a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
old post , no year car, 1989 to 2002
there are 3 engines, 2 up to 1998. all made by toyota overheating is it,
forget all else. FIND reason for overheating, coolant lost top list.
if loosing coolant that is #1 above all else. find cause.
overheating KILLS all ENgines. if not cured fast.
is it pinging? that too kills engines.
your engine should never overheat unless it has cooling problems or.
unless the head is warped now, it will overheat, due to coolant loss
is it loosing coolant every hour or day?
CRANKING ALL ENGINES THAT DONT START DRAINS ALL BATTERIES, IT'S NOT a SYMPTOM IT'S NORMAL FOR NOSTARTS. (starter sucks 100 amps from battery every try)
id do a compression test first.
look for coolant in these spots
1: pavement below car.
2: passenger foot wells. (heat core leaks)
3: low radiator at neck cold show no coolant seen there.
4: in the a/t transmission, turns AFT to chocolate milk.
5: water in the engine oil pan, and or the reverse.
oil in the radiator, or side tank.
do all you can to not overheat any engine, and keep the repair bill like 1/3 or less. of BOOM
If you have the 2.7L engine, you may have a bad water pump. The water pump is turned by the timing chain. When the water pump on those particular engines go out, tension on the chain goes away and retards the camshafts bad enough for it not wanting to start. Pull your oil dipstick out and see if you see signs of water in the oil. If there is, this is your problem. When the water pump goes out on those engines, it'll drain water straight into the front of the oil pan.
The overheating might be caused by a thermostat stuck closed, have it replaced. That should fix the overheating, as for the hesitating, run a scan on the ECM module to make sure you dont have any codes, clear if any and fix anything that might've gotten damaged from the overheating.
I might need a little more information to accurately diagnose situation but I always like to start with the thermostat.(touch top radiator hose if it is cool with temp reading high its probably thermostat) This device is supposed to open up when the engine reaches operating temp. to allow coolant to flow. If it is stuck it could easily cause the overheating condition you are experiencing. Some more info such as does it only overheat when sitting still or will it overheat when moving down the road. If only when sitting still I would suggest a problem with the cooling fan. If it is a gradual increase while driving based off the age of the vehicle I might suspect a clogged radiator. If this dont help try telling me more about it and I will be happy to provide more insight.
YOU NEED BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM.CHECK COOLANT LEVEL IN RADIATOR.ADD MORE DEXCOOL UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL IS CLOSE TO RADIATOR SPOUT.CRANK ENGINE LET IDLE UNTIL TOP RADIATOR HOSE GET HOT.WATCH TEMPERATURE GAUGE.IF TEMPERATURE GAUGE START RISING TO HOT ZONE.TURN OFF ENGINE.LET COOL DOWN.USE LARGE RAG SLOWLY OPEN RADIATOR CAP A LITTLE AT A TIME UNTIL ALL PRESSURE RELIEVED.REMOVE RADIATOR CAP.ADD MORE COOLANT.CRANK CAR AGAIN LET IDLE UNTIL TOP RADIATOR GET HOT.KEEP EYE ON TEMP.GAUGE ALSO.WHEN TEMP.GAUGE STOP CLIMBING.YOUR COOLANT SYSTEM BLED.WHEN DONE LET CAR SET A WHILE CHECK COOLANT LEVEL.ALSO FIRST THING IN THE MORNING CHECK COOLANT LEVEL AGAIN.AND BESURE ADD COOLANT IN THE OVERFLOW JUG TO THE COLD MARK.DONT OVER FILL THE COOLANT RESERVOIR JUG.WORK SAFELY DONT GET SCALDED.
From what you have described, which is a rapid over heating of the radiator coolant fluid and therefore a hot engine condition, it would appear that the thermostat in the engine's cooling system is faulty.
If the thermostat is sticking in the closed or nearly closed position temporarily, there will be no flow or very little coolant flow between the engine and the radiator and the engine will overheat.
You have advised that after the engine is shut off , and radiator coolant fluid has cooled, you re-start the engine and drive the car without the overheating condition occurring again and the radiator coolant temperature is normal. This time there is no overheating because the thermostat is working normally.
You should have the thermostat replaced as soon as possible because allowing the engine to overheat can cause very expensive engine damage.
If you had a continuing overheating condition then I would suspect both the thermostat and the water pump. However as the overheating seems to be only temporary, and clears itself after you have shut down the engine and re-started it 10 minutes later (without further overheating arising) then I think you only have a faulty thermostat.
Please also check that the electric fans which draw air through the radiator are operating. These run on a temperature sensor and will switch on automatically once the radiator coolant fluid reaches a certain temperature and then switch off again when the fluid temperature reduces. You will hear them running once they start up. If these fans are not working the radiator coolant can quickly overheat in various driving and temperature conditions because there will be insufficient air flow through the radiator to cool the fluid. If the temperature sensor is faulty or has died, or if the electric motors running the fans are faulty, the fans will not operate.
Does it heat up and overheat very quickly after you start driving , if so , probably thermostat.
If you are driving down the road and the temp is good , then you stop in traffic and car heats up , then probably cooling fan not working.
If it heats up slowly , then just keeps getting hotter till it overheats , then radiator problem.
Is is realy overheating , or is the guage just giving a false reading ?
The three most likely thing's cause overheating are faulty thermostat,electric fan or clogged radiator. Only at has been overheat so much it boils dry that it will cause engine trouble. Most common problem's are blown cylinder head gasket or a cracked cylinder head.
mixing coolant and water depends on where the gasket has blown or head is cracked. You will first need to check if it actually is overheating. The reason is. If the head is cracked or gasket blown then you can get a false boiling which is compresion from the cylinders blows through the crack in the head or gasket causing the coolant to blow out of the radiator cap.Fill the radiator to the top leave the cap off then start the engine.If the water blows out then you will need to remove the cylinder head check the gasket is ok. If its damaged replace if not get the head checked for crack's. If no water blow's when you start it check the thermostat is working properly. To check the thermostat put it a in a saucepan cover it with water bring the water to the boil. It should open before the water boil's but near boiling-point. If its ok then start the engine again leave it running until it boils and check the fan is running. If that's ok then its radiator problem. Their is no way to check if the radiator is ok you will need to get a new one. One last point. If the cylinder head or gasket are faulty it was caused by overheating so by just fixing the cylinder head problem is not a cure it will overheat again. Check the three things I mentioned at the begining and told you how to check them. Hope this help's. Cheer's
You'll have to remove the radiator (it isn't that hard) and take it to a Yellow Page listed radiator repair shop...Be prepared to spend $200, less if you're lucky...Don't forget to put water pump lube (NAPA #13 - looks like milk) in the radiator after replacing the fluid 50/50 mix