Question about 2003 Kia Sedona

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I cant remove the metal end and spline inside of my kia sedona

I removed the passenger side cv joint. the metal end and the spline stayed inside and wont come off.

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  • Kia Master
  • 5,401 Answers

Try to get a pry bar or large screwdriver between the CV housing and the transmission case. A little force may be required, but you have to pop the housing out of the transmission. A c-clip in a groove on the splined shaft is holding the shaft in, and must be popped outward, for the housing and shaft to be removed.

Posted on Nov 25, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 110 Answers

SOURCE: cv joints

Have them replace the entire axle with a rebuilt for aound $70-100 cost.  After they buy the CV and the boot kit, you will be close to that amount ... and they will still have to get the joint off the boot on, the cv on and attach the boot to the joint and shaft ... sometimes these boot kits don't fit right .. and they haven't done many and may not realize it doesn't fit right!

Posted on Oct 31, 2008

  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: roaring in front end of 2004 kia sedona.

most likely a wheel bearing. to determine which one, lift up the car so wheels are in the air. grab onto the strut spring, and spin the wheel. You should fell roughness in your hand on the wheel that is bad, the good wheel will fell smooth.

Posted on Sep 17, 2009

toomanyparts
  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: How to remove knuckle / hub from front axle?

most likely the bearings in the hub are rusted to the axel. If you work at it you can use a point air chisel to push the axel shaft out you will have to replace the bearing in the hub. worst case you could take the hub and axel off together and press the axel out in a press. either way you will have to replace the hub bearing.

Posted on Mar 21, 2011

SOURCE: removing half axel pass side kia sedona 02

Hi Kieth, Yep you just pry them out with a flat large blade (don't use anything sharp and watch out where you put your legs. Remember you have arteries which need protecting. Cussing and swearing loudly helps the work too, especially if you hit a nail on your fingers or thumb. Regards John

Posted on Jul 01, 2012

SOURCE: 2005 KIA SEDONA OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL

Hi Phil, On the Spyder end of the shaft that fits into the gearbox there is a retaining clip. Did you knock it in securely? If you did then a seal may have become damaged when making the replacement. That will need replacement. Regards John

Posted on Oct 27, 2012

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1 Answer

How to remove axle from front of 1998 windstar


  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the front wheels.
  3. Insert a steel rod into the brake rotor to prevent the rotor from turning and loosen the axle wheel hub nut. Discard the nut.
  4. Remove the ball joint-to-front wheel knuckle retaining nut. Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer.
  5. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor and position it out of the way.
  6. Separate the ball joint from the front wheel knuckle using a prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
Use care to prevent damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint boot.
  1. Remove the stabilizer bar link at the front stabilizer bar.
Make sure the CV-joint puller does not contact the transaxle shaft speed sensor. Damage to the sensor will result.
  1. Install a CV-Joint Puller (T86P-3514-A1) or equivalent between the inboard CV-joint and the transaxle case.
  2. Install a CV-Joint Extension (T86P-3514-A2) or equivalent into the puller and hand-tighten.
  3. Using an impact slide hammer, remove the driveshaft from the transaxle.
Do not allow the front wheel driveshaft and joint to hang unsupported. Damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint may result. Do not wrap wire around the front wheel driveshaft joint boot. Damage to the boot may result.
  1. Support the end of the driveshaft and joint assembly by suspending it from the chassis using a length of wire.
Never use a hammer to separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub. Damage to the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint threads and internal components may result.
  1. Separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub using a Front Hub Remover/Replacer (T81P-1104-C) or equivalent. Make sure the hub remover adapter is fully threaded onto the hub stud.
Do not move the vehicle without the outboard CV-joint properly installed, as damage to the bearing may occur.
  1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint assembly from the vehicle.
To install:
Do not reuse the retainer circlip. A new circlip must be installed each time the inboard CV-joint stub shaft is installed into the transaxle differential.
  1. Install a new retainer circlip on the inboard CV-joint stub shaft by starting one end in the groove and working the retainer circlip over the inboard shaft housing end and into the groove. This will avoid overexpanding the circlip.
A non-metallic mallet may be used to aid in seating the retainer circlip into the differential side gear groove. If a mallet is necessary, tap only on the outboard CV-joint stub shaft.
  1. Carefully align the splines of the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing with the splines in the differential. Exerting some force, push the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing into the differential until the retainer circlip is felt to seat in the differential side gear. Use care to prevent damage to the inboard CV-joint stub shaft and transaxle seal.
  2. Carefully align the splines of the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint with the splines in the wheel hub, and push the shaft into the wheel hub as far as possible.
  3. Temporarily fasten the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub with washers and two lug nuts. Insert a steel rod into the front disc brake rotor and rotate clockwise to contact the front wheel knuckle, to prevent the front disc brake rotor from turning during front wheel driveshaft and joint installation.
A new front axle wheel hub retaining nut must be installed.
  1. Manually thread the front axle wheel hub retaining nut onto the outboard CV-joint stub shaft housing as far as possible.
A new bolt and nut must be used to connect the front suspension arm to the knuckle.
  1. Connect the front suspension lower arm to the front wheel knuckle. Tighten the nut and bolt to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-74 Nm).
  2. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor.
  3. Connect the front stabilizer bar link and tighten to 35-45 ft. lbs. (47-65 Nm).
Do not use power or impact tools to tighten the hub nut.
  1. Tighten the front axle wheel hub retaining nut to 157-212 ft. lbs. (213-287 Nm).
  2. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  3. Using the recommended type of fluid, fill the transaxle to the proper level.

