Question about 1999 Dodge Ram

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Rad hot top to bottom new stat fitted pies into heater matrix one hot other cool rad back flushed and heater mattrix

Cooling seystem back flushed new stat fittedpipes into heater matrix one hot other cool

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  • Dodge Master
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Be sure that cooling system has been bled properly after . Start engine while cold with cap off, and heater on. Let engine get up to normal operating temperature and allow thermostat to open and close 2 or 3 times and rev engine slightly once in a while for 5 seconds or so to help improve flow. If you have rad where you can actually look in and see flow, that's better otherwise watch coolant return bottle and temperature gauge. Feel if any difference at heater as you bleed air out. Once you start to feel better /good heat, then it should be bled properly, then top up coolant return bottle and re-install cap properly. Let me know if that helps.

Posted on Nov 29, 2013

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j_del
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SOURCE: BOTTOM RAD HOSE COLD TOP HOT. ENGINE TEMP ABOUT

Did you burp the air out of the system after changing those parts? It sounds like the thermostat isn't opening which is why the lower hose is still cold. Click my screenname, go to my tips and tricks, and choose the one about burping the cooling system - it may help you out.

Posted on Jan 28, 2010

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Flushed the heater core changed thermostat, water pump is good, changed fuse, heater was throwing heat but was over heating,checked radiator(flushed and added new fluid) now back to no heat


no, not special but you failed to stated engine, there are many engines.
and some are very tricky here, like 2.0L.
First state the symptoms,
your post states its overheating, then no heat. (why?)
old post. but others might
Ill post , overheating ,
Example if me, with overheat.
I see my dash gauge, show overheating and engine power drops and pings, then steam vents from the rad, cap?
Over heating (ill skip cab heater but on 2L this path blocked causes thermostat to go quite nuts. not posting engine, makes this hard.)
1: full of 50% AF (antifreeze)
2: new thermoSTAT they age and fail fast. so get a new one.
put STAT in with the wax slug down, and jiggle bleed pin forward.
get air out of system after filling, (RTM)
start car, and....
4: then using and IR pyro gun we then check that
the thermostat housing hits 170F min. but not too hot.
run motor till top rad hose gets too hot to touch 180f is normal.
I had to drive 10 miles, to get it up to 180F.
my car has the hotter, 195 STA,T so runs at 195f. (helps cooling)
USING the pyro gun , the top and bottom of each rad tube.
This tool is Amazing.... and saves burn hands.
if the bottom of any RAD tube is way less than the others?, that is
a clogged UP rad tube. solution is , NEW RAD.
Usually rad repairs, are more costly than new. IN USA.
The water pump must spin at full speed, belt tight.
The impeller or some suz, motors likes disappear. from electrolysis action. so not looking at the impeller is a FAILURE on the mechanic side.
if this car has 2.0 I-4 (4 banger) it has a coolant tube on the rear
of the STAT housing, this tube must flow coolant at all times.
if it dont, the thermostat , will go nuts.
nuts means, that insufficient flow passes the thermostat wax block
causing the thermostat to cycle in a wild and random way.
I dont like this design but is reality. If applicable.
post country, post engine type and state the symptoms.

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If your top rad. hose is cool and the engine is smoking hot, it probably is a blown head gasket. What does you temp gauge read ?

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BOTTOM RAD HOSE COLD TOP HOT. ENGINE TEMP ABOUT 160 WONT GET HOTTER THAN THAT NEW RAD, THERMOSTAT, HOSES ,WATER PUMP, COOLING FAN CLUTCH, BACK FLUSHED HEATER CORE ALSO, HEAT WILL GET WARMER WHEN RPM GO...


Did you burp the air out of the system after changing those parts? It sounds like the thermostat isn't opening which is why the lower hose is still cold. Click my screenname, go to my tips and tricks, and choose the one about burping the cooling system - it may help you out.

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