Question about 1988 Ford Ranger

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Clutch problems clutch push rod came out of cylinder under dash, can not push it back in, truck won't start. I need help with this. what am I doing wrong?

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  • Master
  • 1,198 Answers

I had an '89, clutch was hydraulic. Until you can figure this out, you may be able to bypass the clutch safety switch to get the truck started. A Haynes book will tell you how to put it back together, but if something fell out all by it's own, something's broke.

Posted on Nov 26, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 94 ford aerostar tierod

yes and the new tie rod will come with a new one just cut it off with cutting pliers

Posted on Sep 12, 2008

DAD5bbbbg
  • 111 Answers

SOURCE: Clutch will not Engage

You need to bleed it out. It takes some time to do this. There is a bleeder valve above the hose fitting on the tranny. Have some one pump the clutch and hold it down and crack the bleeder nut. Just like you would when you do your brakes.

Posted on Apr 05, 2009

  • 164 Answers

SOURCE: replaced the clutch master cylinder on 94 ranger

jack up the front end-way up. itll get the end of the master up high enough to allow the air trapped air to be bled

Posted on Sep 04, 2009

warlock61
  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: The small cylinder under the dash on the clutch

that is the clutch master, the slave is on the trans

Posted on Jan 30, 2010

BangEmBoy
  • 40 Answers

SOURCE: wiring diagram for e350 ford van air conditioner

You seem mechanically inclined, so I want you to try this before you do anything else; let's decern whether or not the clutch is any good .

I want you to unplug the the plug that plugs into the compressor . Just in case there is a possible short somewhere, clip the wire's to the plug, but leave enough wire to reconnect them back . Attach two pieces of wire to the wire's on the plug that you just clipped, making them long enough to reach the battery . Plug the plug back into the compressor . After skinning the wire's on the other end, touch one to the positive (+) side of the battery, and the other to the negative (-) side of the battery . When you do this, you should hear a click from the clutch of the compressor, if you don't then the clutch is bad, if you do; then you are low on freon, your low pressor swith is bad, or you have wiring problem's .

Posted on Sep 10, 2012

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1 Answer

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most modern cars do not have an adjustment on the clutch slave cylinder push rod
it relies on the system being in good condition and the fingers of the pressure plate push the throw out bearing back and that pushes the slave cylinder back in far enough
If the push rod is under tension then there is a problem in the compensating port of the clutch master cylinder and the fix for that is a new master cylinder.

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The axle job should not have caused any problem to develop in the clutch.
I don't see how they could have.
If you can work the slave by hand, it may be a problem with the clutch master cylinder. Maybe the rod from clutch pedal into the master is bent or binding up and won't travel into the master. You could check if master operates easily by taking line off at the slave cylinder (or if not able to remove hose, then open the bleeder valve on slave) and see if your pedal operates now. Use a can to catch fluid if you don't want it to spill on floor. If the pedal still won't move it must be a problem with the master cylinder or the clutch rod.
If the pedal works with line removed, or the bleed valve open, then the release bearing inside the bellhousing must be binding up and not moving forward to engage clutch. (The slave cylinder pushes the clutch fork lever which pushes the release bearing forward on a shaft up against the clutch pressure plate to allow the clutch to operate .If the release bearing is the problem, the transaxle will have to be removed to fix it.
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I just paid a small fortune to have a whole new clutch system put into my truck it is a 7.3 with a 5 spd standard ****** I bought everything new from the master cylinder all the way down to the throw...


If you have the non adjustable clutch push rod, the adjustment proceedure is to remove the clutch rod arm from the clutch shaft under the dash and reclock it so it pushes the clutch rod in farther...also check to make sure the master cylinder is full of dot 3 fluid and the system has no air in it.

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I have a 2004 holden rodeo dual cab, was driving on the highway changed the car into 5th and the clucth pedal never sprung back out, u can manually pull it back but the pedal is just slack when u push it...


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you should be able to move car forward by selecting 1st then cranking engine till it starts, gear changes while driving are hard but not impossible. i recommend a tow truck to a local repairer.

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Your clutch hydraulic system is compromised. Look under the dash, where the clutch pedal has a rod going thru the firewall. If it is damp with oily fluid, your clutch Master Cylinder is leaking. Also, on the side of the transaxle, there is another cylinder, the clutch Slave Cylinder. It can be leaking, also. In any case, with a condition such as yours, I would recommend that you replace both the clutch master and slave cylinders. Over time, they can wear ionterally, and no develop the proper flui pressure to release the clutch.

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1 Answer

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