inspection.
Hope that works.
Thanks for visiting Fixya.

May 05, 2014 | 1998 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

My engine has water,can i rebuild it


I take it that you mean the engine has water in the sump oil. IF so yes it can be rebuilt but I would find the reason for the water getting into the sump. It may be a faulty head gasket., leaking head stud threads, corroded timing cover housing behind the water pump impellor or other corroded parts that connect to the sump oil . If you have a cracked cylinder /liner then it is possible for a good auto engineering shop to re-sleeve the motor. But if the motor has been performing well then check all the places I have mentioned and it will be cheaper in the long run.

Oct 26, 2013 | 1999 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

My 1994 isuzu rodeo 3.2 l 4x4 is spitting oil while driving what do i do to fix this?


sound like sump compression. meaning the compression passes the piston into the sump and forcing the oil upward. might be only rings which need replacement or the sleeves needs to be re-bored to fit new oversize pistons.

Aug 19, 2013 | 1994 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Engine smoke


there are a lot of posability's mineral oils form carbon buildup in the rings over time as engine cilinder wear changing to detergent oil after years of mineral oil can flush out carbon causing engin to burn oil, or excessive ideling glazes the bore which causes oil consumsiom, both require cylinder hone and new rings, a hole in air cleaner will dust engine and score cylinder and wear main and big end bearings full rebuild required,but it can be simply a valve seal and oil leaks down engin valve or a blocked air cleaner causing the engine to **** air threw the polution nose sucking air and oil from sump

Aug 07, 2011 | 2005 Jaguar X-Type

1 Answer

Burns up oil on a daily bases. what could i do to fix it??


Two (2) possible reasons you're losing oil:
a) You've got a leak somewhere in the system. Put some old newspapers under the car when you park it at the end of the day. Any leaks should show up the following morning; washing the engine before doing this should make it easier to spot the location.

b) You're actually burning up oil, so you'd need to overhaul the cylinder head (gasket replacement, valve machining/replacement, etc.). You may as well check if you need to re-bore the block/install sleeves to improve compression.

Hope this will guide you.

Dec 26, 2010 | 1995 Geo Prizm

1 Answer

Piece of @#$%


I'm afraid the only advise I can give, is to overhaul the engine.

It's using oil, therefore the piston rings are worn out, as well as the bearings, (Crankshaft, camshaft, and connecting rod) The cylinders may need to be bored larger, and oversize pistons installed, (As well as oversized piston rings)

When bearings are worn, this increases clearance between the bearing surface, and the object the bearing is installed on. Oil squirts out, and is thrown up on the cylinder walls, making it's way to be burned along with the fuel/air mixture.

New gaskets will be installed, which will stop the oil leaks. The water consumption should stop. (Provided you just have a warped cylinder head, and/or blown head gasket. If the cylinder head is cracked, it will need replacing)

You will get Much better gas mileage, and the engine should run another 200,000 miles at least.

Jul 26, 2009 | 1990 Toyota Celica

1 Answer

Torque converter circuit stuck in open. what are possible diagnoses


TCC stuck open in a 4T60E can be either the TCC solenoid gone bad,or the actual TCC valve and bore in the valvebody is worn out.I rebuild transmissions for a living,and i have a reamer for the TCC bore that oversizes the bore,and then install an aftermarket oversized valve to restore hydraulic integrity.What happens is,the valve is PWM (pulse width modulated) which means it basically vibrates in the bore,and strokes many many times per second.Well,all this pulsing wears out the bore,so it must be oversized.But when the bore becomes worn out,sometimes the valve will literally get stuck and won't move.

Jul 25, 2008 | Buick Century Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Oil leak?


Whoa whoa ... You've said that the car takes 7 quarts of oil. That's 14 pints. Depending on which engine variant is fitted, engine oil capacity is either:
  • 5.75 litres + 0.4 litre if the oil cooler is drained
  • Turbo - 3.85 litres + 0.6 litre if the oil cooler is drained
  • These figures are for a UK 3 litre version of the 960
If you've filled the car with 7 quarts of engine oil that's almost twice as much oil as should be in the engine. Did you mean pints when you wrote quarts?

