Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check the vacuum line, check the map senor and idle speed sendor, check to make sure your getting the right fuel pressure at the engine. check all fuse and relay for proper operation.
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
SOURCE: Toyota Land cruiser. Will not
if the diesel does not start on the starter mtr, are you tow-starting it?
There are a couple of other bits of info required. I say that, because if the engine isn't turning over fast enough on the str mtr then it will not start. If it has got the cranking speed, then the injector pump isn't getting enough fuel to pump to the injectors.
However, that theory is null and void if the engine fires with a 'bump / tow' start
QUICK INITIAL TEST:
Remove the cap from the fuel tank.
Slacken the OUTLET fuel pipe union on the Fuel Lift Pump.If unsure trace the fuel inlet pipe back from the fuel injection pump.
Have a helper crank the engine and check for fuel coming from the slackened union.
No fuel or little fuel? Problem between fuel tank and lift pump, or Lift pump is faulty.
Check fuel supply pre-filter for trash etc. Also check vent hole in the fuel tank cap, it must be clear. If no vent in fuel cap, check tank and ensure that if a vent is fitted that it is CLEAR of any obstructions.
Have you checked the throttle position on the start sequence?
What diesel engine is in the vehicle? It should have a 'lift' pump to bring the fuel from the tank to the injection pump.If the 'lift' pump is not working correctly, or if there is an air leak between the fuel tank and the 'lift' pump then it will not be pulling sufficent fuel from the tank to the injection pump. The injection pump merely compresses the fuel and sends it to the injectors. If the vehicle was allowed to run out of fuel, was refilled and then will not start when cranking, you may have air in the injection pump.
Do you know the difference between a DPA injection pump and an inline injection pump? DPA pump works like a distributor in a gas engine. They are also notoriously fickle as regards fuel requirements / supply.
As you are in a somewhat remote location I would advise you to get a length of hose, suitable for transferring diesel from a 1 gal container to the engine. Locate the fuel "lift' pump and slacken the pipe union on the outlet side, (the feed to the injector pump") Go to the primary fuel filterand slacken the inlet fuel pipe union, but do NOT remove the pipe from the primary filter .. Remove the pipe from the LIFT pump outlet, and be careful with it. Depending on the type of union, you can either slide an end of the length of hose which you have on hand, over the pipe end and clamp it with a screw type hose clamp, (Jubilee type). As you have already slackened the fuel pipe at the primary fuel filter. Move the fuel inlet pipe at the lift pump, with now attached hose untill it is clear of local obstructions.
Now, using a funnel, or whatever, pour a cup or two of diesel into the hose from the LIFT pump end. Secure the hose in a high vertical position, (use the bonnet / hood and a piece of sash cord / mechanic's style wire). Go to the inlet fuel pipe at the primary fuel filter and check id fuel is coming out of the union which you had slackened. If fuel is apparent, secure the union.
Now, the usual way to do the next step is with a helper, it makes it a lot easier. It also depends upon whether you have a DPA type injection pump or an inline.
If you have a DPA pump, (identified by the fact that all the injector lines are situated around the body of the pump at one end, hence the Distributor Pump Assy name.) then you will have to bleed the pump assembly. There are normally TWO bleed screws on the unit if it is of CAV origin. One is normally located on the front side of the pump casing quite evidently visible. It is small, I think 3/16 wrench, or the metric equivalent. However, there is a smaller bleed screw on the pump casing usually located on the engine block side..
That is the one which people tend to miss, and end up having great difficulty in bleeding the pump correctly.
If you cannot find the smaller bleed screw, do not despair. Open the FRONT bleed screw and instruct your helper to start feeding diesel fuel down the hose. Do NOT remove the bleed screw completely to speed up the bleeding process. You will find, as a lot of people have, that you will drop it, and have a hard job finding it, as it seems to be reluctant to fit back into the threaded hole it came from!
Plus if you just slack it, you will not run the risk of cross-threading it when you try to re-fit it.
