Question about 1999 Chevrolet Suburban
Never had any problems with my car. had to brake suddenly, then when went to make a turn the car sputtered and made a clanking noise then died. wants to start but does not. Does anyone have any suggestions. help please.
If you have someone to assist you, remove the distributor cap, then have someone crank the engine when you are watching the distributor. If the rotor button does not turn with the engine then you have either broken the drive or your timing chain. this is the first check, then get in touch for the next step
Posted on Nov 26, 2013
Testimonial: "It was a broken timing chain. Thank You very much for your help"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 94 corvette dying while driving
almost positive its your fuel pump letting you know its time for a new one.
Could also be; control module
battery with internal plates touching
fuel pump relay(i would change this one regardless)
Your OBD1 should have a stored code and that will probally lead to your pump or relay.
Posted on Jun 29, 2008
You would have to take the numbe 1 plug out and take the valve cover off .. first run the engine up on the timing mark to tdc the piston should be at top dead center meaning all the way up .. Now with the valve cover off you can check to make sure the valves on number one are closed. if this is the case then your timing is right and your belt or chain is ok... if you have problems with this let me know thanks jerry .. btw did you shoot a little starting fluid into the air cleaner to make SURE its getting fuel ? i now you said the fuel pump was making a noise but you didnt say for sure if there was fuel pressure ? thanks jerry
Posted on Apr 24, 2009
CHECK YOUR CLUTCH COOLANT FAN IT SHOULD HAVE RESISTANCE WHEN YOU TURN IT WITH YOUR HAND.IF ITS LOOSE AND WOBBLEY.NEED REPLACING.THAT CAN CAUSE CAR TO OVERHEAT.ALSO IF YOU LIVE IN HOT CLIMATE.YOU NEED 50/50 ANTIFREEZE AND WATER.TOO MUCH WATER CAUSE ENGINE TO OVERHEAT.YOU NEED ANTIFREEZE MIXTURE TO RAISE BOILING POINT.TO HELP ENGINE COOL BETTER.NOW THE STARTING PROBLEMS.CLEAN BATTERY CABLES IF CORRODED.IF THEY ARE OLD BEEN ON CAR A WHILE REPLACE THEM.IF BATTERY CABLES IS GOOD. HAVE STARTER CHECKED REMOVE IT TAKE IT TO AUTO ZONE OR ADVANCE AUTO PARTS.SOUND LIKE A BAD STARTER HIT IT WITH HAMMER AND IT CRANK.
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
SOURCE: turns over then dies right away.
check spark plug wires to make sure they"re not miss-routed... start at the coils and work towards the plugs make real sure its got correct firing order sequence... it is usually posted on a label under the hood of most cars and also make sure they have a real good snap on connection both on coil and plugs and that the terminal posts on the coils are really clean! if this doesn't fix the problem then it probably is a timing chain problem..it might not be installed correctly. good luck to you! i hope its just a miss wire.
can you give me some feed back..i'm curious..thanks! a 40k mile car shouldn't need this kind of work..its practically brand new!!
Posted on Sep 30, 2009
First of all, I'd be returning this vehical back to the mechanics who obviously did not test drive the vehicl before or after the aparent fix. I'd tell them that i paid you to fix a problem that isn't fixed.
Now that we have that out of the way... some clarification is needed. from what i can tell this struggle for acceleration didn't start till after the "fixed" e-brake right. I'm not 100 percent but i think this year has rear drum brakes... correct me if i am wrong. if they are rear drum, there is an automatic adjustment sproket that "tightens" the e-brake when you reverse and stop. now it seems to me that the new brakes are not fully releasing as they should.
if you have no experience with brakes, I'd go yell at that mechanic and get it fixed... for no more money. You've already paid for the service that you have not recieved.
Posted on Mar 27, 2010
Testimonial: "Took it back, demanded owner of shop test drive with me in car. Admitted something was still wrong, and concluded it was not brakes, but clutch?"
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