Question about 2005 Volvo S60

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Location of brake/clutch bleed valve nipple

Can you please tell me where the bleed valve nipple for the brake/clutch fluid would be on a volvo s60 2.4 diesel 05 registration.

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  • markandca975 May 08, 2009

    Hello,
    The clutch peddle has gone completely floppy and there could be air in the system somewhere, so i need to bleed the system to try and get rid of the air. I am looking for the nipple somewhere in the engine compartment.


  • Jmac427 May 11, 2010

    are you trying to bleed the brakes? or do somethin else its a little unclear. if trying to bleed brakes it should be located on the caliper some where near the brake line start bleeding the brakes with the caliper that is farthest from the master cylinder, and work your way towards the closet one farthest is back passenger side if you dont you wont get all the air out, you will know if u did it right the first time you brake afterwards.

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AHH look for it by the slave cylinder it might have a black rubber cap on it to keep dust out it will look simliar to the bleeder valve on the brake system

Posted on May 09, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • Jmac427 May 09, 2009

    The easiest way to bleed the clutch is to use a pressure bleeder. You apply pressure to the reservoir with air and loosen the nut on the line to the clutch master first. Second, make sure solid fluid with no air comes out of the line. Third, tighten the line back down at the master cylinder while the fluid is still coming out. Follow the same procedure to bleed the slave as well.

  • Jmac427 May 09, 2009

    if the clutch pedal is completely floppy i dont think it is air check the fluid level in the slave cylinder/ master cylinder see if it is low if it is top it up with brake fluid for both they are the same system then check for leaks Check that the bleeding screw is not loose. If there are no leaks the problem is either the clutch slave cylinder or the master cylinder is failing. In most cases fluid loss can be found where metal hoses change into rubber hoses. The leaks can often be found at the junctions where the two meet.

    If you have fluid on the master cylinder dust cover and pedal the rear seal in the master cylinder has probably failed. If you have it on the slave cylinder then in most cases the plunger seal has went bad or you have loose lines or a bleeder valve.

  • Jmac427 May 09, 2009

    bleeding the slave is normally a two person procedure

  • anthony leake Apr 27, 2013

    i have done that 3 times its not releasing can u suggest anything else

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1 Answer

2004 ford focus 2.0liter. clutch pedaL GOES TO FLOOR. brake master full of fluid.I clutch master or clutch slave cylinder bad?


a plastic master cyl !

master cyl is bypassing internally

slave cylinder is inside the gearbox bell housing
if its leaking .....gearbox out




26351104-h2ljceqgvzc5xcxajl4olrsz-4-0.jpg

26351104-h2ljceqgvzc5xcxajl4olrsz-4-1.jpeg

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Nov 11, 2016 | 2004 Ford Focus

2 Answers

How to bleed brakes


Bleeding brakes is pretty much the same across all vehicles. However, are you sure that there's air in the system and not a faulty brake master cylinder? The brake master cylinder has rubberised 'O' seals inside which, if worn, can cause a spongy pedal that has to be pumped before the brakes feel hard.



To bleed the brakes you need a length of plastic tube to fit onto the brake bleed nipple on the brake calliper. You can buy a brake bleeding kit which incorporates a non-return valve. The valve allows brake fluid to be pumped through it but prevents air from being drawn back up the tube into the brake system.



You can use ordinary plastic tube, but one end should be placed in a container of brake fluid to prevent air being drawn back in.



1. Locate the bleed nipple. Usually you start at the wheel nearest to the brake master cylinder (and then bleed each wheel in turn working your way to the furthest wheel from the car -if necessary).



2. Before you begin:Put a ring spanner onto the bleed nipple. Put a finger over the end of the bleed nipple to prevent air from entering via the nipple and 'rock' the spanner to make sure that the nipple will actually loosen. It is quite common for brake bleed nipples to seize then shear when turned with a spanner(wrench..). Don't use an open-ended spanner (wrench) otherwise the chances are you will 'round off' the bleed nipple.



3. Put the ring spanner on the bleed nipple and fit the bleed tube.

Get somebody to turn on the engine and slowly - slowly - depress the brake pedal. Undo the nipple slightly and brake fluid (maybe with air bubbles in it) should be visible in the tube.



get your helper to pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and keep the pedal depressed. Tighten the brake nipple.



4. Then repeat for each calliper if necessary.



5. Many cars have a split circuit brake system. That is, the front offside wheel is on the same system as the rear nearside wheel. The front nearside wheel is on the same line as the rear offside.



Here, you would bleed the front brake first and then the diagonally opposite rear wheel.








bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-1.jpeg

Plastic tube with non return valve for bleeding brake








bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-3.jpeg

Generic image - bleed nipple on calliper.








