Question about Cars & Trucks
A bit hard not knowing the make or model but with L300 and alike with auto hubs they rely on the tailshaft spinning faster to engage the hubs similar to the operation of a limited slip diff, it only engages when needed. If you want to test it make sure you place all 4 wheels on stands or you will get hurt
Posted on Nov 25, 2013
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Just have your auto - locking hub cleaned and use your 4wd more often, it get stock usually for non usage. dont use grease after cleaning, use oil or thick silicone oil.
Posted on Dec 05, 2008
I had the same thing happen. The automatic locking hubs are faulty, causing one or both hubs to try to engage or disengage onto the front driveshaft. This makes the clicking noise and loud clunking that you hear. You may notice your steering pulling to one side of the road,because one hub is locked in. Replace the automatic hubs with new ones, do not try to fix the old ones. I liked the
convience of automatic hubs but replaced mine with manual hubs, there just way more reliable.
Posted on Jun 06, 2009
Is the front driveshaft turning but the wheels are not? or is the noise coming from the transfer case and the front driveshaft is stationary. If the driveshaft is not turning the problem is inside the transfer case. If the driveshaft turns, remove the front differential cover and make sure the gears are not damaged. Before doing that though, If the boots on the axles are torn, chances are that the c/v joints (one or both) have failed. The front diff is an "open type" which means that the wheel with the least amount of traction will receive all the power. If a joint fails there is no "traction": at that wheel so the opposite one will not turn as well. You will see the axle turning but the wheel will remain stationary. If joint has failed, most times it's faster and easier (and not much more $ to buy a complete rebuilt axle). Chilton or haynes manual outlines r&r...not terribly difficult job but if you have any questions about any of it just ask!
Posted on May 29, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 14, 2013 | 2000 Kia Sportage
Feb 28, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
Jan 29, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
Nov 24, 2010 | Ford Ranger Cars & Trucks
Jun 24, 2010 | 1994 Isuzu Rodeo
Apr 04, 2010 | 2002 GMC Sierra C/K1500
Dec 21, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Tracker
Jun 04, 2009 | 1994 Ford F350 Crew Cab
Dec 20, 2008 | 2000 GMC Yukon
23 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!