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Replace Slave Cylinder 2002 VW transporter

Do you remove just the tranny or the tranny with the bellhousing

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The heading is replace slave cylinder of 2002 vw transporter. Why would you be removing the tranny to do this job as the slave cylinder is on the outside of the bell housing. IT is normal to remove the bell housing with the tranny as they are normally one unit as the bolts are inside and cannot be reached until the tranny is on the ground. Having said that, if there are 4 bolts in a flange outside the tranny proper and the bell housing is tightened with these bolts then you can remove the tranny separate to the bell housing.

Posted on Nov 25, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Replacing a Slave Cylinder

Hi there, it's a bit fiddly to say the least. To begin with, access is a REAL problem as it is located on top of the bell housing which is right at the back of the engine bay under the bulkhead (firewall). If your car has abs there are several brake lines which further restrict access. The unit is held in place with a roll pin which has to be driven out with a hammer and the correct sized drift. This involves lying across the engine and reaching through the brake lines, down under the bulkhead with both hands to get the roll pin out-there's virtually no room to swing the hammer. If you're really lucky your slave cylinder could be held in with a singe bolt- much easier to get at. Once the pin or bolt has been removed, the fun really starts. The cylinder will almost certainly be very well seized in so use lots of penetrating/release oil around it and try to rotate it in its housing to allow it to be worked free. Don't be tempted (like I was) to try knocking it out with the drift and hammer as the cylinder is likely to break which will necessitate removal of the gearbox to get it out. This is the strategy (gearbox removal) adopted by Audi workshops as they are aware of the access problem. If the car is a Quattro variant (as mine is), this is a very involved procedure requiring removal of exhaust system, propshaft, driveshafts, gear change linkage, associated wiring (very innaccessible) and finally the (incredibly heavy) gearbox. (As I did). Once you get it all back together again, the bleeding of the hydraulic line to remove air can also be problematic (as mine still is).
So there you have it, you could be lucky and the slave cylinder might just pop right out and I hope it does. It's worth using copper grease around the cylinder before you instal it as this will greatly ease subsequent removal, should the need arise. It is even more worthwhile to check that it is actually the slave cylinder which is the problem and not the master cylinder (as mine was!) as this is an infinitely although still "trying" job to carry out.
Good luck, don't hesitate to get back to me with any further questions, cheers,Bob.

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

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SOURCE: how to remove clutch slave cylinder on a 95 sunfire

no you dont have to pull the tranny to get to the slave should be located on the drivers side almost under the door or right in front of the door, at least thats where mine was at

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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SOURCE: after replacing starter and removing slave cylinder, clutch fails to work

sounds like you have a air pocket or you fail to engage the slave cylinder push rod If you disconnected the slave cylinder from the hose proceed to bleed out the slave cylinder if you didn't take you slave cylinder and whit out disconnecting the hose and make sure the push rod is against the clutch push arm.

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

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