Question about 1998 Toyota RAV4

1 Answer

Turn key and pump gas pedal various times rough idle final stabelize now it cranks but wont start just misfire

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  • Longino Idrogo
    Longino Idrogo Nov 25, 2013

    I really appreciate all the instantaneous help with the possible solutions. as soon as I get it running i'll let you all know.

    Idrogo

  • Longino Idrogo
    Longino Idrogo Nov 27, 2013

    I found out the problem. it was the timing belt. i had to go to a mechanic, i think fixing a timing belt is over my head. one person did mention that in their solutions to me . Question : i called autozone for pricing on a timing belt. a young lady told me aroung $24.95. i asked if there was any thing else i needed? she said a water pump. i was puzzled i never heard of a water pump in the timing belt region. she said they sold a kit, which included the timing belt. Is required to put in a water pump? or recommended? Reason: the mechanic told me it was the timing belt. he took it to his garage to fix it. that was on Tuesday afternoon. i called him early today to ask if he replaced the water pump as required ? he said no i only repalced the timing belt. i told him i called autozone and the kit included a water pump. he said but i just closed everything and fixing to see if it runs well. i said you are the expert that's why i hired you. i am not suppose to be telling you what is required. as the proffessional you are if you are not sure you are suppose to ask at the auto parts. i asked i he was guaranteeing his work? he said yes. so if it breaks down again you are going to have to open it up again and fix the water pump. because i am not going to pay you $400.00 bucks to do it again. he finally conceded he made the error and would put in the water pump at cost of water pump only and no extra cost for labor. Question : was i right ? or was he as a professional suppose to find out what was included in fixing a timing belt? If i had accepted his work as is, could their be possibilities a water pump would go bad , at a later point in time and i would have to do this all over again? was he required as a professional to find out what else should be replaced without me having to tell him? once again thank you all for the valued information? sorry for the long rant. and happy thanksgiving to all Idrogo

  • myamiga Nov 27, 2013

    Water pump on most vehicles is also run by the timing belt and if the belt breaks then the engine will not run. It takes quite a bit of time to open the engine up to change the timing belt and the pump is right there so it is cheap insurance to change it as well. You were right to check that! Also if the the serpentine belt is old (and usually must be removed to get to the timing belt) then that as well as the idler and tensioner pulleys need to be replaced as they will fail. With winter here a fail there may be an easy 2-3 hour fix it is not something you would want to do out in the cold on a road somewhere or have to tow to a garage....

  • Longino Idrogo
    Longino Idrogo Nov 28, 2013



    The Never ending Story:




    1. The Mechanic has now called me this morning to tell me the car starts but one cylinder is dead. He took compression and its zero. It has no compression at all. The Head valves are burned on that one cylinder.




    2. I asked him if that was the only additional problem ? he said" yes, besides the timing belt. "




    3.. "It is running but its burning a lot of gas."




    4. Will car run once you got it out on the road? He said: " It will run steady but it won't stay running." When I asked him this question I was thinking of just driving it back to my home, about a mile or less away , hoping not to cause the motor further damage.




    5. He said this things don't happen overnight. However my thoughts are can a car , once it's running, run smoothly , like it did for the first two days after I tried starting it various times by pumping gas pedal? It did run ruff and kind of shake when I did get it started. But after it warmed up it ran fine and smooth. And whenever I stopped engine and restart it would start right up. However after 45 minutes or so engine red light would come on. Once that happned I could stop it and turn it back on maybe once or twice, but on third try it would start not start(no back firing ). I would keep on trying and finely start.




    6. The following morning it would not start even if I pumped the gas numerious times. Then it began backfiring. Question: could I have burned the Head Valve on that one cylinder by trying to start car and backfiring? I say this because the day before when it ran it ran fine. When I pumped gas pedal to start it's was not yet back firing.




    But then I remember him saying ,"this things don't happen overnight".




    7.. He then called me back today and quoted me $1290.00 for fixing burnt valve. However he is talking about that one valve only.