Ok, have a gallon jug or similar, securely sitting on the wing / mudguard /fender filled with diesel on the lift pump side where you have secured your hose.Ensure that the hose fitted to the fuel line to the main fuel filters and hence to the injector pump is fully primed and then place it into the gallon jug of fuel on the fender /mudguard etc.
Get your assistant to crank the engine, and it should start. You now know that the lift pump / line tfrom fuel tank to lift pump is definetly faulty.
You might well check the fuel line Pre-filter which is normally situated between the fuel tank and the lift pump. If it's full of sediment, it will not allow free flow of fuel. Likewise check the main fuel filters for blockage, plus check a fuel /water separator if fitted.
Is the engine fitted with heater / glow plugs? If it is, and they are not working, the engine will not start even on a warm day. Check the wiring to them etc. There should be an indicator in the cab to show if they are on or not.
If they do not work, and you have checked them with a meter etc, Disconnect the wiring to them. Get a can of Diesel start, which consists primarily of ether and have your helper crank the engine. Whilst the engine is cranking, spray a SMALL amount of the starting fluid into the main air cleaner. If the engine starts, well and good. If you do not have starting fluid, spray a little WD40 onto a piece of rag and hold it in the main
air inlet cleaner. If all is well the engine will fire up. Do NOT use gasoline / petrol, as a starting aid, the engine may very well give a very large bang and self distruct!! Do not jam the rag into the air inlets the engine will ingest it and you will have a BIG problem. Do all the above AT the MAIN air cleaner.
Checking for fuel at the injectors entails SLOWLY slackening the injector farthest from the injection pump, whilst someone cranks the engine. The injector must be tightened when the fuel is under pressure, other wise air will be sucked in and that cylinder may well have a "miss'. just a reminder::))
Last but not least! Check the DPA pump and ascertain which type of stop control is fitted. Some have an electric solenoid so check the wiring to it and ensure that it has a full operating stroke. Disconnecting the wiring to the off /on solenoid when the engine is stopped, then, turning the ign on and touching the wire to the connector on the pump should result in an audible click. Some of those DPA pumps on / off solenoids work in reverse. The power is applied to the solenoid when the engine shutdown switch is activated. Through a relay operated by engine oil pressure, the power is held to the solenoid long enough to shut the engine down. With the engine shut down, oil pressure drops and the relay is opened and power is disconnected from the solenoid. Likewise check if it is a mechanical off/on cable operated lever. if it has worked loose etc, then it will hold the "no fuel' position when trying to start.
I hope this gives you something to work with. Before closing, are you aware that you could rig a 12V auto gasoline pump to supply fuel to either the lift pump or the main fuel filters if you find that the lift pump is indeed faulty but that obtaining a replacement locally may prove to be difficult. If you do fit a 12 V auto gas pump to the fuel system, you will be able to bleed the entire system at the DPA injection pump as the 12V pump will push the fuel all the way through the system. A word of warning on that issue, make sure the fuel return line from the DPA injection pump can handle the flow from the 12V gas pump. if not then you will have to fit a pressure reducer in the outlet side of the 12V pump. they are sold in auto stores, and some pumps actually have them fitted.
Posted on Jan 25, 2011
ITS THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE ACTUATOR,THE ARE 4 THROTTLE POSITION SENSORS ON IT. IT WORKS IN CORRELATION WITH THE PEDAL POSITION SENSOR ON YOUR ACCELERATOR PEDAL. IF THERE IS A DISCREPENCY BETWEEN THE TWO SIGNALS ITS DISPLAYS THAT MSG. IM CURRENTLY FIXING BROKEN WIRES IN A WIRING HARNESS ON A 2005 NAVIGATOR WITH THE SAME ISSUE.TAKE IT TO A GOOD SHOP TO BE DIAGNOSED.THOMAS IS A TARD WHO KNOWS NOTHING ABOUT AUTOMOTIVE
Posted on Dec 17, 2011
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