Jul 07, 2014 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

2005 KIA SEDONA OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL


Hi Phil, On the Spyder end of the shaft that fits into the gearbox there is a retaining clip. Did you knock it in securely? If you did then a seal may have become damaged when making the replacement. That will need replacement. Regards John

Oct 27, 2012 | 2005 Kia Sedona

2 Answers

How do i replace wheel side cv joint boot


YOU CAN GET A BOOT REPAIR KIT OR A ZIP BOOT.DO NOT LIKE ZIP BOOT,DOESNT WORK . BEST TO GET A REMANUFACTURED AXLE AND REPLACE AS A UNIT,DOESNT COST MUCH MORE AND WIL WORK WITH A WARRANTY.TAKE OFF WHEEL,LOOSEN AXLE NUT,TAKE OFF LOWER BALL JOINT,POP AXLE WITH HAMMER TO DRIVE AVLE OUT OF BEARING A LITTLE WAYS THEN PUILL UP ON STRUT ASSEMBLY TO GET AXLE ALL THE WAY OUT OF BEARING/HUB ASSEMBLT. POP OUT AXLE ANT HE SLIDE IN THE NEW UNIT

Dec 30, 2010 | 1994 Hyundai Excel

1 Answer

I have honda city 1994 model, pls advice me on how to change front wheel axle/cv joint/boot thanks madaan


  • Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30 and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.
  • 2 Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out the jack and move it out of the way.
  • 3 Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub, take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.
  • 4 Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm. Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud from the spindle.
  • 5 Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.
  • 6 Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket. Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.
  • 7 Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.



  • Dec 25, 2010 | 1994 Honda Prelude

    1 Answer

    Remove CV Joint instructions.


    jack up the vehicle, somewhere under the frame place the jackstands. use jackstands or a cinderblock with a small pieces of wood!!!! never rely on the jack alone!!!!!!!
    remove tire(s). remove the center wheel nut. remove the bolts holding the brake caliper, remove it, and tie it up out of the way. with suspension still on, try to remove the rotor from the splines on the cv shaft. if not, remove suspension but mark certain points to go back in the same way. remove any cross-members that are in the way. where the cv joins to the tranny,place a pry bar in between and apply force. they should just pop out.

    Nov 30, 2010 | 2003 Kia Sedona

    1 Answer

    I've got a 1999 2500 Chevy Silverado , that I need to change a cv boot on , can u assist me.?


