Question about 2004 Toyota Sienna

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Vehicle sllppery light on and alarm sound.

When running on freeway above 65 mph and raining night and rain was stopped slippery light and alarm came on when reduec to 60 mph it was cleared.

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  • Toyota Master
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I am thinking that the car was telling you that traction was at a minimum at the speed you were travelling at in those conditions and advised you to slow down and when you slowed down you were back in the safety zone.

Posted on Nov 24, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1206 Answers

SOURCE: a/t control-harsh shifting/dtc p2716/mil on

under the hood in the engine compartment is a box with a red top push down on it until you hear a click,this will rest the petrol cut off switch.

Posted on Jan 27, 2010

SOURCE: overheating, after 4 or5 miles engine gage is in

Please solve this problem, my car COROLLA 1988 automatic 1.6 has the same problem!!!!!

Posted on Nov 20, 2010

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SOURCE: check engine light, vsc light, and traction light

Hello you can guess this might be one of several switch malfunctions but a guess would be a waist of money and unnecessary repairs.The best solution you will need to go in to a garage and have a scan performed this will pin point the problem and you can repair the fault exactly with a guess.Most garages charge 425.00 to $75.00 dollars for these scans.

Posted on Jan 08, 2011

hfmiles
  • 1165 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 92 toyota

Is it possible that you have rain sensing wipers? They were an option on some 1992 toyota models.

Posted on Jan 30, 2011

  • 324 Answers

SOURCE: when is raining and i

Change your distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires. This should be enough to prevent stalling in the rain.

When these components wear out, the problem is first noted when driving in the rain. If they are not changed, eventually the car will not start, even in good weather.

Posted on Jun 09, 2011

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I ask a question on what is the drive cycle to reset obd for toyota2005 rav4


Step One: How to Prepare Your Vehicle
  • Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
  • The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
  • The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
  • The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.
Step Two: The Cold Start
  • Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
  • Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion-not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.
Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip
  • After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
  • Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
  • When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
  • Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.
  • Step Four: More City Driving
    • After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
    • Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
    • Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.
    Step Five: Have your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified
    • Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
    • If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.

Feb 21, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to do the drive cycle on a 1996 nissan pathfinder


How to Perform a Basic Drive Cycle


Step One: How to Prepare Your Vehicle

  • Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
  • The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
  • The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
  • The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.
Step Two: The Cold Start
  • Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
  • Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion-not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.
Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip
  • After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
  • Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
  • When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
  • Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.
Step Four: More City Driving
  • After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
  • Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
  • Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.
Step Five: Wave your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified
  • Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
  • If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.
  • If your monitors are not ready, please click here for more information.

May 26, 2016 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2004 durango. The power mirrors, power locks, interior lights and alarm control all stopped working. Can someone help??


1st im sure the alarm stopped working because the power locks dont work (feedback issue) next on some models water from rain or car washes gets down inisde doors and shorts out electric devices in door , with that many things out im sure your gonna find a fuse blown in your panel , but i'll further bet that new fuse will go again next rain as well .

Feb 10, 2015 | 2004 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

Loss of engine power/transmission 2001 chevy tahoe over 65 mph


Sound's as though a previous owner installed a speed governor so that the engine would not exceed the nationwide 55-65 mph speed limit average. This most likely was a company owned vehicle or owned by someone concerned about speeding ticket's or excessive speed by a teenage driver. It can be uninstalled by an experienced mechanic. Unless this poses a problem while driving on an interstate, you may wish to leave it as is.

Aug 03, 2014 | 2001 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

Volvo through a puddle


Go to autozone,they will scan for free and tell you want is wrong.

May 26, 2013 | 2000 Volvo S80

2 Answers

Runs poorly when its wet outside


Sounds like your distributor cap is loose. It's likely getting water in it when you drive through water.

Mar 04, 2013 | 2000 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

Just had a lot of rain. Water was leaking into


You'll probably find that the alarm control unit got wet - it is sometimes located under the drivers or passengers seat, or under the kickpanels/dash - You may find that it dries up and works OK, or never works right again - I'd recommend fixing the leak first, then moving on to the alarm system... I'd be cautious with introducing H20 to the alarm control unit, as they can disable the vehicle from starting or running...

Aug 30, 2009 | 2003 Acura 3.2TL

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2005 Ford Focus - Traction light stays and car beings to hesitate


sounds like to me that moisture is getting in a wheel speed sensor , I woudl check to see if any of the insulation on the wires is rubbed off

Dec 27, 2008 | 2005 Ford Focus

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