A bleed nipple. The open end is where the tube fits. Usually, you only need undo a bleed nipple approximately one turn. Use a ring spanner, not an open ended spanner.









bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-10.jpeg



Below: Bleed nipple can be seen on bottom right of calliper (generic image)


bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-15.jpeg



Below: Ring spanner on bleed nipple with tube attached.


bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-21.jpeg

Jan 21, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What i need to know is the brake bleeding sequence please



Tools
Small container with brake fluid and bleeding pipe,spanner,fender covers and an assitant,jack and stands
. procedure
1)Fill the brake fluid reservoir to its maximum level
2)Make sure all bleed ******* are tight and there are no nipple
3)Always start with the furthest wheel from the brake master cylinder
4)Tell your assistant to climp in the car for about 10 times.
5)as he depresses the brake pedal,with your container insert the pipe on the bleed nipple then grab your spanner and loosen the nipple,do this procedure on all wheel cylinders until there is no air bubbles seen
. conclusion
After doing all the above adjust the brake fluid level

Apr 12, 2015 | 2001 Alfa Romeo 147

2 Answers

I am trying to bleed front brakes on a 95 Buick Regal Gransport. Do you no which side i start with and how i bleed them. And can you tell me how i know if i got all the air out of lines


There is 3 ways of bleeding brakes that can help get all the air out.
1st is the pump and open. start at any side and keep the reservoir full pump and open the nipple until there is no splattering when you bleed, 2nd is to use an adapter that fits on the reservoir and this applies pressure so you only open the nipple and keep it open untill you see clear fluid flowing through it. 3rd way is my fav. you have a container that's airtight with 2 hoses running from it, one connected to nipple and another to a large syringe, you open nipple and pull on syringe until the fluid is clear.

Feb 26, 2015 | Buick Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to change clutch slave cylinder 2004 ford transit


Locate the cylinder on the gearbox bell housing. Clamp the flexible fluid feed hose to the slave cylinder, reasonably close to the cylinder. Disconnect the feed pipe to the cylinder, remove the cylinder's location bolts, and remove cylinder. Reverse process for reinstallation.
Once installed, open up the cylinder's bleed nipple, attach rubber hose (preferably clear type) and feed into a clear bottle. Open the master cylinder's reservoir cap and brim with clean fluid (usually brake fluid DOT 4 will be fine, unless stated otherwise on the cap)
Now it's easier if you have help pumping the clutch pedal as you will have to depress the pedal and clamp the bleed nipple, raise the pedal. Depress the pedal and open the nipple. Close the nipple and release the pedal. Keep repeating this procedure whilst continually topping up the reservoir and until the fluid coming out of the bleed nipple is clean and free from any air bubbles.
On the final depression of the pedal, lock the bleed nipple, release the pedal and then pump it a few times and judge the feel and travel of the pedal.
If the pedal is still only close to the floor when operating the clutch, then you likely still have some air in the system and should repeat the above steps.
If adequate pressure is available and the clutch operates well, then your job is done.


Be aware that brake fluid eats into paint and many types of plastics over time, so once you are done, then rinse any areas with water only, which came into contact with any spilled fluid.


Tada! You've finished! Road test the vehicle to be sure of a good successful job. Recheck the fluid level after a few hours driving to make sure you haven't any leaks and aren't loosing fluid.

Nov 07, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bleeding the clutch after slave removal on Golf 4 1.6


Mk4 Brake and clutch fluid change and bleeding

First time I've done this on the R and after hearing various scare stories of it taking a while or being a tricky job involving Vag-com etc I thought I'd share my experience today.

Firstly you will need:

7mm spanner - front bleed nipple
11mm spanner - rear bleed nipple
9mm spanner - clutch bleed nipple
length of clear hose - makes clutch bleed easier
Eazi-Bleed Pressure Bleeder - because pedal pumping is for women
2 ltr brake fluid - Halfords Hi Perf 5.1 for me, run it in race cars and it works
spare wheel - for the Eazi-Bleed
R32 compressor - it's in the boot...keep that spare wheel at the right pressure

Ok, this is an easy job to do and very satisfying when done right, improved braking and clutch pedal motion...it should take you no more than about 1.5 hours all in and you should use around 1.5ltr of fluid.

Start off by connecting up the Eazi-bleed as per the instructions, making sure your spare wheel (I used the space saver from my Jag) is at 14.5-15psi. Once you've attached it to the reservoir and are sure there is no hissing (leaks), disconnect the tyre and fill the eazi-bleed with your new fluid. Re-attach tyre to build pressure.


