Question about Chrysler Fifth Avenue

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No heat but blows cold air

I have a 89 Chrysler Fifth Avenue heater blows cold air I changed the thermostat but still blows cold air/.

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  • 47 Answers

The control panel is not working you can switch it manual behind the dashboard and beside the gas pedal almost

Posted on Nov 25, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 651 Answers

SOURCE: heater blowing cold air

squeeze the hoses to get any air bubbles out and refill coolant as necesary. are you sure you put thermostat in the right way? may be backwards. also may be your sensor.

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • 152 Answers

SOURCE: Blowing Cold Air

It sounds like you need to do a process of elimination, by following the travel of the hot coolant.

1. Before beginning, safety must come first, so put on a pair of safety glasses/goggles and a pair of gloves.

2.Open the hood and check the coolant level, and add if needed. If you needed to add then recheck for heat after step # 3

3. Close the hood and start and run the engine to normal operating temp.

4."TURN THE ENGINE OFF"

5.Reopen the hood and lightly grasp the top radiator hose feeling for heat caused by hot coolant in the hose. Also feel the bottom radiator hose for heat, (you may have to access the bottom hose from under the car) (while down there look for coolant leak...dripping) If heat is somewhat equal between the two hoses move on. If not there are three areas to check
A) Your thermostat may not be opening
B) Your radiator might be obstructed/clogged
C) Your water pump may not be functioning

6. Locate the two smaller hoses that lead to and from your heater core (a small radiator type device located inside cab under the dash that connects through the firewall) (one is connected at the water pump to the heater core the other is connected at the engine to the heater core) one hose may have a regulator (a small mechanical device operated by either cable,electric,or vacuum that controls the flow of coolant into the heater core) attached inline

7. With the hood raised, restart the engine and adjust the heater control to max heat. Locate a safe area under the hood (free of all moving parts) to access and grasp each of the smaller heater hoses, check for heat, caused by hot coolant in the hose, also check the hose before and after the regulator described in step # 6.
If either of these locations are cold to the touch we can safely say we have narrowed the problem down to one or all of three things.

A) If all heater hoses are cold or only the inlet side of the regulator is hot and the other side is cold or warm, its possible that the regulator is faulty requiring a replacement or is not functioning due to inadequate cable,electric,and/or vacuum to operate it caused by a broken cable, electrical short or disconnected/ broken vacuum line, it also could be a defective (in dash) heater control unit or just a fuse if its electrically operated.

B) If the inlet hose to the heater core is hot and the other outlet hose is cold or warm then its possible that the heater core is obstructed/clogged, requiring a flush out or replacement.

C) If all heater hoses are hot (you may also feel a flow vibration in the hoses) then you should have heat, unless the under dash duct work is disconnected or blower fan is not operating.

I hope this helps.....

Posted on Feb 20, 2009

  • 108 Answers

SOURCE: blowing cold air via the heater

Assuming that none of the Electrical/Electronic controls were disturbed when changing the Thermostat it seems to me that you have an "Air Lock" within the heater. One must purge all the air out of the cooling system as close to the highest point as possible after the system has been partially or fully drained. Most of the time one will find small BRASS Bleeder Valves located somewhere near the highest point. Open each one while the system is pressurized and let Air escape until some Coolant escapes. Sometimes it may be necessary to loosen a Heater Hose and bleed the air at that point. Remember that the system MUST BE PRESSURIZED to accomplish the Bleeding of Air. Many auto parts stores sell hand pumps with a pressure gauge for this purpose and leak testing. These pumps typically replace the Radiator Pressure Cap temporarily. The system does not have to be at normal operating temperature to bleed the air out. Once the Air has been bled you will have to refill the radiator to normal full and make sure that the Coolant Recovery Tank level is also brought up to recommended level. A quick check is to remove the Radiator Pressure Cap, Start the Engine, Rev the engine suddenly (A short Jab) and see if the coolant level falls rapidly in the radiator. If it does it is definitely an AIR LOCK situation.

Fastest Robe

Posted on Nov 19, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank you, I'll do the quick jab test to determine the air lock and proceed with bleeding"

wracefans24
  • 1985 Answers

SOURCE: My heater doesn't work. Hot water is circulating,

if both heater hoses going into the fire wall are hot,remove the heater control assembly from dash and make sure cable is connected and do the same under the hood where one heater hose has a valve connected to it,

Posted on Dec 15, 2009

  • 1857 Answers

SOURCE: Heater blowing cold air changed thermostat still

you have a blend door actuator that may be bad. Its a little motor that can be a bear to swap out. Unless your pretty mechanically inclined and have the right tools you may want a shop to diagnose this to be sure.

Posted on Dec 29, 2009

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