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After adding Wynn's hydraulic valve lifter to the engine of my 2006 1.6 petrol ford focus and using a jet wash to clean under and around my front drivers wheel to remove excess oil due an old leak, my ABS dashboard light has now come on and won't go off! Weirdly, when I started up the engine and put my foot on the brake it felt like gravel underneath - as if I was braking on ice! Any ideas?

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 22,095 Answers

Tut tut ,this focus has shimmed tappets not hydraulic so forget that ,now theoil leak is another thing and i suspect a oil seal on the front pulley RHD vehicle if drivers side ,as for the ABS its got water into a electrical connection and should be ok once it dries out .If a leak on a LHD vehicle drivers side then maybe a rear end oil seal ,now stop wasting money on bits you do not need but ask a local mechanic to have a look for you and some proper advice.

Posted on Nov 27, 2013

  • jason
    jason Nov 28, 2013

    Thanks Colin, by the

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: '98 Windstar ABS and traction control lights after getting brakes done

Prior to the brakes being replaced you more than likely had metal to metal contact which can throw metal shavings on the ABS wheel sensors. This metal shavings stick to the road grime on the wheel sensors showing the ABS computer a false reading making the ABS light come on. On Ford Windstars, the ABS light and the traction control light are on the same circuit. A simple (and cheap) fix is to pull the ABS wheel sensors and clean them with brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner. Make sure you dry them well and reinstall. On the Windstar there is one bold holding the sensors to the back of the wheels. I recommend you spray some WD40 on the bold and wait about 10 minutes before removing.
If this doesn't fix the ABS light and brakes, you can have the ABS system diagnosed at a shop for about an hour labor. (Usally about $100)
I have fixed many of these type of problems just by cleaning the ABS wheel sensors. Good luck.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

csmock132
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SOURCE: 98' Ford Windstar has a spongy brake

Have you had anyone try to clean and adjust the rear brakes? You will need a shop to scan the van for ABS codes first to cure the ABS light.

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

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SOURCE: my brakes are bleed, no abs light on, and no leaks but still wont

did you check the master cylinder? there might be a leak in the brake booster

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

dttech
  • 4803 Answers

SOURCE: ABS light & trak off light keep coming on.

It sounds like "False Antilock Mode" to me. Your Antilock Brake Control Module "thinks" that you have a wheel locking up. This is probably caused by a bad wheel sensor. You need to scan the module to find out which one.

Posted on Oct 23, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks for your help.You have told me more than the "mechanics" I have talked to! I might be on the way to getting this problem fixed."

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SOURCE: ford focus brake light failure !!!

1 - are you SURE theyre the right bulbs! - if theyre too bright they can blow the fuse, if theyre the wrong type of bulb they will blow the fuse.. best get the bulbs direct from ford, they are always in stock, so are the proper fuses.
2 - theres a center brakelight isnt there? check this bulb too for proper wattage and size/shape
Other than that maybe the wiring in the boot is damaged and shorting?? -----
Leave feedback good or bad.

Posted on Jan 21, 2010

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2 Answers

Does this car take a valve lash adjustment and what are the settings


Your car has hydraulic lifters. Hydraulic lifters just means that it uses engine oil to control the valve clearances using a bucket and shim arrangement.
Here's a generic image of what a hydraulic lifter can look like:25949035-hsh3lir2aljnaf1jzrgt1uh1-5-0.jpg

If the car makes a tapping sound at start up, this points to a problem in the camshaft area - including the hydraulic lifers/shims. Valve clearances are controlled by the lifters and shims. It could also be a worn camshaft - the lobes can become rounded.

Usually, there is no adjustment possible with most hydraulic lifters. Replacement (usually) means you have to remove the camshaft, though I am by no means certain about your particular model.

If you have the tools and ability, remove the rocker cover and have a look at things.

25949035-hsh3lir2aljnaf1jzrgt1uh1-5-1.jpg The image above shows a camshaft - the lobe is worn and rounded. When this happens valve clearance is excessive and may lead to a tapping noise. Engine efficiency is also affected.

The image below shows hydraulic lifters (example only..).
The lifter on the left has a 'dished' surface - wear caused by the camshaft or the lifter not being able to 'turn' in its bore.
25949035-hsh3lir2aljnaf1jzrgt1uh1-5-3.jpg The usual cause of this is (a) short trips where the engine hasn't had a chance to warm up properly and pump oil to the camshaft area (b) poor oil/infrequent oil changes (c) stuck lifter.

Before you spend money on parts or repairs, first try adding some oil flush to the engine to clear out carbon and 'sticky' deposits.


25949035-hsh3lir2aljnaf1jzrgt1uh1-5-10.jpg
... follow the instructions on the bottle...
Then change your engine oil and add something like a 'valve train additive' - this will try and quieten the tapping noise.
The (Ebay) link below will give you an idea of what additives are available (and so will your local car accessory shop).

Try the cheapest and easiest first. If that doesn't work .. unless you are confident that you can inspect, diagnose and replace parts .. give a mobile mechanic a call. Those guys are usually quite good.

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Unless the is a modified engine, there is no setting on the valve clearance. It has hydraulic valve lifters and they don't require any setting of the valve tappets.If they are making noise when it is running the you have a bad valve lifter. Unless you can get some kind of lubricant to add to the oil that will clean the lifters, you may have to install new ones.

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Yesterday I jet washed under the engine near the front drivers side wheel of my 2006 1.6 Petrol ford focus and my ABS warning light came on once I started up! I was told it would be water in the electrical...


It's wet again,never use a water hose to clean engine,get bucket of warm water,and some degreaser and a rag and wipe,then wipe again with wet rag.

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It needs a valve adjustment or a complete valve job a mechanic can tell. (I had a 94 same noise, traded it in!)

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it very well can be that depending on the severity of the ticking noise, if it sounds like its coming from the top of the engine, place your hand on it only when you first start it up and if you can feel it knocking slightly and if the noise dies away once warmed up id say its your lifter, if its a heavier knocking rather than a ticking and comes from below or bottom end of engine it may be big end bearing, not good. try putting some engine treatment through the engine oil and make sure you run it in as directions state then change the oil and filter and see if that helps :)

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