Question about 2000 Nissan Maxima
2003 Nissan Maxima, check engine light on. Car will start and drive but upon turning engine off, makes a ticking/clicking sound (sounds like in dash) and then car is completely dead when trying to restart. After about 5 minutes, clicking sound stops and then car will start. Have replaced battery. Repair place says not the alternator. Sometimes dies at stop light/stop sign. Check engine light seems to always be on more than off since we bought it. Always have had general maintenance on this car.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check to see if the floor on the passanger side is wet. If so, than your A/C drain clogged up and your ECM/computer got flodded by water causing all sorts of funky stuff happening. Right next to the gas pedal is a small cover attached to the computer. It has a clip in it. Remove the clip and tug on the cover. Look at the top of the computer to see if its rusted up. Remove the other side cover also, which is on passanger side floor next to your left foot(if you sitting in passenger seat). and check other side of ECM/computer. Check the ECM for rust on top.
If ALL of that looks OK, than I would replace the switch,(since you are telling me that the key got VERY hot) that is mounted on the back of the ignition cylinder. Its a white round switch that failes after a while especially car beeing 1996, just think about how many times that ignition has been turned ON/OFF since 1996. The mechanism in the switch failes, causing starting issues and funky electrical issues.
Does the car have a remote starter installed?? Or didi it have one in the past?? I have seen companies that install them cause some damage to the harnesses on the switch that is mounted to the back of the igniton cylinder. They use "scotch locks" to connect the remote starter and after a while the connection corrode and cause problems too.
Anyways, check the computer for rust first. Than I would install that switch on back of the igniton. You can buy the switch seperately. You dont need the whole ignition assembly/switch only. Switch is pretty cheap (approx $50 ?). Try that and post results. I would feel pretty good about the switch beeing faulty. I have ssen them fail in the past and that's where your power comes into for the starter circuit.(key getting HOT, switch shorting out, making the key hot and starting the car without the key)
Posted on Jul 27, 2008
this problem could be caused by the mass air flow censor, i had the same problem with my car. it is really pricey at the dealer so you might want to check elsewhere for this part. I found one at a scrap yard for 85% less that the dealer and i also got life time warranty, the dealer does not offer any warranty on this part.
Posted on Oct 22, 2008
SOURCE: 1991 nissan maxima
I just went thru this on mine... it is easiest to get to from the bottom right corner... remove the shields and it's right there... take the lower adjustment bolt out , the upper rear bolt and the upper outer bolt out , drop it down and swap wires and replace . Tip; a shorty phillips screw driver works well to allign the holes on the upper rear bolt. DO NOT tighten any of the bolts untill they are all in.
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
You may have bad solenoid, starter/battery/solenoid connections, or gound.
Check voltage at starter solenoid when somebody turns key to start. That is where the starter switch, or relay, sends the voltage to pull in the solenoid coil through small wire. I think the solenoid is on the starter for this car, but it may be separate. Autozone has an excellent web site with car-specific repair guides and instructions. You should see 12V at solenoid every time the key is turned to start.
Check big power cable to starter that runs direct from the battery for tight connections. If you have a separate solenoid, then another big cable runs from it to starter. A loose or bad connection could be the culprit. Also check starter mount bolts. They need to be tight for a good solid electrical ground. You also need good ground from frame to engine. Its a long shot, but sometimes the ground straps come loose or burn. You can easily check this by measuring resistance between engine block and negative battery terminal. It should be zero or darn near zero (less than 1 ohm ?).
The solenoid is really a heavy duty swich to handle the high amp load to the starter. It works by a coil that pulls in the big switch. The coil operates from the starter switch and needs onlyt low current and small wire. If the coil wires burn up or there is a bad connection, it won't work. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
recently had this problem, take two credit cards or id, and use them as tweezers to pull out cd(s). It works better, faster, and does little to none scratches on your cd(s).
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
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