Question about 2008 Mazda 3 2.0

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No power to car

Hi, I have a 2008 Mazda 3 2.0L manual. I recently had to replace my battery and went to Autozone and requested the battery based on the year, model and make. I had no trouble removing the old battery and dropping in the new one. Initially I did have some trouble screwing in the positive and negative terminals onto the new battery as it seemed like they would slip off even after I couldn't tighten the bolts anymore. To rectify this on the positive terminal, I loosened the bolt completely and then tried again and somehow it was securely fitted. On the negative terminal I had a bit more trouble. It seemed that as I tighten the terminal clamp the terminal "ring" that is around the battery head for slide up. What I did to fix the problem is I flipped the terminal "ring" so that as I tightened the bolt, the terminal for push downward. I'm not sure if what i'm explaining makes sense, but I was able to secure the negative terminal cable to the negative head on the battery. I started up my car and the battery seemed to work out well. The dash lights all went on much more quickly than they did with my old battery and my radio went on and the cd changer in my car started making noises as if it was loading up a cd within the cd changer. I turned the car off. Closed the hood and attempted to restart the car again and no power at all. There is no clicking or sound in the engine trying to start up. There is no headlight, radio, dash, and my remote key does not lock or unlock the car. Essentially there is zero power going into my car. I read the following thread: In this thread the technician mentioned checking the cables and the main fuse. As far as cable connections, what could be wrong there? The cables are contacting the battery heads and they are not loose. They are not crossed either. Given that the car started up once, I am wondering if the problem is a blown main fuse. In looking at the manual, the main fuse appears to be attached to the positive cable terminal and not contained with the fuse panel box. Does this sound correct? When I look at what is identified as the main fuse it looks like a black rectangle bulge that is contained within the cable itself. It does not look like a standard fuse that would be contained within the fuse box. In the users manual it also says not to replace the main fuse on your own. If it is cutting into wires then I would agree that I should not be doing it, but if it is just an actual fuse and can buy and replace within the fuse panel then that doesn't seem too hard to do. In regards to checking the connections again, what should I look for to determine is something is done incorrectly if the cables are not crossed and are securely fastened and touching the battery heads? Any help would be greatly appreciated before I shell out to have my car towed to a dealer to charge me an arm and a leg to do something potentially simple. regards, Andrew

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Sadly the fuse is integral to the positive wire. If blown it will require complete replacement of the wire with fuse in it to maintain the factory safety it provides. It is possible that when you closed the hood of the car the cables on the battery shorted out on the hood when the engine moved after starting it. The terminals should have protective covers on them? Inspect the hood area above the battery for spark damage and / or contact with the terminals of the battery.

Posted on Nov 25, 2013

Testimonial: "Thanks for your help. I will check for spark damage on the hood. There were not rubber covers on my battery terminals... Is this uncommon? Maybe past maintenance technicians took them off and forgot to put them back on? What does spark damage look like?"


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SOURCE: Possible electrical problem? Please help

the thing you not going to like what i say is remove the alarm system.
this is most likely causing your issues as the alarm interacts with some of the electrical's you described.
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You have lost your main breaker--there is a fuse bank beside the battery and the main(black one) is held in place with 10mm bolts--pull back the cover and all will be evident. This fuse is the first thing to go when you reverse polarity--headlights are straight thru battery and will be all that's powered. Replace the main breaker!

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SOURCE: 2002 Mazda Truck Ignition Problem. Security related?

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The problem is an electrical failure in your circuitry. From Fuse to lights, to the door switches is a complete circuit. It is possible the lock switch is stuck or faulty making the motor keep running. There may be a relay that is sticking open for that door motor. Between the switch and motor if you do have the relay. I would try disconnecting the lock switch on that door first, then if it still occurs try disconnecting lock or window the one on the drivers side. If the problem still occurs, then your looking at a problem in the electrical such as shorted wire somewhere.

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