Question about Nissan Cars & Trucks
If the battery is actually good and does not have a ( bad cell ) then I would be looking at a bad ground wire.
Posted on Nov 24, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: needs jump
Check the battery for charge and alternator for power (free at Autozone) It might be deposited/rusted contacts on alternator and battery to reduce the electric current to battery from altrnator so battery just draining out. Also if it is very cold overnight (less than 0 F) battery lost the cranking power.
Please kindly let me know if the information provided was usefull for you or you need more info
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
u either have a shorted cell in the battery or the system has a current draw like a glove box light being left on, try disconnecting the battery the next time you leave it, if it starts ok then u have a current draw and need to find the source of that draw.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
First of all, disconnect the negative cable from the battery and charge the battery up to a full charge. When that is done, check the battery voltage with a volt meter; you should see about 12.5 to 13.5 volts DC. Next, reconnect the negative battery cable and make sure all cables and connections are clean and tight at the battery and the starter. Start the car and check the voltage at the battery again with the car running. You should see about 13 to 14.5 volts DC which confirms that the alternator is doing it's job.
Next, check to see if your brake lights are on when no one is pushing on the brake. If they are on, then that is what's draining your battery.
If that is not the problem and your car battery continues to go dead after a couple of days of sitting, you have some sort of "parasitic load". You will probably need an automotive electrical expert to find the parasitic load.
If you find that the brake lights are on when no one is pushing on the brake, you most likely have a little plastic piece broken that mounts near the top of the brake pedal shaft. I believe it is called a "brake pedal stopper" and it is supposed to push against the brake light switch when there is no pressure applied to the brake pedal. When it breaks, you should find the remnants on the driver's floor area. You can get a new one from the dealer for a couple of bucks. You may want to use a flashlight to check things out near the top of the brake pedal shaft to see where the brake light switch is supposed to be pushed by the "stopper".
I hope this helps.
Good luck, Mark
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
Charge your battery to full charge, next if you have a test light hook up the negative cable to the battery then with the test light touch one end to the positive battery cable and one to the positive post, is the light on? if yes is it bright? if yes Check your glove box and remove the glove box light check the light again, is it still bright? then check the rear cargo lamp and see if it's on if not, remove the bulb anyway and check the light one more time. if the light is still bright disconnect the light from the positive cable and the battery and then disconnect the positive wire to the alternator once it is disconnected do the light test again. Hook light to post and to the positive cable, is the light still bright? if no It's the alternator diode trio regulator Bridge, if it's still bright hook up the alternator wire again and then with the hood up and the hood light disconnected or the bulb pulled, locate the fuse panel and remove one fuse at a time, while you watch the light be sure to have the bulb out of the dome light so it does not give you a false reading. Now pull one fuse at a time if the light goes out thats where you have a problem on that circuit, on the fuse panel lid it will have it marked as what it is you can let me know what circuit it is and I can tell you how to check that circuit or if you prefer you can go to http://www.alldatadiy.com and buy a subscription for your car and it will have all the test and wiring information you want.
If you find the alternator is the culprit it could even be the brushes have fallen out one side or the other and is shorting if the battery is fully charged take it to auto zone and they can test the alternator output, if it does not put out 13.5 to 14.5 volts and 60 or 90 amps and 900 RPMS you know the alternator is bad just buy a replacement because rebuilding your alternator would cost as much buying a new or rebuilt alternator that has had everything done to it.
Now for the check engine light while your at auto zone you can have them pull the codes for your computer and that will help give you an ideal if the two problems are related. If the battery voltage drops below 10.5 volts the check engine light will come on because the computer is detecting low voltage if you run it on low voltage for very long you may burn out the computer. Hope this helps and thanks for using fix-ya
Posted on Jan 17, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks for taking the time and all the great advise. I changed the alt. and have had no problems thus far. "
You should check for voltage draws when the vehicle is off... Disconnect the negative battery termal, Pull dome light fuse,and connect a light or volt meter between the two.
common offenders are alternator diodes. These fail and cause drain.
Then you have to check, circuit by circuit, until you find the offending system.
Also, before doing anything, disconnect negative terminal and see if the battery is still fully charged after a few days...
Posted on May 24, 2010
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