Question about 1998 Chrysler Sebring

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"I just had a new brake booster Master Cylinder rear wheel cylinders and rear brake shoes installed, I drove 3 miles and the back brakes locked up. What can this be? 1998 chrysler sybring

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Sorry to but in BUT

is this a high mileage car from what you discribe new Servo, Master Cylinder, Cylinders and rear brakes.????

Try the rear flexible brake pipe/s OLD RUBBER DELAMINATES well worth the swop. For the cost

360 Volvos used to be good at this one only after a brake fluid change

Old British Mechanic

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

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I have a 1998 F150 4x2. When the breaks are engaged the truck comes to a stop.However, when u remove your foot the pedal does not return. the fluid is ok and the pads/shoes are new. If u pull the pedal...


Hello, This sounds like a bad Master cylinder or brake booster. I would try replacing the Master cylinder first as Power boosters rarely stick. Since the brake pads/shoes are new, the pedal must have returned to a neutral position when the brakes were bled.

There is 1 other possibility. Collapse of the rubber portion of the brake hoses. When the inside portion of the rubber brake hose deteriorates, the rubber acts like a one way flap or valve. You only have pressure exerted to the calipers or to the rear drums. The system relies on gravity once you release the pedal.

The collapsed hoses prevent the fluid from returning to the Master Cylinder. It would be unusual for all 4 brakelines to do this at one time. I would suggest you jack up each wheel when the brakes are locked and try to turn them. Remember to have the gearshift in Neutral and block some wheels for safety. You want the differential to allow you to turn the rear wheels.

Go check all the wheels, one by one, and you may find that only one wheel is keeping your truck from moving. That would be the wheel with the bad brake hose.

I hope my solution is very helpful to you.

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89 ford mustang 5.0 i just finished bleeding my brakes and when i brake the rear wheels are not holding but just a few seconds then the pedal starts to ease down and rear wheels start turning . igot new...


If the shoes are adjusted to where the drum drags on the shoes while turning the drum,then the master cylinder is the most likely cause,some times the master will by-pass and cause this,and ,or will leak fluid out the rear of the master into the booster.

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I have a ford f150 that i have redone the brakes but all i getting is a brake pedal and then goes to floor


Bleed your brakes, starting with Right rear, left rear, right front and ending with left front. You have air in the lines or a bad master cylinder. Bleeding is the cheaper of two options.

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Booster is okay, you have to bench bleed the MC, first. So, since it is installed, bleed it with a kit from the parts store, little plastic hoses screw in to the brake hose fittings, and put other end under fluid in reservoir. pump slowly, especially wait at end of release, for fluid to refill piston chamber....pump until no bubbles...

FROM THIS POINT you must not allow fluid in reservoir to go low, or start all over again....

Now bleed the brakes and you will eventually get pressure.

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1 Answer

Experienceing loss of power to brakes


1. What is the Brake Fluid Level?
2. Are you losing any Brake fluid at all? Are there any puddles or noticeable wetness on the ground or on the tires/wheels? With vehicle parked, the reservoir filled (overfilled), and engine running: pump the brakes and check on the ground and back sides (inside portions) of the wheels. Look for any brake fluid leaks.
3. Leaks from Calipers usually means a leak from the caliper piston. The rubber seals will be wet.
Leaks from Drums usually means a leak from the wheel cylinder.
4. In any case of leaks from the wheels - replace the calliper OR wheel cylinder.
For caliper leaks: change the brake pads, and clean the rotors with brake cleaner.
For drum leaks: clean the drum and brake hardware with brake cleaner, and replace the shoes.
5. If no leak is detected from the wheel area's: check under the Master Cylinder for wetness indicating a possible leak.
6. If no leak can be found: you MAY have a rear seal leak in the Master Cylinder which is pumping Brake Fluid into the Brake Booster (that large disk looking thing attached to the fire wall, attached to the Master Cylinder in front).
a. Use a large drip/catch pan under the Van in the area on the Master Cylinder.
b. Disconnect the brake lines from the Master Cylinder using a flair wrench.
c. Remove the two nuts (12 or 13mm?) attaching the Master Cylinder to the Brake Booster. If you have been using a lot of fluid, and have found no leaks, here is a good possibilty that all that brake fluid has collected in the Booster; so when you detach the Master Cylinder from the Brake Booster, all that fluid will come rushing out!
7. If there is Brake Fluid inside the Brake Booster: there is no cleaning that out. Brake Fluid is very caustic to the seals inside the Booster and should be replaced.
8. Of course the Master Cylinder will also have to be replaced.
9. After replacing the Master Cylinder/Brake Booster - make sure you get all that spilled brake fluid off the engine compartment area parts! I use a brake cleaner, then mild soap and then water to rinse. Clean any Brake Fluid off Paint imediatley as it will quickly dissolves finishes and paint.
10. If no leak is detected and the Booster is clear, there may be problems with the Booster One-Way Valve. This is attached to the outside of the Booster and has a hose from an "advance" connected to it. This maybe malfunctioning where you are losing power. Replace this first before deciding to replace the whole booster (in cases of NON-LEAKS ONLY). If that did not work, there may be inner seals inside the Booster that have failed. That means a new Booster.
11. In any of the above cases: Make sure you bleed the Master Cylinder correctly and bleed the brakes (at each affected wheel) correctly. Any air in the brake lines will decrease your braking proficiency or could result in brake failure.

Let me know if this helped or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

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