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You will need to provide a little more info before someone can assist - when does it make the noise? All the time, only under acceleration, when turning left, etc? Can you locate it to the front or rear of the engine or to a specific component? There are mechanic stethoscopes that help with this. Can you describe the sound? A squeel, knocking, grinding? Good luck!
wow, no year, nor engine or transmission option stated,wow.
use a stethoscope, the electronic is 1/10 th the cost
steelman makes them cheap. buy walfart head phones (nice) muffs
for like $5
and hear pins drop.
learn to use a stethoscope.
and post all the complex modes the sound happens
in 2wd, or 4wd or both
in any gear
when? and when not.
a real mech can drive your for 5min an all that is known. fast
here on the web you have to say it.
hot , cold engine ,both , moving and not, any rpm. or just 1.????????
get help, find a engine man,. that can use a stethoscope ($5) well
drop accessory belts to see if sound stops
pry in exhaust header below manifold does sound change or stop>?
any lever , even a broom handle, as one.
lever other parts on engine, intake clamps and braces.
lever all extrernals, if still noise, its inside the engine.
and the stethoscope is only $5 and will TELL you it is.
First, your English is fine - better than many people whose primary language is English. I watched the youtube video and although the noise is not easy to identify, it does sound like a metal gear or roller noise. You said that you replaced the timing belt, but did you replace the belt tensioner? Also, you replaced the head, but did you replace the camshaft? I would suggest that you purchase an automotive stethoscope (similar to a doctor's stethoscope) and try to determine exactly where the noise is coming from. I can tell that the noise is coming from something that moves at the same rate as the engine RPMs, so that eliminates many items such as the manifolds that do not move. If you have power steering, check the power steering pump. Another possibility that could be the source is the flywheel and starter area. Sorry to hear you're having this problem and that you spent a lot of money unsuccessfully trying to fix it. Give the stethoscope a try and see if you can localize the noise. Good luck.
Could be a bad hydraulic lash adjuster. Use a mechanics stethoscope to find from which head it comes. Then you will have to remove the valve cover from that side (cold engine) and feel each adjuster if its spongy. They should all be hard. You will need to rotate the crankshaft with a socket on the balancer bolt to be sure that each valve is closed at a time.
WELL BLACK SMOKE AND KNOCKING CAN BE CAUSE BY RESTRICTED AIR FILTER FAULTY .INJECTION PUMP IT HAS INTERNAL FAILURE OR INJECTION PUMP TIMING OFF.USE A MECHANIC STETHOSCOPE SAME THING DOCTOR USE BUT IT HAS A LONG PROBE PICKS SOUNDS YOU CAN HEAR ENGINE NOISES.FAULTY VALVES AND FAULTY FUEL INJECTORS.YOU CAN GO TO SEARS BUY ONE.PLACE IT NEAR YOUR DIESEL INJECTION PUMP WHILE ENGINE RUNNING IF PUMP FAULTY YOU CAN HEAR IT USING A STETHOSCOPE.
I assume you mean low idle speed 500 rpm. Genarally a tapping noise comes from the valve train, and a knocking noise comes from the crankshaft connecting rods. The way that a mechanic will narrow it down is to use a mechanics stethoscope. You can get one pretty cheaply at an auto parts store. Put the metal end of the scope on a part of the engine and listen for noise. On the other hand, if your car is idling at 5000 rpm, it would also be making ALOT of noise.