    CV-Joints
    Overhaul
    These vehicles use several different types of joints. Engine size, transaxle
    type, whether the joint is an inboard or outboard joint, even which side of the
    vehicle is being serviced could make a difference in joint type. Be sure to
    properly identify the joint before attempting joint or boot replacement. Look
    for identification numbers at the large end of the boots and/or on the end of
    the metal retainer bands.

    The 3 types of joints used are the Birfield Joint, (B.J.), the Tripod Joint
    (T.J.) and the Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.).

    NOTE: Do not disassemble a Birfield joint. Service with a new joint or
    clean and repack using a new boot kit.

    The distance between the large and small boot bands is important and should
    be checked prior to and after boot service. This is so the boot will not be
    installed either too loose or too tight, which could cause early wear and
    cracking, allowing the grease to get out and water and dirt in, leading to early
    joint failure.

    NOTE: The driveshaft joints use special grease; do not add any grease
    other than that supplied with the kit.

    Double Offset Joint
    To Remove:

    NOTE: The Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.) is bigger than other joints
    and, in these applications, is normally used as an inboard joint.


    1. Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
    2. Side cutter pliers can be used to cut the metal retaining bands. Remove the
      boot from the joint outer race.
    3. Locate and remove the large circlip at the base of the joint. Remove the
      outer race (the body of the joint).
    4. Remove the small snap ring and take off the inner race, cage and balls as an
      assembly. Clean the inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
    5. If the boot is to be reused, wipe the grease from the splines and wrap the
      splines in vinyl tape before sliding the boot from the shaft.
    6. Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is
      to be replaced, remove the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down and off
      of the shaft at this time.

    To Install:

    NOTE: Be sure to tape the shaft splines before installing the boots.
    Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied
    in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being
    used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot.


    1. Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small diameter side of the cage
      is installed first. With a brass drift pin, tap lightly and evenly around the
      inner race to install the race until it comes into contact with the rib of the
      shaft. Apply the specified grease to the inner race and cage and fit them
      together. Insert the balls into the cage.
    2. Install the outer race (the body of the joint) after filling with the
      specified grease. The outer race should be filled with this grease.
    3. Tighten the boot bands securely. Make sure the distance between the boot
      bands is correct.
    4. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.

    Except Double Offset Joint
    To Remove:


    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the halfshaft.
    2. Use side cutter pliers to remove the metal retaining bands from the boot(s)
      that will be removed. Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
    3. Remove the snap ring and the tripod joint spider assembly from the
      halfshaft. Do not disassemble the spider and use care in handling.
    4. If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around the spline part of the
      shaft so the boot(s) will not be damaged when removed. Remove the dynamic
      damper, if used, and the boots from the shaft.

    To Install:


    1. Double check that the correct replacement parts are being installed. Wrap
      vinyl tape around the splines to protect the boot and install the boots and
      damper, if used, in the correct order.
    2. Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft and install the snap ring.
    3. Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease
      supplied in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half
      being used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot. Keep
      grease off the rubber part of the dynamic damper (if used).
    4. Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a horizontal position. Make sure
      distance between boot bands is correct.
    5. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery
      cable.






    Check the CV-boot for wear
    tccs7030.jpg








    Removing the outer band from the CV-boot
    tccs7031.jpg








    Removing the inner band from the CV-boot
    tccs7032.jpg








    Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing
    tccs7033.jpg








    Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot
    tccs7034.jpg








    Removing the CV-joint housing assembly
    tccs7035.jpg








    Removing the CV-joint
    tccs7036.jpg








    Inspecting the CV-joint housing
    tccs7037.jpg








    Removing the CV-joint outer snap ring
    tccs7038.jpg








    Checking the CV-joint snap ring for wear
    tccs7039.jpg








    CV-joint snap ring (typical)
    tccs7040.jpg








    Removing the CV-joint assembly
    tccs7041.jpg








    Removing the CV-joint inner snap ring
    tccs7042.jpg








    Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical)
    tccs7043.jpg




    prev.gif next.gif

    Oct 07, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

    1 Answer

    Replacing the passenger side cv joint on a 1995 toyota tacoma. what is the procedure for removing the splined shaft from the hub?


