Question about Jeep Commander
Yesterday, we lost our serpentine belt - I replaced it easy enough, and then the truck was "ticking" so - I pulled the belt off and, sure enough, the water pump appeared to be the culprit (the pulley was loose - like the bearings were worn). So - I purchased a new water pump, carefully removed the old one (while documenting the fastener locations), and installed the new one. Re-installed the belt, and it started right up...ticking gone...all appeared to be fine. Since I lost some of the coolant during the installation (I drained it from the drain valve on the bottom of the radiator / driver's side) - I replaced the coolant lost ... I wanted to see that all was normal once the engine reached operating temperature, and possibly sucked in some more coolant from the reservoir...which it did. I drove it around the block - and again - all seemed perfectly normal. As I was pulling back into my driveway - the check engine light began blinking. I backed up so that the vehicle would be on a flat surface, and shut it off...waited a bit - and checked the oil - and it was right on the money - nothing wrong there. Now it won't start (it feels like it's about to - but - just won't catch - and I have to get it off of the sidewalk and back onto my driveway, at least). What could have caused this issue? The truck's got about 180,000 miles on it - so - it could just be coincidence - but - I really would like to know what I did, if anything, that caused this issue. Anyone who can help - I would GREATLY appreciate it! Is there anything that I could have done during the water pump replacement that would have cause any internal issues??? Please give me any advice you have...thanks! David
The side bottle is not for filling a RAD.
your error was , not filling the actual radiator via its top cap
and burping the engine of all air.
run engine dead cold with rad cap off, and get all the air out.
run it until it expands a bit and sarts to over fill cap neck.
now cap it off and drive 2 times (around block)
let cool 2 times and make darn sure the rad is 100% full
some cars can take 2 cycles cold to hot. to burp clean.
no changes, since 1920 to now.
personally, i get my block full and rad 100% full of 50% AF.
the side tank is just for expansion loss. ( and recovery)
Posted on Dec 11, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Here are a few choices. If equipped with A/C the air could ice up the compressor and stop the a/c clutch, shredding a belt. Width of belt pulley, if narrow pulley has fat belts and fat pulley has narrow belts, then possible to shred. Has anyone cranked down the damper on the crankshaft? If the bolt comes loose or the woodruff key is worn you could get a wobble from the crank.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
The oil in the spark plug may cause the car to run sluggish. The oil may prevent the spark plug from firing correctly or cause you to burn oil. You may want to replace the oil seals around the spark plug holes by removing the valve cover and you should be able to change the oil seals underneath the cover. While at it check the engine for loose wire connections and loose vacuum hoses.
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
if poor performance was noticed right off the bat, the timing belt is not timed properly. this will cause lack of power, rough idle, pre ignition(little noisey), and rich exhaust.youre going to need to first, find a friend or someone whom you trust to do your automotive work.second youre going to need to start over by tearing it all down systematically and taking note of anything done wrong. third find reliable information on the timing marks for this vehicle. i hope for your sake nothing is broken. let me know how this turns out, ill be happy to help further if you need.
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
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