    8. I called auto zone for prices on replacing the parts. They quoted : Exhaust valve $11.99, if it's a intake valve, $10.99. valve stem seals $38.99; gasket set $15.99; engine oil cooler or like the autoparts dealer called it engine cooler?? He the auto parts dealer said it could run from $46.00 through $208.00.




    Head bolt set $19.99. I don't know yet what machine shop will charge.




    He said only one valve head was bad, but when he was telling me what I needed from autoparts, he said two valves?? He told me cost would be $1290.00 for labor and parts.




    9. I told him just finish putting water pump in, give me receits and labor cost sign and date the documents.




    10. I am keeping the car parked until I raise the monies and get some second opinions. I just can't afford what he is asking. Besides I don't trust him anymore. I am now sure he knew about the kit, but he is more interested in maximizing his profit. He went for buying a timing belt only at $24.99 , probably assured I wouldn't know the difference. But I am a researcher. I will find.




    11. I now know what the price is for the parts I need; for most of them anyway.




    I will have cylinders checked again to see if there really is no pressure.




    I will get second opinions on the cost for labor.




    But most important I will check from other people to see if mechanics I check out a is good mechanic,




    And check cost for a machine shop cost for resurfacing the valves head if they are going to be done.




    12. I am not very experienced in the auto mechanic field, but I am taking notes and hopefully at a later date I can do the job myself. Maybe even help others.




    God bless, Idrogo




    When all this is over I'll let you know what happned.




    P.S. "Mi amiga", thanks for the information concerning the relation of water pump to the timing belt. I put that in my notes. Thanks . I will be looking to read more on it and the "serpentine belt" to examine it's condition.




    Note; I always make sure the copy of his bill concerning how much was his labor cost and his cost on the item parts is signed and dated. And if I can get him to state on the document that I have bad valve, and cost it will be even better. Reason: it's a contract. There are rules of law concerning contracts. So if he breached the contract. Maybe I find out later that the water pump was not installed or other issues, I can used the contract to show breach.







    The Never ending Story:

    1. The Mechanic has now called me this morning to tell me the car starts but one cylinder is dead. He took compression and its zero. It has no compression at all. The Head valves are burned on that one cylinder.

    2. I asked him if that was the only additional problem ? he said" yes, besides the timing belt. "

    3.. "It is running but its burning a lot of gas."

    4. Will car run once you got it out on the road? He said: " It will run steady but it won't stay running." When I asked him this question I was thinking of just driving it back to my home, about a mile or less away , hoping not to cause the motor further damage.

    5. He said this things don't happen overnight. However my thoughts are can a car , once it's running, run smoothly , like it did for the first two days after I tried starting it various times by pumping gas pedal? It did run ruff and kind of shake when I did get it started. But after it warmed up it ran fine and smooth. And whenever I stopped engine and restart it would start right up. However after 45 minutes or so engine red light would come on. Once that happned I could stop it and turn it back on maybe once or twice, but on third try it would start not start(no back firing ). I would keep on trying and finely start.

    6. The following morning it would not start even if I pumped the gas numerious times. Then it began backfiring. Question: could I have burned the Head Valve on that one cylinder by trying to start car and backfiring? I say this because the day before when it ran it ran fine. When I pumped gas pedal to start it's was not yet back firing.

    But then I remember him saying ,"this things don't happen overnight".

    7.. He then called me back today and quoted me $1290.00 for fixing burnt valve. However he is talking about that one valve only.

    8. I called auto zone for prices on replacing the parts. They quoted : Exhaust valve $11.99, if it's a intake valve, $10.99. valve stem seals $38.99; gasket set $15.99; engine oil cooler or like the autoparts dealer called it engine cooler?? He the auto parts dealer said it could run from $46.00 through $208.00.

    Head bolt set $19.99. I don't know yet what machine shop will charge.

    He said only one valve head was bad, but when he was telling me what I needed from autoparts, he said two valves?? He told me cost would be $1290.00 for labor and parts.