If you've filled it with 7 quarts it's overfull. Way too full. Check your oil dipstick - remove it, wipe it clean and then dip the oil level. At the bottom of the dipstick there is a flattened wider part. The oil level should not be below the bottom of this marker, and nor should it be above it. If the oil level is way above the flattened marker bar - you're overfull and will have to drain some oil out of the engine. An overfilled engine will try and blow oil out from wherever it can as the oil system will over-pressurised.

Ok .. so there's no problem with the engine compression. The crankcase isn't overfilled with oil (the crankcase is known as the oil sump in the UK). There's no oil fouling of the plugs and the car isn't burning oil, just leaking it. There's no misfires or running

If the engine isn't overfilled with oil there may be a problem with a broken/sticking piston ring or piston/cylinder. That high oil loss you mention seems severe. A problem with a piston/ring/cylinder can allow the compression to leak past the rings/piston into the engine oil sump and pressurise it. Under pressure, the oil will try and leak to atmosphere from anywhere it can.

A blue smoky exhaust is also an indication of piston/ring problems. A quick check is to start the car. If there's a cloud of blue smoke at start up which clears quickly, it's like to be worn valve guides. If, when driving the car with a warm engine there's blue smoke on acceleration - it points to a problem with rings/piston.

A quick check is to remove the spark plugs. Is there engine oil on one or more of them? An oiled up plug indicates that the engine oil is finding its way up past the rings/piston - and if oil can find its way up to a spark plug, then exhaust gasses/compressed fuel/air can find its way into the engine oil sump and pressurise it.

Another quick check is to start the engine and remove the oil dipstick. If fumes are 'chugging' out of the tube or oil is spitting out, that's another sure-fire sign that the oil sump is becoming pressurised due to a piston ring/piston/cylinder problem.

If you possess or can borrow an engine compression tester there is a further test you can do yourself to confirm whether or not there are piston/ring problems. Basically, a compression tester is just a gauge that screws into the cylinder head in place of the spark plug.

Warm the engine for 5 minutes so that the pistons expand fully in the bores.
Remove the spark plugs
Fit the compression tester into No1 cylinder and crank the engine for 10 seconds. Make a note of the compression reading on the gauge.
Do the same for each cylinder.

Here's an example of what you might find (the figures are for example only)
Cylinder Reading
1 115
2 120
3 118
4 95
5 96
6 117

Figures vary, but there should not be more than a 10% difference between the readings.
In the example above you can see that cylinders 4 and 5 have readings that are well below those of the other cylinders. This is indicating problems within those two cylinders. The lower compression could be due to a head/gasket fault or piston ring/piston problem. A split or worn exhaust valve in the head may cause low compression, a misfire and uneven running but it won't cause the engine oil sump/crankcase to pressurise. Now, some fine tuning to locate the exact problem:

Put a liberal squirt of oil into each cylinder - something like Redex, WD40 or engine oil.Put a cloth over each spark plug hole and spin the engine to get rid of the excess oil. The idea is that the oil you have squirted into the piston bores will form a 'seal' around the outside of the piston/rings.

Do the compression tests again and note the readings. If the readings go up significantly it indicates that the rings/pistons/bore has a problem. Readings that go up significantly are due to the oil forming a seal around the piston which raises the compression whilst testing. Here's an example:Cylinder Reading on 1st test 2nd test
1 115 118
2 120 121
3 118 120
4 95 110 Significant rise - more than 10%
5 96 98
6 117 119

Ok .. all this means is that cylinder 4 has compression problems due to the rings/piston/bore. The 2nd compression reading (with the oil squirted in) is higher simply because the oil formed a seal. Cylinder number 5 still has a low reading which didn't increase significantly on the 2nd 'wet' (when oil is added) test. This suggests that the problem is an exhaust valve/head gasket/head problem.

If there had been no significant increase in the reading on number 4 cylinder, this would suggest valve/gasket head problem. Low readings on adjoining cylinders (and which don't increase with the 2nd compression 'wet' oil test) would indicate a faulty head gasket between those two cylinders.

I'll continue this article ... ran out of word space

Jun 24, 2008 | 1996 Volvo 960

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