From the research that I've done, the Jeep seems to have a carburetor problem. (Wants to die when idling.) What I need to know is, how do I open up the carburetor to clean it? If needed I will try to provide pictures.
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Turn in the idle speed screw on the carburetor throttle-raise the idle some, it will open the throttle plate a bit when you turn the screw in. Idle speed should be about 800 rpm's, with truck in drive, foot on brake, and engine at normal operating temperature. If it still dies with the idle raised, it might need a tune-up-plugs, wires, dist. cap and rotor, and new filters. Good luck.
This is probably an engine using a carburetor. If it starts and idles good and dies when the accelerator is pressed it is probably the accelerator pump on the carburetor. The accelerator pump supplies the fuel to operate the engine in this transition period from idle to part throttle until the venturi effect catches up to draw the necessary fuel the engine needs to continue running at the current demanded rate of speed. If the butterflies are opened and there is not sufficient fuel squirted into the engine when larger amounts of air are in demand it starves for fuel and thus stalls.If it is fuel injected then you have other problems, but my guess is it is a carburetor version. Ford went to fuel injection in 1990. You can just purchase the power valve if needed. You don't need the complete kit. Good luck
Sure you have a carburetor? Likely you have injection and the item you are looking at is the throttle position sensor (I'm guessing on that because you are a bit vague there) That is non adjustable and should slide right onto the throttle shaft. Only other thing it could be is the idle air valve. If that is installed incorrectly it may not seat right and will give you starting or really bad idle problems. There are tests to see if either is working and usually if one isn't it will set a readable code in the computer memory. Have a code test done (most larger auto parts stores do that free) and get a chilton or haynes manual for individual tests and instructions. Can't do much more with such limited info though... good luck!!! If you have any other questions as you get into it, feel free to ask!
Check: - Fresh Air Intake Hose:
Clogged or Damaged FreshAir Intake Hose. - Carburetor:
Worn, Faulty or Damaged Carburetor. - Mass Air Flow Sensor:
Damaged, Loose, or Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor or Circuit. - EGR Valve:
EGR Valve Sticking Open/Leaking. - Idle Air Control Valve:
IAC Valve Sticking or Faulty.
I had a very similar problem with a 1990 Wrangler with the 4.2L six - Carter carburetor. Another website suggested checking the idle tubes in the carburetor that turned out to be my problem. One indication is that if the curb idle is set way up to keep the engine from dieing, adjusting the idle screw does nothing (no idle fuel is being supplied). To clean the tubes, it is possible to remove the top or air horn component of the carburetor without removing the carb from the engine. Some linkages have to be removed and some hoses disconnected. It is a little tricky but can be done. A book such as Chilton's is good for some guidance. The venturi cluster can then be removed from the main body (still on the engine) by removing a couple of screws. The two tubes hanging down from the venturi cluster are the idle fuel pick-up tubes. I could see these to be clogged at their lower end. There was also a lot of gunk at the bottom of the wells they draw from. I cleaned the tubes with some fine wire, compressed air and solvent. I also cleaned inside the wells as best that I could. Getting the air horn back on is a little tricky - mainly getting the metering rods reset into the metering jets (the two brass rods that hang down from the air horn body. This is facilitated by removing the bowl vent cover and manipulating the tops of the brass rods until they drop into the metering holes. Another option is just to get a carb overhaul kit and remove the whole carb and rebuild it according to instructions. I will probably do this eventually but have fixed it for now.
These jeeps are carbeurated, with heavy emissions systems forced down the throats of Jeep. There are insane Vacuum systems that are too complex to deal with. What I did, (I have the 4.2L) was go out and purchase the Weber kit. I am not selling the part for them, I am actually a happy owner. Mine would die every time I came to a stop. I swapped out the junk and popped in the Weber. I have had no carb problems what so ever. I even eliminated the messy vacuum system! I payed about 200 bucks on Ebay, but from Weber direct they cost around 300. Good luck!
Idle prolem could be a dirty throttle body or sticky air idle control motor.
If the Jeep is a 6 cly. the adjustment for the belt is the power steering pump.
If the Jeep is an 8 cyl. the tensioner is on the pass. side of car.
My truck was doing the same thing.... replaced the crankshaft sensor first, truck would still die after about 10 minutes of idleing, it back-fired thru the engine and blew off the back of the intake manifold. Pulled the monifold, reglued end-cap and put back in truck. STILL died after idleing for 10 minutes. Code PO320 kept coming up ( crankshaft sensor) researched it and found a bad camshaft sensor can cause crankshaft sensor to act up and give code for the crankshaft sensor. Replaced camshaft sensor and the truck runs like a dream !!!!!! I believe the Manifold was cracked for a while causing the 1299 code reading ( vacuum leak) the back-fire finished it off! I would check the back of your intake manifold for a leak. The combination of fixing the vacuum leak , cam/crankshaft sensors seems to have fixed the problem. GOOD LUCK!!!