Starting at offside side front, remove wheel, locate bleed nipple, remove cap, attach length of hose (directed at pan/bowl/jug), use the 7mm spanner to loosen the nipple just enough so the fluid starts to flow through. Don't open it too much and always keep an eye on the eazi-bleed bottle not getting too low on fluid). Keep an eye on the fluid coming through the pipe and when bubbles (there shouldn't really be any) have stopped and the fluid seems clear and clean. Tighten up the nipple.



Repeat the process, with front nearside, rear offside, rear nearside...eachtime checking the eazi-bleed bottle (topping up when needed as per instructions) and the condition of the fluid. You should use around 1ltr on the brakes as you're flushing the rubbish dot 4 as well as bleeding them.

With that all done, locate the bleed nipple for the clutch. It's right between the battery and engine and fairly accessible. Again, remove the nipple, fit your pipe, then loosen around 1/4 turn to see the fluid come out fairly quickly..you may want to fill up the eazi-bleed before starting this as it'll take about 500ml to do.

Pump the clutch pedal by hand, it'll go straight to the floor...it's normal. Pump it around 15-20 times keeping an eye on the EB bottle, you should notice some pressure come back to the pedal although it still won't return itself without you pulling it up.

Tighten up the bleed nipple, making sure when you remove the pipe to not get any on your car or paintwork. Disconnect the tyre, replace the reservoir cap and go test your silky smooth clutch.



Complements of this site

Mar 11, 2011 | 2001 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

How to change a master cylinder


a Master rates about a 5 out of 10 with 10 being the hardest

you may find the hardest part is the actual bench bleeding of the master
and/or
the replacement of the reservoir

These are the instructions from my service manual, but I do not remove the fluid prior to service steps 2-6

  1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Disconnect electrical connector from filler cap.
  2. Remove fluid reservoir filler cap.
  3. Raise and support vehicle.
  4. Remove front wheels.
  5. Remove dust cap and loosen bleed nipple. Connect a bleed tube to bleed nipple and into a suitable container.
  6. Pump brake pedal until all fluid is expelled. Tighten bleed nipple.
  7. Lower vehicle. Install brake fluid reservoir cap. Remove air cleaner and air cleaner outlet tube.
  8. Disconnect central electrical box electrical connector.
  9. Remove central electrical box retaining screw.
  10. Remove central electrical box and relocate to air cleaner area.
  11. Disconnect brake fluid feed tube. Disconnect brake lines.
  12. On models with anti-lock brakes, disconnect brake lines from Hydraulic Control Unit.
  13. On all models, remove brake booster vacuum hose.
  14. Extract master cylinder from vehicle.
  15. On models with manual transaxles, remove clutch hose from brake/clutch reservoir.
  16. On all models, remove master cylinder nuts and remove master cylinder.

To install, reverse removal procedure. Bleed brake system.

May 31, 2010 | 2001 Ford Focus

1 Answer

Bleeding manual clutch


is it a hydrolic clutch?? if so, near the clutch housing will be what looks like a bleed nipple, simlar to those on the brake system. basically check the fluid level is topped up, then with help, undoe the bleed nipple while someone pumps the clutch a few times, making sure they hold the pedal down before you tighten the nipple. repeat this until full operation of the clutch .

using a brake bleed kit will also prevent air getting back into the system. top fluid up as required while performing this process.

Apr 10, 2010 | 1986 Ford F 250

2 Answers

I cant bleed the clutch on my renault laguna 2 52 plate it has a plastic bleeding system I have tried everything but with no success Les


You need to connect the pressure bleeder to the brake master cylinder resrvoir,then bleed the clutch through from the nipple on the slave cylinder.If the nipple is not of the unscrewable type,you need to release the pipe from it's clip where the nipple is and then this will allow the air to escape and you end up with fluid with no air bubbles in it coming out of the nipple.If the nipple is of the more normal type,you need to follow the same procedure,you just undo the nipple half a turn and this will have the same effect.

It's best to connect a piece of small pipe with a container to collect the fluid in on to the nipple as you could contaminate the clutch plate with the waste fluid,and if your using a pressure bleeder it will save you getting squirted with brake fluid when you release the nipple!.

If you have someone else that can help you,don't use the pressure bleeder and just get the person to sit in the car and work the clutch pedal up and down whilst you open and close the bleed nipple.You follow the procedure,clutch pushed down,release nipple,close nipple,clutch pedal up,clutch pedal down,release nipple,close nipple,clutch pedal up and so on a so forth until no more air comes out and you have a steady stream of fluid.

Aug 19, 2009 | Renault Sportwagon Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Dodge dakota


i have a 2000 dodge dakot and can not bleed the slave cly how do i do it

Jan 29, 2009 | 1995 Dodge Dakota

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