1976 Datsun 280z not starting but turning over fine
280z not starting. Turning over fine. Fuel pressure at rail is 38 psi. Spark plugs are firing. Timing is dead on. I hooked up an outside fuel tank and bypassed mine after clearing the lines. Its not a bad gas problem. Took off regulator and tested it - works fine. Cylinder 1 and 2 plugs get black soot (richness problem) after every time turning over. Car started when I took spark plug wire 2 off, and kept taking cylinder 1 wire on and off while turning over engine. Strange. Also, cylinder 2 is filling with gas. Lastly, while turning over the car, 6 liters of fuel passed through the system. This was after I filled the recently flushed lines. Any ideas?
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Check and make sure you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail, Then make sure you have spark at the plugs. If you have both spark at the plugs and fuel pressure at the fuel rail I would look at the pick-up in the distributor.
When you say it fires, are you checking for spark at the plugs ? In most cases you have to figure out if it is spark, fuel, or compression to proceed. A mechanic would also check the computer for trouble codes but you would need a scanner or code reader to do that.
Gets fire? So you checked for spark, and you had a good blue spark at the spark plug? And does the engine spin over at the normal rate of speed when you are trying to start it? If there's a theft deterrent device on your van, some systems immobilize the fuel injector circuit, preventing the car from starting. Any possibility an alarm has been tripped? The fuel pressure at the injectors needs to be "really high" for the injectors to work properly and for gas to enter the cylinders. Around 40 psi, check a manual for manufacturer's specs. The only way to know your fuel pressure for certain is to hook up a fuel pressure gauge tester to the test port on the fuel rail. Just turning the key on will prime the system and give you a high reading on the gauge, if the fuel pump and filter are good. Cheers.
That's a good starting point. Make sure the injector electrically working (getting signal to fire) If so take a fuel pressure test to see if the fuel psi is within spec. If not (high psi) the injector is probably your cause. (usually not firing, electrical)
Have you checked the fuel pressure? Fuel pumps are a common failure item on those trucks. Pick up a cheap fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the shrader valve on the fuel rail. With the ignition on and you should have 55-65psi. Even if it's a few psi below spec it could stop the engine from firing.Once you determine the fuel pressure isn't adequate make sure you have a
good power and ground at the fuel pump. If that checks out, time for a new fuel pump module. I recommend only replacing it with an AC delco unit, I've heard bad stories about aftermarket replacements. You could also spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid in the throttle body and crank the engine over. If it runs for a few seconds after spraying starting fluid in you know you have a fuel delivery problem.
you need to determine if you have spark at plugs while turning the engine over,or if you don't have enough fuel pressure to fire it up,you will need at least 55psi of fuel pressure at the fuel rail to start
Try the fuel injection relay they are located under the hood. They blow out every few years on my Volvo. The car starts to quit all of the sudden. It is either red or green colored. It is located in the fuse box under the hood.
Need to get a scan tool and look at the data stream while it is running for alot more info.Also any trouble codes.Sounds like initially,the engine isn't getting any fuel.I would have a pressure gauge connected to the fuel rail on the engine,so i could monitor the fuel pressure while all this is going on.Items to look at on the data stream would be timing,what timing is the PCM commanding for the engine.Also,have you checked for continuos power feed to the coils during this no start condition,and fire at the plugs while cranking.You could possibly still have spark,but maybe it is extremely weak?I have seen bad ignition switches cause weird problems before too.Many things power up through the ignition switch,just a thought.Have also seen bad PCM's cause strange problems..38 volts is a little on the low side for GM.Usually see those at,at least .50 and up,and rise steadily while pressing the throttle,up to just under 5.0 volts.Potentiometer with 5 volt supply.Vacuum leak can be checked with engine running at a steady idle speed,spray brake cleaner all around the intake manifold and listen for engine speed change.