    Remove the caliper, rotor, and the splined shaft should either press out of the bearing or unbolt form the inside of the control arm itself.

    Oct 06, 2010 | 1995 Toyota Tacoma

    1 Answer

    Do I have to remove the control arm to replace the half shaft on a 2005 Ford Freestar?


    no, here's the procedure for 2002 windstar, should be similar. please rate, thanks.

    NOTE: This procedure applies to both the LH and RH halfshaft assemblies.
    1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
    1. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
    1. Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while removing the front axle wheel end nut.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: The front axle wheel end nut is a torque prevailing design nut. Do not reuse it.
      Remove the nut and washer.
      • Remove the steel rod in the brake disc.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: Remove or tape the brake pads to prevent them from falling out of the anchor plate.
      s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To prevent damage to the brake hose, do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the hose.
      Remove the bolts and position the disc brake caliper aside.
    1. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor harness from the clip.
    1. Remove and discard the nut and bolt.
      • If necessary, use a punch and a hammer to drive the bolt out of the knuckle.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Position the end of the pry bar outside the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
      s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
      Separate the front suspension lower arm from the knuckle.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Never use a hammer to separate the front wheel driveshaft joint (3B413) from the wheel hub. Damage to the joint threads and internal components can result.
      Using the special tool, press on the front wheel driveshaft joint until it is loose in the wheel hub.
    1. Rotate the front wheel knuckle rearward, while pulling it outward at the bottom and remove the front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub.
    1. Using a pry bar, separate the inboard CV joint housing assembly (3B436) (3B437) from the transaxle.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the differential seal.
      Remove the halfshaft assembly with both hands.
    Installation
    1. Lubricate the differential seal.
      • Use MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-5-QM or equivalent meeting MERCON® V specifications.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Install a new circlip every time you remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
      On the RH side halfshaft only, install a new circlip in the groove in the inboard CV joint stub shaft.
      • Start one end in the groove and work the circlip over the shaft and into the groove. This will prevent the circlip from over-expanding.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the inboard CV joint housing assembly and the differential seal.
      NOTE: If necessary, use a non-metallic mallet to aid in seating the circlip in the differential side gear groove (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH). Tap only on the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint.
      Align the inboard CV joint housing splines with the differential side gear splines (RH) or output shaft splines (LH), and push the inboard CV joint housing assembly inward until the circlip seats in the differential side gear (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH).
    1. Align the front wheel driveshaft joint splines and the wheel hub splines, and push the joint into the wheel hub as far as possible.
    1. Install the washer and the old nut. Using the old nut, seat the front wheel driveshaft joint in the hub. Remove the old nut and discard it.
    1. Connect the suspension lower arm to the knuckle.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Install a new bolt and nut.
      Install the new bolt and nut.
    1. Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while installing the new front axle wheel end nut.
    1. Apply a small patch of Loctite 242 or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G351-A5 to the last five front wheel driveshaft joint threads.
    1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Install and tighten the new front axle wheel end nut to specification in a continuous rotation. Stopping the rotation during installation will cause the nylon lock to set incorrectly. This will cause incorrect torque readings while tightening the nut, and lead to bearing failure. Always install a new front axle wheel end nut after loosening the nut, or when the nut has not been installed to specification in a continuous rotation.
      Install and tighten the new nut to specification in a continuous rotation.
      • Remove the steel rod from the brake disc.
    1. Position the disc brake caliper and install the bolts.
    1. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor harness in the clip.
    1. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
    1. Lower the vehicle.
    1. Check and, if necessary, fill the transaxle to the correct level with the specified fluid. For additional information, refer to Section 307-01 .

    Nov 15, 2009 | 2005 Ford Freestar

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