    9. I told him just finish putting water pump in, give me receits and labor cost sign and date the documents.

    10. I am keeping the car parked until I raise the monies and get some second opinions. I just can't afford what he is asking. Besides I don't trust him anymore. I am now sure he knew about the kit, but he is more interested in maximizing his profit. He went for buying a timing belt only at $24.99 , probably assured I wouldn't know the difference. But I am a researcher. I will find.

    11. I now know what the price is for the parts I need; for most of them anyway.

    I will have cylinders checked again to see if there really is no pressure.

    I will get second opinions on the cost for labor.

    But most important I will check from other people to see if mechanics I check out a is good mechanic,

    And check cost for a machine shop cost for resurfacing the valves head if they are going to be done.

    12. I am not very experienced in the auto mechanic field, but I am taking notes and hopefully at a later date I can do the job myself. Maybe even help others.

    God bless, Idrogo

    When all this is over I'll let you know what happned.

    P.S. "Mi amiga", thanks for the information concerning the relation of water pump to the timing belt. I put that in my notes. Thanks . I will be looking to read more on it and the "serpentine belt" to examine it's condition.

    Note; I always make sure the copy of his bill concerning how much was his labor cost and his cost on the item parts is signed and dated. And if I can get him to state on the document that I have bad valve, and cost it will be even better. Reason: it's a contract. There are rules of law concerning contracts. So if he breached the contract. Maybe I find out later that the water pump was not installed or other issues, I can used the contract to show breach.


  • myamiga Mar 18, 2014

    Any update? Your question about the 'ruff' running, seems to me one damaged valve from the timing belt breaking or moving out of position, is surprising to be just the one cylinder. Usually 2 or 3 will be bent. He did a compression check of all cylinders? If so and only one is "burnt"??? I would suspect a stuck/dirty valve or a bent valve, but burnt? Maybe that was his word for stuck. Odd. Red light: Which one? These are the most important lights! Oil pressure light is certain damage. Temperature light is impending damage and that is likely the issue. If, say, the fuel injector for the damaged cylinder was clogged the cylinder would be lean running, get very hot and metal parts begin to melt. The coolant would get too hot and the light would come on. Turning off the engine right away is the right thing to do to prevent more damage. For the price quoted, chech around for a rebuilt engine swap. It may be a better choice for cost and warranty.

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  • Contributor
  • 33 Answers

Check fuel pressure.
Check for clogged fuel injectors.
Check quality of fuel.
Check battery charge is good.

Posted on Nov 25, 2013

  • Longino Idrogo
    Longino Idrogo Nov 27, 2013

    i want to thank all the people for helping me find a solution. i copied all solutions for future reference. I espicially thank Mr. Edgar Walker for suggesting i check the timing . Idrogo

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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michigan man
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SOURCE: engine idles rough, misses at 2500-3000 rpm's

i would first check the timing and if that does not fit i would take the cover back off and look at the belt for a bad or missing tooth

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

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SOURCE: Tacoma 4cyl idles rough, heditates, multiple misfires

Possible fuel delivery problem, fuel pump, fuel line, clogged fuel filter, leaking injectors or injector O-rings, faulty pressure regulator etc. Check your fuel pressure.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

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SOURCE: 2001 Toyota highlander(4cyl),turns over,won't

Your cold start valve is not opening to assist the firing. It function is to provide extra fuel to ignite the all combustion chambers easily. When the engine doesn't have this extra fuel from the cold start valve, it will take a few times to get it going. The cold start valve is turned on at the time of starting only if the ECM get the signal from coolant temperature sensor saying it is at a preset level. When the sensor is bad, it can give a wrong value so ECM think that temperature is hot so not turning the Cold start valve. Replace this coolant sensor first, then the next thing is to check out the cold start valve.

Posted on Oct 29, 2009

kirkx
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SOURCE: Very hard to start and idles rough

Cold start injector could be bad, or you could have a small vacuum leak, like a cracked hose. A vacuum leak is most noticeable at idle, when engine cold.

Posted on Jan 03, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks alot! Will look into those"

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SOURCE: i have a 1995 toyota

check for fuel pump relay not working

Posted on Mar 09, 2011

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